jzastoupil

Yes, you can use eyeshadow on the face. Usually with minerals the composition of face products and eyeshadow are very similar...the formulator should be able to tell you the difference, but generally I like my eyeshadows to have base ingredients that are sheer to not mess up the pigment color, but still have a lot of adhesion. With my face products I may add things to control oil or blur lines and provide coverage and adhesion. There should be no issue using your eyeshadows on your face, but if using on lips you want to make sure all the ingredients are lip safe and if you are using lip or face products on eyes you want to make sure the colors are eye safe.

Never tried this but... http://organicpassion.info/do-it-yourself-zinc-oxide-sunscreen/ Also, I found this on a site once Concentration of Sunscreens & SPF Low(SPF 2-5) Moderate (SPF 6-11) High (SPF 12-19) Ultra High (SPF >20) Titanium Dioxide <4 % 8 % 12 % 20 % Titanium Dioxide, Micronized 2 % 4 % 6 % 10 % Zinc Oxide 5 % 10 % 15 % 25 % Zinc Oxide, Micronized 3 % 7.5 % 12 % 20 % I think its from making cosmetics.com. Here is a pdf of making sunscreen from there: http://www.makingcosmetics.com/articles/11-sun-protective-agents-sunscreens-in-cosmetics-2.pdf

No its not. The product you are looking at contains synthetic detergents, and does not contain any actual soap at all - whereas the tutorial mentioned is pure soap. They probably do the same thing though. Jess

I usually start with listing the ingredients and researching what the heck they are all for. Then I look at the list and analyze it to find out what the active ingredients are. Those are the main things to focus on IMO. You will find commercial products have several diferent emulsifiers or thickeners or filler products. I usually look at lotioncrafter.com and theherbarie.com to get an idea on a similar recipe with less ingredients I could incorporate those actives into. Anyway, thats how I start. It ends up being trial and error, but I d find it helpful to know what ingredients are necessary (active ingredients) and which culd be subbed or left out. HTH Jess

I highly suggest getting Catherine Failor's Cream Soapmaking booklet - she explains everything in it. I found this on a website, paraphrasing Failor's book: using your favorite "lye calculator", determine the amount of sodium hydroxide (no discount) needed to saponify the selected oils. multiply that amount by .217 ...(ms. failor never explained how she arrived at this figure.) this is the amount of sodium hydroxide you'll need. now multiply that figure by 5. this is the amount of potassium hydroxide. combine these two figures and multiply by 6. this gives you the amount of water. Or someone sells a cream soap calc http://futureventuresonline.com/calculator.html Snowdrift farm has a free calc, but you have to put in the ratio you want to use, which doesnt help if you dont know what ratio you want to use! http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/soapcalculator.htm

Apricot Kernal Oil is a really good sub fro Almond

Brambleberry and Milky Way molds

There is a yahoo group called Cream Soapmaking that is all about the subject - I highly recommend you check it out...many people have had problems with the Snowdrift Farms method, the yahoo group uses Catherine Failor's method.

I am also on the Yahoo group and get a lot of info from there, but you are right, they tend to do pretty involved recipes. No matter what type of recipe you use, you HAVE to use stearic acid and glycerin. I highly recommend Catherine Failor's "Making Cream Soap" booklet...it really goes through the basics and the "whys" and has several basic recipes. Here is one: (Ive seen it posted elsewhere so I hope its OK to post here) 24 oz stearic acid 4 oz coconut oil 4 oz soft oil of choice (olove, safflower, whatever) 9-12 oz glycerin 1 oz sodium hydroxide 5 oz potassium hydroxide 36 oz water for supercreaming after the cook: 1 -1 1/2 oz melted stearic OR 1/2 - 3/4 oz boric acid dissolved in 4 oz hot water

I think most people try to avoid gel when there is a chence of overheating...like when making a honey soap. Or when making a goat milk soap, to try and keep it from discoloring.

OK, I just made these...subbed sunflower because evidentally I ran out of safflower. They turned out fabulous! Only 2 bombs decided to stay together, so I have a few half-snowballs, twhich I think are a better sixe anyway. I actually used the Winter Therapy EO blend from her website and whoa are my sinuses clear!

Its on the Dish in the archives...I believe it's CathyMB's

no...not correct...where is the recipe from? Have you visited the yahoo group on cream soapmaking? Thats where I got all my info & recipes...

My RBO is a golden color...not really dark though.