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tangerine

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Posts posted by tangerine

  1. I do think they should stop accepting sample requests by e-mail. A lot of people will take anything that's free and the energy they put into it probably detracts from focusing on people who are ready to be customers. It would be more helpful to just make modest quantities available for purchase through the website, plus they could still send samples at their discretion to people who phone to discuss their needs.

    Yup, I agree.

  2. To add beeswax, I usually use 3% in winter and 4% in the summer, per pound of wax. You will have to play with it a bit to see what works for you. But there is no set in stone amount for you to use. Too much will make your candles crack, too little will not give you the tops you are looking for.

    Check out Kerry's reply.

  3. I do all the initial testing myself. Once I've decided on a wick, I sometimes give candles to family members to test, although I expect them to do only so much. I would rather not ask them to take down burn time or measure melt pool depth. It might be too much work for them or I might not trust their results :cheesy2:. I would, however, ask them about the scent throw and if they like the scent.

  4. Does anyone know of a search engine for fragrance oils? I used to go to the kbecca site but I don't think it's running anymore. I would like to be able to search for fragrances, as opposed to the fragrance finder site which lists the FO's alphabetically.

    Thanks.

  5. Bella,

    When I test a certain wick and I know it isn't the right size, I yank it out, heat gun the hang up then wait for it to set up. Once it cools, I use a skewer to make a hole, insert the new wick, heat gun to seal it in, wait till it sets up again and then test. Once I've decided on a wick, I pour another full candle and test from top to bottom.

    Like Angela, I don't mind a little hang up after the first burn because it has a tendency to catch up with subsequent burns. If you check a wick chart for the type of wick you're using, you'll more or less know which size to start with.

    By the way, when I was starting out, someone told me she preferred an embossing gun over a heat gun since it's lighter. I have only used an embossing gun so I can't really tell you if the weight makes a big difference in the long run.

  6. Not to hijack this thread but,

    I never knew about the http and https!!!

    (Learn something new every day:cheesy2: )

    Thanks for the info!!!:highfive:

    I have always made sure that I have the small padlock in my corner when ordering online.

    ( So I am not total computer idiot!! LOL )

    The "S" stands for "secure." :cool2:

  7. For my note-taking, I take note of melt pool depth at shallow part (my wicks curl), deepest part, presence or absence of mushrooms, glass heat, flame height and throw. I also put the date the candle is made and the date of the test burn so I see how long the candle has cured.

    And yes, with your 2 1/2-inch diameter jar, you should have a full melt pool at 2 1/2 hours, 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. I like to keep my melt pools below 3/8 inch though and a little hang up on the first burn is ok with me.

  8. You might want to wick down and compare. In my initial testing, I used to wick such that I'd get a full melt pool, about 1/4 to 3/8 inch deep in my first burn. But I found that this wick was too hot for subsequent burns, especially when there wasn't much wax left. So now I wick such that I get a little bit of a hang up in the first burn. It tends to catch up towards the bottom.

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