Henryk

If you have them, you may want to try the plastic 3 oz. solo cups (it works because you can pour soy cool). They gives almost a similar effect with soy but not as perfect. I use the cups to harden up left over wax to get it out of my pots. (The paper ones give you a rustic look btw).

When I do my first I'm doing them that way I really like how its a single color scheme (and color/fo are good for the holidays.)

I think I got a few of those pin holes in my first 1343 rustic - are rustics supposed to have some of them or not? What usually causes them? Sorry to highjack thread, but this is the first pic I've seen that shows them perfectly.

Mine does too - and I still have some I bought a while back, but someone posted they were having problems at http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1592 .

topofmurrayhill, thanks for that great info - I figured you would know about this. Not that I use it, but was just curious if the brand "Vaseline" is the exact same stuff that you can buy in bulk at some major candle supply places or is there some sort of different process that is done to make it an additive?

The next soy waxes I'm going to try are the ELs - both the classic and the millennium blends. I keep hearing from the "EL people" how good the scent throw is so figured I'd try that next to see firsthand. I know, it would mean trading a repour for frosting I guess if I switched (again).

I'm getting a bit better with the new Eco but still get a bit of crack by the wick and a small sink hole under that, so investigate if you need do a repour on these (you may not have to, but I seem to have to).

Kerry, I would love to hear your opinions/results on the new CB when you have the time.

Jeana, the older version got wet spots pretty fast, the new version has better adhesion AND throw, the only thing I have to do with the new is a very small repour. Naturally, this is all my opinion. What works for some just doesn't seem to work for others. (I'm trying not to hear you about Eco 135 as I haven't used that since I started - and didn't know what I was doing - so I'm due for another round!)

I use regular seamless molds for mine, but you want to cool them slow. Stick a box on them or else put them in your oven (don't turn it on). Some people heat their molds first (slow cooling them seems to be more important).

http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1109546860;start=

This was with palm3 (similar type of effect as Astorlite F). Many people here use it so maybe they will answer or else you can do a search (on the archive section).

You may want to go to the archives and read about it first. Search for "vaseline". Can also search for "crisco". Just so you know, I've not done this, just saw it in posts and there are a few candle supply houses that sell it in bulk. I have no idea what the outcome would be.

No doctor so can't help there, but I'm not a fan of strong scents either. I know I can smell things right away, like a candle burning if I just walk into a room while DW does not. I make plenty of unscented ones candles for myself.

The air purifiers that actually work are expensive - the one I want is roughly 500 dollars (no, its not that famous one). I only have a cheap one running now but I don't know how much good it does. I do this as a hobby, I probably couldn't do this as day-to-day work unless it was in some sort of class 1 cleanroom!

What I do with my pillars, tapers, and votives is shrink wrap them. I just buy the shrink wrap bags because they are cheap and do them that way. If I were selling them I would have to invest in a machine to make them more presentable. Not only doesn't it keep the scent from infecting everything else, it keeps them neat so you can stack them and keeps the dust off.

Chris, I think you posted the same thing on TSR or the Dish (or some place) and I posted the opposite. You never have to poke your BW tapers, and I almost always do (or at least I need to refill). I used different BW from reputable places, so always wanted to know your secrets. What type of molds do you use and how hot do you pour (if I may ask).

TIA.

Right now I'm all over the board. I used to do only soy (when I was "brainwashed" by all the hype) but then got fed up with things like frosting and opaqueness and not being able to do things like rustics/mottles/hurricanes, etc.), so now I'm looking at soy/para blends (the "V" waxes from IGI). Even some pure paraffin waxes - like the mottling container blends. I didn't like the veg waxes for pillars (I like BW, but thats not veg). I'm sure I'll continue to use everything (including BW, Bayberry and Palm waxes). Regarding wicks, I've used LX wicks in soy for nearly 2 years.

Go by weight. Start at 5% up to 30%. The candle I saw it done with I think was J300. Now, that is a blend wax that is mostly soy from what I heard, but is the percentage of petrolatum against the paraffin in it or against the whole thing. That I don't know.

Another idea, though I've never used it, is IGI 4627 comfort blend (its a paraffin blend though). Its supposed to be really soft, like a really thick Vaseline (smallest you can get is a 25 bag though). There are people who mix this with soy or use it alone. Do a search in the archives section on comfort - you'll get tons of hits.

Oops - sorry, that was Holly who tried the 6006 - my fault.

My results with the new and old versions of CBA are at http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2196 . The new version's cold throw is much better than the old. I've been burning the 6006 (and other paraffins) so I haven't really formed an opinion of the hot throw of the new CBA. I'll burn another one or two this week though. Like you I have too much on my plate right now. I am using LX wicks, which burn really nice in the CBAs. I have noticed something though. If you power burn these for more than a few hours the meltpool gets REALLY deep because it burns much easier than regular soy. The new seems to burn just a hair more easier than the old. I don't believe its enough to change your wicking though, as I tried going down a size on the LXs and it just wasn't hot enough. I have not tried a hotter series of wicks in it, but I bet you'd have to wick down more with something like a cotton. Hot throw is determined by the meltpool, so as long as you don't have a huge flame tunneling down the container, I would choose the type of wick that gives you a steady flame, nice pool, and slow burn.

I tried both vybar and BW in the old blend - and posted MHO in the thread at http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1113016238;start=

HTH

I saw a candle like that at a distributor - the trick was petrolatum (aka petroleum jelly). Can be used up to 30% from what I read. Its just a different from of petroleum hydrocarbons (wax).

(Open a NEW jar of Vaseline, the top should be smooth and shiny, stick your finger in it - something like this?)

Thanks exactly what I think. The top is too smal to double wick and if you spaced them out for the mid point the flames would be too close to the glass above them. I may just use them for candy corn or some stupid thing! Could also use them for room fresheners, etc.

Eugenia, your stuff always look great. Thanks for the sharing the formula. I always get confused however when people say "fisher trop". Did you use the luster crystals or the translucent crystals or something else?

TIA

Did anyone ever wick the large pumpkin jars. These have an opening of a little over 2.75" but at the largest point in the middle its nearly 4.75". I may use them for something else if not, but if you have been even somewhat succesful and have some tips I'd be very grateful.

Thanks.

This was mentioned on the old veg. board so if you want more comments on it you can search for threads there. (The person who did the tests is on the old board as "soybased"). I personally thought it was a great because of the pics. (Check out the soy pillar tests - yuk).

Here's a link to a discussion which morphs into who makes what soy brands. (Especially see lovesoy's post on page 2): http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1108320843;start=

HTH

I haven't used the other ecos for at least a year and a half - so, didn't have enough experience recent to comment. The archives should help though

Understood.

I keep mentioning cold throw because that is really what I've been going on. If you have say, WYW's Hibiscus & Thai Palm. Pour one of the old and one of the new even at just 4%. Or say, KY's Sugar Cookie. You should immediately see the cold throw on the new is stronger after it sets up.

I'll try to burn some of each after I finish some other testing as I've got too many things going on right now - for health reasons in my small place I can't burn tons of things at once My concern was trying to get it to be a one-pour, but I know some other folks have the new stuff, perhaps they can chime in?

Sorry I can't be more help on that point ...

In my math, there is an error if you call one jar 10oz and one 14oz but they both hold 12 oz. He bought 4 cases if I remember reading that right so I can see why he's upset. (Not attacking you or anything).

I got that information at http://www.igiwax.com/downloads/pis/6006.pdf under "product description" and "benifits".

I'm sure I'll never achieve optimal conditions though at my place.

Agree about the metric system, but, in Jim's case it doesn't matter since the published specs where in error. Calling something .4 liter when its actually .35 would be the same thing.

I do fill mine up as much as to the point where I can still get the lid on. As far as the votivo-type (tumbler) containers mentioned earlier - same thing this time. Hole by the wick of the new, but not in the old. And again, better throw with the new than the old. The CBA new, old, and 6006 I'm finding all have their good points, so its all in what features are important to someone.