wallyswaxworld77

Do you mean latex to paint the pawprint? I think you might be misunderstanding what I'm asking for ... but you did make me think of a great idea. Instead of buying more rubber stamps, I could make more stamps w/ some latex. That happens to be one of those bizarre items I have on hand!!

Susan.

We have been painting candles for years with just plain old latex house paint:yay:

Today I did some testing & played around w/ Donita's theories about making an imprint. Since I work w/ soy & don't do pillars, I tried a small rubber stamp in a votive & it came out really nice. My company logo is a copy of my dogs pawprint, so I made a paw imprint in a white votive & it looks great. My husband marveled at it like a work of art! Anyway, the imprint is hard to identify, so I thought about filling it in w/ candle paint. Where can I get some? I tried searching & came up empty.

Susan.

Try Laxtex it works great:highfive:

IGCA used to be a really worthwhile organization, but I think it's sort of fallen apart in recent years. I had the pleasure of attending one of their summer conventions years ago in Connecticut, but have been unable to attend another one.

If anyone gets to go to this year's convention this year, please report back about classes, attendance, contests, etc. Usually about 100 - 120 folks go and there are tons of various classes so you can tailor your own experience. Be sure to take some of your product to enter candlemaking contests, too.

We did some asking around and found out it is is Bosie, ID this year next month, and we did some costing it would cost us $2000.00 to go, that's a chunk of change.

Also if they have been around for 40+ years why do they have the meeting in such hard to get to places, and not in a place that is closer to a major air hub? it sure would be a lot cheaper:yay:

Who are they and what do they do:confused:

Henry, sorry if I confused matters. See my initial post above. The aroma beads and Clear Crystals are two different additives.

Clear Crystals are Vestowax according to Candlechem. Presumably that means Translucent Crystals would be Paraflint. Both are synthetic waxes made by the Fischer-Tropsch process and somewhat similar products. They look a little like white rice or orzo.

Aroma beads are Elvax 210, a form of ethyl-vinyl acetate copolymer. They're kind of rounded and translucent.

Question: What are Luster Crystals that Pourette used to carry??

Letitshine has the diamond chips

We found out that they are using the same formula and the same molds, plus the color matches.

i am just getting started on making pillars. I have been making and selling votives, tealights,and a few jar sizes and tarts for the last 4 or 5 years. I have recently came across a lady who would like me to make pillars for her. And my candle supplier is closing!!!!!!!!!!!!! I wanted to start with 4625. And our next closest supplier does not have it. What other pillar wax could I use. I really don't want to add any additives. i've heard of 1343 and 1274 I think that one is mottled though. I don't want mottled. I don't think I'm going to like either of them. what else could i start using?

Try IGI 1343N that one will not mottle and it is a general purpose 139mp pillar wax, if you are on the WEST Coast there is a IGI Dist there in CAL and WA.

1343A and 1274 will mottle

This thread started in April, and they said then that they would re-open in 60 days. I just looked, and their website still says 60 days, and it's almost 2 months later. If there was any truth to their re-opening, I think they would have updated their website. I'm pretty sure they're gone for good.

It seems that no news is no news and we are all left wickless, with the hole that left by the lack of info from them. We understand that all his stuff is in a barn in storage with no movement, so we have had to find others suppliers out west which we have done all, except for the plastic molds, but we are working on that.

We find that this has left a whole bunch of folks having to find others suppliers.

First, yes this is my first post here. But, I've actually been around for quite a while.

Pourette just made some poor business decisions and cut their own throat.

Now with that said, we are looking into producing many of the products Pourette supplied. They have no patents or copyrights on any of the products they produced. We already have prototype samples being made of the mold stands and clamps. And we will be looking into the molds themselves next.

Now Pourette has made another bad business decision. If they do re-open, they have opened the door for competition. That's a good thing for end users, but bad for Pourette.

We have seen over the years companys come and go, but the effect they (Pourette) had in doing what they have done, has opened the door for all the other supply houses to step up to the plate.

There are already some who are suppling the color chips that they had, right down to the same shape and color, we have not seen the plastic molds hit the market yet, but they will. but the stands and clamps have, the metal molds have been around for a while by the largest metal mold manuf. in the nation.

It is most intresting to see who are picking up the mission to supply folks both out west as well in the east, to fill the void left by them.

I just emailed let it shine and asked them again about the warehouse in Sacramento. I will let you know what I find out.

Let it Shine has three warehouses 2 in Washington and one in West Sacramento which has will call service, we were just there and picked up some wax.

Has anyone else ordered wax from CS? I got a couple slabs of 4630 paraffin and they are dirty! Just wondered if this is what I should expect from them?

We have a few times, it looked like just plain old floor dirt, it did not have flakes of rust in the slab, just filth on the outside.

Some of the filth when melted we to the bottom of the melter (no big deal) but some floated at the top (big deal) so we watch very close now, after all we did not pay for the filth

Actually, it's ten pounds of cheap wax from Hobby Lobby, but at this stage, I need to be able to get my techniques back before I start playing in the quality wax that's due to be delivered sometime Tuesday!

Along with about 12 different sample scents, a bunch of wick, 60 lbs of wax, some UV additive and *shock and gasp*, I actually bought liquid dye. Also had to replace my thermometer that didn't survive the move (that still urks me something fierce).

Need to know if anyone has played with IGI-1343 or am I the oddball again and picked up some that no one knows about? We all know that I played a lot with 1218, I thought about switching waxes before the move and decided to give it a shot. Any info is appreciated, please feel free to PM me if you want.

As always, good to be home and this time, it's for good. I have acquired two candle helpers as well and they're just as excited as I am to get started. I MAY be a pain for a bit, I have to restart my entire candle journal since mine was obliterated last year before the move and I've lost ALL of my notes.

IGI 1343 is one of most common wax that I have ever used, if anyone can screw it up it's me.

I find that 1343 is just a basic pillar wax, and if you got 1343A just add a little more F/O and it will mottle unlike 1343N will not.

Have fun and good luck

Is that the wax that sticky and gooey like vasoline? With all the numbers I keep reading about, I get confused...

That wax is IGI 4627 it comes in two 25lb bags in a box.

As for Tarts try IGI 4694 work well, and some of the plam wax they carry also work well, I don't remember the #

Have Fun

My plastic tealight cups appear to be absorbing the dyes from the wax in my tealights. After the wax of the tealight is burned away, the plastic cup that used to be filled with wax is now a light shade of the color of the dye that was used and no longer clear.

I use the plastic tealight cups from Peak and Candlescience. My wax combo is 75% J223, 25% 4794, 6% fo, 4-6 drops Peak liquid dye and UV.

Does anyone else experience this?

We found out by mistake, that all T-light cups are not alike. for it seems that there are a few folks who make them, one is offshore and the other is made in Can, and they (Can) makes two types one is a little thicker than the other.

The thinner one turned a funny color and we could not get the thicker one to do what the thin one did, so now we request the thicker t-light cup.

Hope this helps!!!:tiptoe:

So is Pourette done for good????

Who Knows, one person says one thing, one says another, from what has

been said on the posts on this site no one knows the truth or the whole story, only a swan song of comments.

I really think my problem is my FO. I have some other candles that I colored with red that I am having no problems with (I got them out today to test).

The candles I made with either the strawberry jam or strawberry super strong from JS will NOT stay lit. I wicked up to my biggest wick with the super large hemp wick that works perfect on jars bigger than the one I repoured in.

When I melted the original candles down to repour, I didn't put the labels on the jars like a dingbat. I THINK its the SSS and not the strawberry jam but I had a little strawberry jam left and it is a thicker oil so it could have been that one

This can drive a person waxy, we have seen latley that some of the F/O supplier's are cuttiing the F/O by adding oil solvent to stretch the F/O, it still smells strong but it could be cut 50%, hopefully this isn't the case, but it happened to us a couble of times

Hi y'all. I have searched this forum endlessly and tested to my wit's end and I would love your opinions/thoughts. I love this wax-great color, great throw. On the light scents (Rose, Jasmine), no problem. But I can't wick the heavy scents-Black Raspberry Vanilla, Amish Harvest, Clove, Blackberry Sage. The odd thing is, I get good melt pool, great throw, good initial flame, but after an hour or two, the flame gets teeny tiny. If I wick up a lot I get too much flame, otherwise tiny. No medium flame, ever.

I have tried wicking up, wicking down, and every wick I can readily get my hands on except Eco. I have tried HTP, CD, RRD, LX, Peak's cotton, and A&P cotton. (Can't use Zinc, customers don't like it). Has anyone tried ECO or paper core wicks with this wax? Am I forced to cut down on the FO to .5 oz per pound? Are these scents effective at this load?

I use IGI Harmony Blend (4630), Peak's FOs at 1 oz per pound of wax, Peak's liquid dye, and 4 oz. jelly jars (2.5" diameter).

Thanks to everyone, all help is appreciated. Julie

Try a paper core wick and add some polybost 130 (by s & s Chem) you can increase the F/L it binds the F/O with the 4630

I was just wondering if you could add a little bit of beeswax to J50, maybe it would help with wet spots, any opinions?

We had to heat the jars and after the pour we cooled them slow. this helped

Is there a shelf life to these chips or as long as they are in the packaging will basically last forever til used?

We had some when they were made by Pete R. over in Portland Or. that had to be 27 years ago? and they still were as good as the day we got them, but we had them in a box in storage untill a few years ago.

ok...its settled then? 6006 is not a 50/50! :tiptoe: :tiptoe: :tiptoe:

What we have found out that all have their fav/wax and what works for some does not work for some, all we can do is belive the IGI wax Co. which happens to be the biggest manuf. in North America, and we have to belive the data they have provided, we don't think they would mislead anyone.

We have been doing candles since 1969 and have found over the years everone has a different voice.

So we all have our views

Wally, I would love it if 6006 was 50% soy, but you can tell it is not when you pour it. When it 1st came out, rumor was that it was soy 40/60 para, but when my supplier quit carrying it, he found out it was 20/80. The truth is nobody at IGI will devulge the formula. If you have seen it on their site, bookmark it and post. 50/50 blends require wicking up and I have tested several of them. Carole

All we know is what we are told by them, because of some concerns. when it first came out way back in the Dussex days they had also stated it was 50/50 P/S and had MSDS that stated so.

All we know is a very popular bled and works very well for us in our wickless candles for both hot and cold through, but we have also used IGI 4630 and the J225 but like the 6006 the best.

Ah-ha...I knew it...:lipsrseal Thats a major bummer cause I just dug out my sample 6006, I'm going to play with it anyway since it took me all day to find it.:tiptoe:

I normally use CB-135 no color GL 70/30 for color but I thought I might ease my way out of my Soy Bubble and give some other blends a try and 50/50 seemed like the next logical choice.:rolleyes2

A few years ago we checked with Dussex (5766) and when IGI bought them, we checked with IGI now 6006 and at both times both said it (6006) was a 50/50 P/S blend, now we know there are a lot of folks that would wish that 6006 was not as good as it is, but we don't think IGI would say it is a 50/50 blend if it is not

Ok...I wasn't sure where to post this since it can go in either Soy or Paraffiin. Anyway I did a little research and found that a lot of people liked Farmhouse 50/50 and I want to give this blend a try...so in your opinions who makes the best 50/50 blend and how easy/diffucult is this wax? TIA

IGI makes a product 6006 that is a 50/50 s/p blend, it used to be a Dussex 5766 number and IGI change the # to 6006. we have used it and it is very good for both hot and cold T. It is truly a one pour

I bought wax from Pourette several years ago that smelled of fuel. I wasn't using any scent.....just making hurricanes. I called them and a stupid woman said that maybe the box of wax got next to some chemicals in transit.....NOT.....the entire batch of wax had a definite petroleum smell....several cases. I quit buying wax from them and started buying from Candlewic. Donita Louise

We also had the same issue from the same company, with the same answers, and after doing some checking around, they were repacking the wax that they got from someone in S.CAL, this is what the stupid woman said when we wanted a MSDS info on the wax.

as to the smell they we pawning the 139 as the best wax around, but the MSDS showed it was something called "scale wax" and calling other suppliers the scale wax is the cheapest and lowest grade around and the smell is common.

so we don't buy from them anymore either

Thank you I repoured it again. I got more of a smooth finish but some of it still had the rustic look so I will try heating them on this next one.

Although I guess these 2 combinations make the candles more unique.

Try pouring @ 170