rjdaines

The only thing I can answer is that measurements are done by weight, I weigh out my FO. Figuring out percentages of ounces confuses me so I convert everything to grams. I'll leave it to others to answer your other questions as I have not worked with that wax. I use HTP wicks in some of my soy container candles and have no problems with container 3 inches and under.

Thats one of the reasons why I'm testing with the CD-6 wicks was because of your thread.

Cool, the CD-6s will work and would be my back up if I didn't have and CD-5s. Now, if I can just find a single wick for the darn container.

Good Luck with the test.

The taller neck is safer but there is still the issue of adhering the tab to the floor of the container. I am seeing this fail more and more as I test (Tacky Wax). I know Stella is a fan of the high temp adhesive (PermaTex?) she uses and that may be the best solution. I won't use it in my testers as I will rewick those. So no matter how tall the neck is, if the wick draws wax from below due to adhesion failure it will still burn.

Would love to see a picture, I've been testing 464 with an 8 oz apothecary (4 inch diameter) and am double wicking with CD5s. The Autumn Pear sounds interesting too.

I've got 20 pounds of CB-A still. I won't waste my time making 100% CB-A candles with it but I am wondering what to do with it. Mixing a little (10%?) in with 464 to help with the occasional rough top? I might be better off adding USA but based on the product description it may already have 2% of that.

Darn, I keep doing that... It's those built-in keyboard errors.

I started with CD-A and switched to 464. What did you not like about it? It has a much better HT and my tops in the 8 oz apothecary jars have been great. My tumblers will are a little rough by I am guess a change in pour temp might fix that. The only other all soy wax I see mentioned on the board is C3 but I am not switching and starting over at this point.

LOL, I swear my keyboard has embedded software to make spelling errors and typos.

Not be be a "downer" here but I continue to be disappointed by the throw of CB-A. I love it's texture but I'm not making candles based on FO compatibility, to my mind that is like the tail wagging the dog.

This is sad to see as I was just thinking of starting a candle-based business.

What does "temper my wax" mean?

So long as my tops initially look nice I am happy. Some colors seems worse than others for frosting (reds, browns) and I try to avoid those but as for wet spots, I am not too bothered by them.

IGI 6006 seems to have good reviews and ratings (at least at Peaks). I think you are going to be asked a lot more questions in order to try to find an answer to the lack of HT. Gather your info now, like container and size, amount of fragrance used, wicking and melt pool size. How does the burn look, strong flame, weak flame, mushrooming?

Yes the doubled wicked CD-5 did get a little hot at the end of the burn but until I can find a single wick that doesn't look like it is growing 3 heads I will have to stick with this combination. I am going to send out a tester to a friend and I will ask for feedback and pics, container heat will be one of them.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Reducing the FO percentage seems logical. How bad is "badly"?

The link below shows a wick that is mushrooming badly...

http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?98059-Why-are-these-lx-series-wicks-mushrooming-so-hard!!!!

Photos would be helpful.

Yes dropping to 6% was my first thought but why if I can double wick at 8%? How bad, three large wings off of the top of the wick, I've made fun of wicks at BBW with less mushroom Should teach me to keep my mouth shut :lipsrseal

I've tried a HTP 1212 before which didn't produce a FMP so I might revisit HTP wicks and try 1312 and maybe 126.

For these 4" containers I have found the either two HTP 83s or two CD5s work well. I have also tried to single wick this with a single CD wick. I have tried 18, 20 and 22. The CD18 didn't produce a FMP and the CD22 was too not. The CD20 seems to be a good match but both the 20 and the 22 mushroom badly with 8% FO. Not sure where to go at this point with the single wick idea but at least double wicking works.

RJ,

I see you and PamW are both in Arizona. Pam is in Phoenix, I'm in Tucson. I'd be glad to send you a 3" diameter pillar or two for you to burn and see how they work and some wicks. I'm sure Pam will help as well. Most of my stuff is paraffin, but I did build a few palm pillars. The palm is the hardest. I don't have notes on the palm because they were built last year and I lost all my notes after that. (new system is secure) I think I'm using #3 or #4 square braid in my palm pillars. 3" x 4" = one pound.

I am in Florence so about half way between both of you. Thank you for your generous offer and I may take you up on it but for now I will plug along a little bit longer. I have the wax and just need to pour more candles; I learn a little more with each one. You and Pam have helped so much already, I will get some of the cotton core, flat and square braid wicks and plug ahead.

Another blow out. I'm thinking dental floss may be next, LOL

On the 3 inch pillars, I use 4625 with no additives. 9 percent FO load and dye. The wick is a cotton core. 44-32-18 C

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RJ, I have a ton of wicks, mostly because I buy in spools. The cotton ones that I mentioned are pretabbed and I have several hundred. I'd be glad to mail a few for testing if you want to try some different sizes. I have a small amount of 5/0 square as well.

Thanks for the offer Eric but I'd have no idea what to ask for as I don't understand the naming system of those wicks. Is there a web site you could point me to to get a better understanding of them, any one sell a sample pack? Great looking candles by the way. I really need to melt some of the 4625 I have but I've been so stubborn about getting the HL wax to work. Oh well, soon it will be gone, just 10 more pounds to use up.

Strange things pop into my mind as I make candle, like this question. If I remelt a candle that has already been cured with a FO, does it need to cure again? When people say the FO "binds" with the wax molecules, just how tight is that bonding? Which I knew more about the chemistry off all this.

The 5/0 is the one I don't have...figures, huh?!! I saw the 12ply at Candlewic so will probably order some..but then of course I can't place an order for just wicks.

Did you order the 12 ply? If not, I may but I haven't ordered anything for Candlewic before. My candle is not looking good with the 15 ply, it should spill any time now. However, I did learn about the twisting so that is a good thing.

Me too, post photos. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, it communicate container shape, color, wick positioning and such.

Ooooh, I hate hang up and am always tempted to using a slightly larger wick to eliminate it but ONLY in candles for myself and these are in non-straight-walled containers.

I live in the SW desert also, ladies, and have the same problem with drafts once the air goes on. Get yourself a couple hurricanes, the taller ones that are open at both ends. Burn your pillars in those and the draft won't reach them. Mine accomodate up to 6" pillars.

Good idea and I have considered it but does the enclosed space trap heat in and change the burn characteristics? These 2 inchers seem was way to sensitive to the environment. But, yes, the enclosures are a great idea. Thanks

What I really, really, really, really Did I say really hate is when I pour a pillar & realize I forgot to plug the hole and wax runs out of the mold

Ha Ha Ha, done that...

Most consumer grade thermometers are not as precise as you would think. Check the info that came with it and you may see +/- 2 or 3 or even more degrees Fahrenheit. An accurate thermometer will come with a calibration curve as it will have varying degrees of accuracy through out the range in which it is used. A good digital thermometer may have that curve as part of it software and auto-correct. If it has a NIST-traceable certificate, then it includes all of the information to meet today's stringent accreditation demands, government specifications, and ISO 9000 requirements. This information includes serial number, certificate number, model number, calibration test equipment, equipment serial number, equipment calibration due date, NIST test number, unit accuracy, uncertainty, unit test conditions, test points, individual unit's specific test date, unit's next calibration due date, tester's name, and signature of the metrology manager. Chances are you don't have one of these and if you do the calibration is not up do date. The candy thermometers people are mass produced, the temp card is glued on with not an undo amount of care and are not meant to be all that accurate. Oven thermometers are notoriously inaccurate. Infra-red are good but still not as accurate as people think. Digital implies accuracy in people's minds but some of most accurate thermometers are still the old mercury glass bulb ones (which I don't recommend using).

All I mean to say is don't stress over the exact temp you are using but, rather, be consistent is using the same temp on the same device. Don't keep switching between different thermometers, use the same one and same temp that it records when you achieve the cooled results you are looking for.