burnt_fingers

I recently bought a box of glue dots designed for adhering wick tabs. The problem is after pouring in the wax the dot looses it hold and the wick tab moves about in the container. I always clean glass containers with Dawn dishwashing liquid followed by a vinegar and hot water rinse to ensure any oily residue is removed. Anyone else have this problem? Solution?

Steve,

Thanks for the suggestion. I think that is the way I will go for this weekend project with the kids.

Thanks RedLady!

This weekend my kids want to make container candles. Does anyone have the formula for determining the amount of wax needed to fill a container based on it's dimensions? I had one somewhere, but I cannot locate it.

Did you call or email Peak's? I've found the quickest way to answer a question about a supplier's stuff is to contact them directly.

Thanks Stella1952 for your reply. I did just that this morning using their live chat. Got a quick answer and a suggestion for an alternative wick from what I had been using and best of all Peak sells it in bulk (spooled).

Blest2BAmerican,

Thank you for your reply. I find Swan's website to be confusing or at least cluttered.

Is it me or does Peak only sell pre-tabbed wicks? I was hoping to place an order without having to go to another source for wick. Please tell me missed the link. I wanting to buy RRD type wick.

Also, has anyone dealt with Swan Candle Supplies in WA? Being from CA I am trying to find the closest reliable source for candle supplies.

Thank you!

It is basically a Presto cooker converted. Here is a link to a smaller unit "how-to" on candletech website http://www.candletech.com/general-information/do-it-yourself-wax-melter/

Be very careful and watch your temperture setting. Be sure to use a thermometer as well. Some of these presto can go into the 400 degree range.

Ask the seller if there is a warranty. If it is a converted Presto, the manufacturer's warranty is void due to the unit being converted from its intended use.

Hi Valien,

A couple 2, 3 years ago my wife wanted a hobby we both could enjoy. When I was a kid my twin brother and I made candles and did very well selling them at shows my wife thought candles would be a good hobby for us to try. To make thinks easy we went the kit route. We got the parrafin wax starter kit at Candlewic. For us it was a good starting point. Getting started in candle making is not a difficult, but it does take time to figure certain combinations like wick size, wax type, color, and FO. So starter kits are a good way to go in my opinion.

ps. These days the candle making has been deligated to me with my wife telling me what at when to make them. lol I think it is her way of getting me away from my addiction, fly fishing.

You all are exactly like the fly fishing bb I belong to. Whenever some ask to 'show you tying bench' the responses ranges from total mess to everything in its place'. lol

Our work area is our kitchen. We, or should I say I, drag out the boxes from the garage take out what we need and when we, again more like I, are finished it all goes back in the boxes and stored in the garage. Did I mention I am also the ONE to put things away. Just in case my wife is reading this. Hint hint hint:laugh2:

Recently I have been making beeswax container candles. No wet spots so far. Beeswax does not contract as it cools as other wax types will do.

Welcome aboard from California.

Thanks for the tips. I'll have to give some of those a try and see which ones give me the most starbusts.

My wife once again wants me to make another candle. Why is it she loves candles, but I end up making them? lol Anyway, she likes the look of starburst palm. What I like to know is what you all are using to insulate your molds for a slow even cooling?

It's all about marketing. The vast majority of people who purchase candles have no clue as to how a candle should burn. I see this with fly fishing. Most professional tyers will tell you they tie to catch the buyer and not the fish. Fish don't care about imperfections.

I just looked at the Mann Lake website. They have some really nice molds. Thanks for the info.

Anyone use the aluminum seamless molds with beeswax? I read that beeswax does not contract like other waxes while cooling making seperation from the mold difficult if not impossible at times. Having tried my hand at beeswax container candles I wanted to go the next step and try pillars. Any and all tips would be appreciated.

Thank you.

You guys made me think of something: does soy wax go bad? Since it's a plant product does it get to a certain point it starts rotting, or going rancid?

Good question. I have been searching the internet, but nothing yet. I think I will email some of the manufacturers to see if I can get an answer.

For those of you who make candles for your personal use and/or as gifts, how much soy do you generally purchase when you make a buy? My wife an I tend to buy what we think we'll need at a given time. We have considered buying 50 to 100 lbs and just storing it, but in my mind that is a lot of soy that would not be consumed for a few years.

Thanks. I have read about containers breaking. These canning jars are on the heavy side so I am hoping they work. I am going to test them. Next set will be in tins.

My order for beeswax just arrived from Peak. I am ready to go, but need to know what is the recommended pouring temperature for beeswax? I will start off by making container candles to test with straight beeswax. The container is a Ball canning jar with a diameter of approximately 2.75 inches and a height of 3 inches.

I am considering switching from paraffin to soy for my wicked candles. Anyone with opinions of how difficult C-3 would be to wick compared to 4630?

Curious why are you considering the switch?

Stella1952,

Thanks for the copy of the bullseye.

I got so tired of eyeballing and trying the paper patterns.. I invested in a wick setter... Like 20 dollars and IMO it is well worth it!

Emily

Emily,

From what I have seen on the web, it seemed like a slow way to go. May be you can comment on this? My comment is based soley from what I saw in a still shot tutorial.

It seems there is an emphasis of centering the wick at the top of the container, but not alot of talk when it comes to centering the wick at the base of a container candle. I see that there are tools out on the market, but they seem to be an inefficient (read: slow) solution. Was wondering what some of you are doing to accomplish the centering of the wick at the base of a container? I have been eyeballing it and at times missed the mark in a bad way.