jeani

No matter which wicks I use (except LX) I have flames jumping around. I'm trying to get a nice steady flame and not lose any HT at the same time. I'm using 444. I've tried adding 4627 from 1oz pp of 444 up to 4oz pp of 444. I've used from 1oz FO to 1.5oz FO. Maybe I'm trying to make too perfect a candle and should lower my expectations. Way back when I first started making candles I used straight soy with ECO wicks and didn't have the flame issue (that I remember) but I couldn't get much throw. I would like to stay with either 444 or 464 due to the throw. On my last 50lbs I had tried 464 and had the same problem. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

I recently bought White Tea & Ginger and Lemongrass & Sage from two different suppliers. OOB Peak won hands down, cold throw Peak won hands down, hot throw Peak won hands down. I used 1 oz pp in the first batch of GW 444 I poured, then tried 1/2 pp and they still had awesome throw. I don't want to disrespect the other supplier so I won't mention the name. Just wanted to mainly say Peak is great IMO with all their scents I've tried. Also, I have been very satisfied with all I tried from NG.

I don't use corn starch either and it worked fine. I also have some mason jar containers I made a couple months ago with whipped soy on top like a sundae (without any additives) and they held up perfect.... When the film forms start whipping until you like the consistency. If it gets too hard just melt it a bit and re-whip...HTH

I had the same problem adding CO. I bought mine from C&S 76 degree. The tops of my candles had a shiny, harder top to them. In testing, I pour the wax let it set up then poke holes to put the wicks in. If they don't work I melt the top down evenly, pull out the wicks, let the wax set back up and poke one or two more holes to try a different wick(s). When I poke the new hole(s) the wax sometimes does crack from around the wick hole and I've had a few crack to the side of the glass. When I pour containers I already have the wicking issue figured out and not poking new holes, I still get the shiny, hard tops. Without the CO, I don't have that problem. I worked with it quite awhile trying to get rid of the hardness because it does help with the hot & cold throw. I use gb 444........using less CO or more CO doesn't seem to change the issue. I live in cold WI ....maybe that has something to do with it. Just wanted to add my 2 cents of experience on the CO thing...HTH

I switched from pure soy to 444. I love the wax itself but cannot wick it to save my soul. I've tried RRD, CD, HTP, Cotton & ECHO. I either get too hot burning with fast mp or too cold burning w/wax left on sides. My jars are small mouth pint mason, balmoral & 8 oz comfort...... Any help or tips would be so much appreciated Jeani:confused:

I used 70/30 and absolutely loved the scent throw both hot and cold but had the same problem wicking it. I either got tunneling or over wicking with mushrooming, black soot - the whole nine yards. I tried ECO, LX, Cotton, Zinc, CD and just could not get it. I use several different styles of jars - all had the same problem.

I used 444 b4 trying my own blend (going back to 444). I got a great scent throw using 1.5 oz pp but backed it down to 1 oz pp and got the same scent throw both hot and cold and a better burn. HTH:)

I use Coconut Oil from BCN at 1/2tsp - 1/2 T pp. I found it does help with the scent throw and does harden the candles up a bit. I started out adding a higher amount but found that possibly weakened the scent throw because the candle was quite hard.........HTH Oh, I believe it is 76 degree