bramoncada

I pour 464 and only get that with certain FO's... and I just wont sell them or I move onto a different brand but same scent to see if I can get different results.

I pour in glass containers though, which might make a difference because I can wick up slightly... where in tin it would get too hot. I have seen that crinkley top quite a bit with tin containers.

Trust me, you can work with it... it just takes time, time, and more time. Testing, testing, and more testing. The only thing I add to my GB is coconut oil, 1 tsp PP. It helps with throw, and I think it helps with the tops too. Any soy wax thats cooled very fast is going to have those problems... but as I said in your other post, I've never had a single customer even mention it. And if they did I would say the same thing I've said before... its just the characteristics of soy wax, and I think its worth working with!

IM gonna try the coconut oil today... im pretty sure they sell it at the local grocer.

Hi Guys

I would like your help here. I am going to try to put a soy data base together. If any of you are willing? This is information I would like to collect first. Even if someone has given the same answer for the same kind of wax please answer with your information also. I want as many opinions as possible.

Type of Soy or Soy Blend you use?

Additives if any?

Preferred dyes?

Preferred wick (Not sizes)?

Pouring temp you recommend?

What you do to prevent frosting?

What you do to prevent rough tops?

Do you do anything to prevent wet spots?

I want to put something together in the Tips and FAQ Database and Archive everyone that helps will have their names listed at the bottom of the data base. Credit will be give where credit is due.

whats your setup for soy tin cables vicky?:smiley2:

i posted a thread about the crud build up on the sides of my tins as well as the very dry, volcanic rock look post burn on the surface of my wax.. after doing some research i'm thinking of possibly switching to palm wax.. Ive heard that the throw is much better and i wont have the aesthetic post burn problems anymore... what do you think?:*super banana*

Just my two cents' on the subject: it's been my experience with soy that if my wick isn't large enough, I don't get a decent melt pool and do get the wacky crud.

Its in a fairly small tin and the wick is what was reccomended to me by the people at candlescience. So im not sure if its the which but i feel like maybe if the wick was bigger it would put a little more heat out to melt that back into the pool.. hmmmm.. but with other waxes it doesnt do that with the same setup.. so then again it must be the wax.

that is just what soy does... nothing to worry about.... soy is not perfect nor should it be... all part of the soy experience...

i also am having that "crud buildup in my tin"... i may try the PALM STEARIC ACID

Just about every soy candle I burn looks like that.

We don't have the Palm wax you all have. I checked every where and no one in the states carries the non crystallizing Palm. Too bad.

I dont want to add too much stuff as i want the soy candle to be as pure as possible.. however.. what do you suggest as an additive to the wax to make it? i heard the stearic acid isnt all that great in soy wax... and you also suggest crystallizing or starburst ?? whats that mean? thanks!

i am testing my GB 464 soy candles out and im using a eco 14 wick... i burned my candle in its tin for about 6 hours straight yesterday to put it through a beating and when i blew it out and let it cool the result was ugly.. im not sure if any candle can stand the beating but it just looked ugly and i would be embarresed to even sell it to anybody. whats wrong?!