burnt_fingers

Thank you very much!

I wash my containers in the dishwasher with just hot water and 2 cups of vinegar. I use a Pyrex 2 cup measuring cup. The vinegar cuts the oils and residues on the containers and an added bonus removes the mineral build-up in your machine.

Thank you!

It's been a long while since my daughter and I have made candles (or visited this forum) and we need some supplies. Seems Peak in CO is no more??? Does anyone here know of suppliers in or near California that they found to be a great source for candle making supplies? We need wax and scents at the moment. Thank you.  

I have used the advise from CandleScience that you may find helpful.

"Dye Chips work well for lighter, more pastel shades in soy and light to medium shades in most paraffin.

Dye Blocks are better for darker, vibrant colors in soy (especially red, greens, and blues). They can also be used to easily color large batches of paraffin wax.

Liquid Dyes will produce lighter, pastel shades in soy and light to dark shades in paraffin. These are also great for mixing to create custom colors.

As always, we recommend making a test sample of colored wax to be sure you're getting the color you desire."

To answer the OP, I use paraffin (and beeswax). I started with paraffin when I was a kid in the 60s, but about 8 years ago I gave soy a try off and on for a few years. Soy just doesn't do it for me. Scent throw cold or hot has been disappointing. I know others have had excellent results with soy - just not me. Even my wife prefers paraffin candles over soy.

It's been a while since I last been on the bb. Hope everyone is well.

What about dyes or color chips? If you go with liquid dye be sure to get a few of the glass eye droppers or caps Peak sells.

Peak is a great supplier. I have been using them for years and have always been very pleased with their products and service. Candlewic is another fine supplier.

Before I forget, welcome aboard!

I have used several makes of glue dots and from time to time I will have a failure. I generally clean all my containers with hot soapy water followed by a hot water rinse, a white vinegar rinse and finally a hot water rinse. I let air dry and when the time comes warm the container with a heat gun just before adhering the tab to the bottom. This has significantly reduced my failure rate to a few containers a year.

How long does it take permatex to dry before you can pour your wax?

The internet is full of bad and misleading info. You need to do your research and not rely on a single source.

Being on the left coast I find Peak Candles to have both good prices on wax and shipping rates. Peak regularly sends customers emails for shipping discounts.

I have several 4# and 2# pouring pitchers. I find most of the time I like using the 2# pitcher as it is easier to work with.

I use a dixie cup. Place on scale, zero out then add FO to desired amount. After I am done pouring the measured FO into the wax I toss the dixie cup.

It may be an issue if you are hypersensitive, but from the little that is released into the air I doubt very much it is an issue for all but a few.

Wait until your wife leaves the house for a couple of hours, then turn the oven on to 200°F, put a rack in a disposable aluminum pan, put the molds upside down on the rack and melt out your molds in the oven. Be quick like a bunny, leave the oven door OPEN as it cools, and with any luck, you won't get caught. :whistle:

With my luck I'd get caught. I ended up using the heat gun. Went pretty quickly

The old toaster oven I use for cleaning molds finally gave up the ghost. I thought about using the oven, but my wife won't hear of it since it is a brand new. I have 2 dozen votive and 4 pillar molds to melt off the wax. I hate the idea of using a heat gun and heating and wiping down each one individually. Any thoughts on how I can speed up the process? Yes I could go out and get another toaster oven, but I won't have time until Sunday if I do.

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I tried but came up empty handed. This site looks interesting and may be you can contact them for help in getting you those boxes. http://www.usbox.com/

A couple of years ago I had a cell phone that just before it rang you could hear what sounded like crackling and morse code coming through the cars stereo speakers.

What are you all doing to smooth out the haze (on outer diameter) of votives and pillars? Years ago I used cheese cloth, but since I have none I am looking for an alternative that I might have around the house to finish up a batch I did over the weekend.

Sorry I should have mentioned she only used a torch on metal molds. When it came to glass she used a heat gun.

This weekend my daughter went to a party at a candle and soap making store. I watched one of the staff behind the counter use a food torch (like the ones you see for creme brûlée) in place of a heat gun. I watched as she did a dozen or so candles and I have to say it was quicker and cleaner than using a heat gun. She said the secret is to keep the torch moving. She told me she like it better because of the speed and ease of use as well as it doesn't splattering the wax like a heat gun can. What do you all think about using a food torch in place of a heat gun?

The reason you should use a double boiler is because boiling water has a max temp of 212 F which is below the flash point of most wax. When you put a pot right on a burner, it can get much hotter possibly flash over. I don't have the patience to sit and watch wax melt.... so I use the double boiler. A Presto is thermostatically controlled which is why you can melt wax in it. A burner has a thermostat too but it is not insulated and the heat is not dispersed the same as a Presto.

Don't be fooled into thinking a thermostatically controller unit is safe. Just 3 weeks ago my wife called me to ask why the clothes in our dryer was too hot to handle. When I came home to check it out, even the no heat setting raised temp far above what the high setting would produce. After three service calls it was determined that the relay that read the thermostat had burned out which cause the heating coils to overheat until the safety fuse kicked in. The point is never ever leave melting wax unattended.

Just opened my Peak Candle order. Two 10 lb. slabs cut in two and wrapped in several layers of plastic wrap and labeled with general information and guidelines. All other items neatly packaged in zip lock type bags and clearly labeled along with info on their FOs.

I don't normally order just a slab, but when I wanted to try mottling wax I did - from Peak - it came very carefully wrapped and labeled accordingly. I don't think the dirty unmarked is the norm, except for Candlesource evidently. Thanks for posting, I won't order wax there!

I have ordered slabs from Peak several times over the years and have another order that should arrive tomorrow. I have never had an issue with their packaging. Always well packed and items clearly labeled. Another excellent source is Candlewic. You might want to consider trying another source if this is the kind of service you are receiving.

If you experience the spigot clogging simply hit it with a heat gun to melt the offending wax. It will soon be flowing once again.