jzastoupil

Yes, you can use eyeshadow on the face. Usually with minerals the composition of face products and eyeshadow are very similar...the formulator should be able to tell you the difference, but generally I like my eyeshadows to have base ingredients that are sheer to not mess up the pigment color, but still have a lot of adhesion. With my face products I may add things to control oil or blur lines and provide coverage and adhesion. There should be no issue using your eyeshadows on your face, but if using on lips you want to make sure all the ingredients are lip safe and if you are using lip or face products on eyes you want to make sure the colors are eye safe.

Never tried this but... http://organicpassion.info/do-it-yourself-zinc-oxide-sunscreen/

Also, I found this on a site once

Concentration of Sunscreens & SPF

Low(SPF 2-5) Moderate (SPF 6-11) High (SPF 12-19) Ultra High (SPF >20)

Titanium

Dioxide <4 % 8 % 12 % 20 %

Titanium

Dioxide,

Micronized 2 % 4 % 6 % 10 %

Zinc Oxide 5 % 10 % 15 % 25 %

Zinc Oxide,

Micronized 3 % 7.5 % 12 % 20 %

I think its from making cosmetics.com. Here is a pdf of making sunscreen from there:

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/articles/11-sun-protective-agents-sunscreens-in-cosmetics-2.pdf

I saw that but I wasn't sure it was the same thing, is it?

No its not. The product you are looking at contains synthetic detergents, and does not contain any actual soap at all - whereas the tutorial mentioned is pure soap. They probably do the same thing though.

Jess

I usually start with listing the ingredients and researching what the heck they are all for. Then I look at the list and analyze it to find out what the active ingredients are. Those are the main things to focus on IMO. You will find commercial products have several diferent emulsifiers or thickeners or filler products. I usually look at lotioncrafter.com and theherbarie.com to get an idea on a similar recipe with less ingredients I could incorporate those actives into.

Anyway, thats how I start. It ends up being trial and error, but I d find it helpful to know what ingredients are necessary (active ingredients) and which culd be subbed or left out.

HTH

Jess

I highly suggest getting Catherine Failor's Cream Soapmaking booklet - she explains everything in it.

I found this on a website, paraphrasing Failor's book:

using your favorite "lye calculator", determine the amount of sodium hydroxide (no discount) needed to saponify the selected oils. multiply that amount by .217 ...(ms. failor never explained how she arrived at this figure.) this is the amount of sodium hydroxide you'll need. now multiply that figure by 5. this is the amount of potassium hydroxide. combine these two figures and multiply by 6. this gives you the amount of water.

Or someone sells a cream soap calc

http://futureventuresonline.com/calculator.html

Snowdrift farm has a free calc, but you have to put in the ratio you want to use, which doesnt help if you dont know what ratio you want to use!

http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/soapcalculator.htm

Apricot Kernal Oil is a really good sub fro Almond

She has a little booklet that some suppliers sell but off hand I do not know which ones.

Brambleberry and Milky Way molds

There is a yahoo group called Cream Soapmaking that is all about the subject - I highly recommend you check it out...many people have had problems with the Snowdrift Farms method, the yahoo group uses Catherine Failor's method.

I am also on the Yahoo group and get a lot of info from there, but you are right, they tend to do pretty involved recipes. No matter what type of recipe you use, you HAVE to use stearic acid and glycerin. I highly recommend Catherine Failor's "Making Cream Soap" booklet...it really goes through the basics and the "whys" and has several basic recipes.

Here is one: (Ive seen it posted elsewhere so I hope its OK to post here)

24 oz stearic acid

4 oz coconut oil

4 oz soft oil of choice (olove, safflower, whatever)

9-12 oz glycerin

1 oz sodium hydroxide

5 oz potassium hydroxide

36 oz water

for supercreaming after the cook:

1 -1 1/2 oz melted stearic

OR

1/2 - 3/4 oz boric acid dissolved in 4 oz hot water

I think most people try to avoid gel when there is a chence of overheating...like when making a honey soap. Or when making a goat milk soap, to try and keep it from discoloring.

Cold process is less time-consuming up front, and there are fewer steps. I'd go for that one first, then tackle hot process once you get the feel for CP.

I agree - I hate doing hot process and only do it when I have to (transparent soap or cream soap), otherwise its CP for me! I can do a batch of CP in 1/2 hour. HP is at LEAST an hour (usually more) of cooking...and thats not including the measuring , etc.

OK, I just made these...subbed sunflower because evidentally I ran out of safflower. They turned out fabulous! Only 2 bombs decided to stay together, so I have a few half-snowballs, twhich I think are a better sixe anyway. I actually used the Winter Therapy EO blend from her website and whoa are my sinuses clear!

Its on the Dish in the archives...I believe it's CathyMB's

Is this correct?? I add the oils to the lye water? I'm used to adding the lye water to the oils. Does it matter? AND... there is no mention of temperatures (cooling the lye to, say, 98 degrees). Can someone please advise me. Thanks!

no...not correct...where is the recipe from? Have you visited the yahoo group on cream soapmaking? Thats where I got all my info & recipes...

My RBO is a golden color...not really dark though.

Looks great. I don't know what its made out of, her ingredienst say goatsmilk soap, liquid soap, fragrance, and color.

Its doesn't look like it has the same consistency that cream soap has.

Hmm...if you go by her ingredients, it almost looks like she :does: just mix MP with Liquid Soap and "whip the snot out of it":laugh2:

Sort of a version of cream soap, I guess. LOL

The only time I've seen Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is as a blend of surfactants... as a Polyglucose/lactylate blend or a Cocobetaine/Lactylate Blend. That doesnt necessarily mean you couldnt use it on its own, though. As a group, the lactylates are excellent viscosity enhancers, stabilizers, and conditioners and are very mild surfactants. I say...experiement!

take that # and multiply by .4 to find out the amount of oils. The 144 you figured out is total batch weight...including water, lye, additives.

You wouldn't happen to have a recipe for cream soap would you?

Cream soap is more than just a recipe, its a whole technique. I highly suggest checking out the yahoo group on it -- they have recipes there and TONS of knowledge about it.

http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/CreamSoap

Its a cream soap.

Cream soaps are made with both NaOH and KOH and are creamy, not solid or liquid. I made some for a shaving cream and LOVE it!

Wow, I really love my Do Right Mold! No Leaking, no problems at all...and I even wash it in the dishwasher from time to time. I guess that we can safely say at least that his work is not consistant...

I believe that it can volcano if you add the oil to the lye

Yes...Ive done it and had a little bit of leakage under the dividers, but if you use singleyellowrose's suggestion of taking, it probably wouldnt leak at all

I would email woodi at soapmaker and see if this company is an authorized retailer.

As a long time nail tech, can I say that EVERYTHING foot related is menthol and/or mint....and its really boring! One on my favorite foot creams is cucumber...and a product line we used for awhile that clients just went gaga for was lemongrass. I am so sick of minty feet...and Im sure a lot of other people are too! Ask around....find out what people in your area would like in scents and go from there. Even if you offer the classic minty one, I would offer at least one other type because not everyone likes minty and/or tingly feet!