swamp_deb

You can download a free 30 trial, it also calculates costs per batch and per bar of soap if you enter the price you pay for your ingredients. You can enter everything (in additives) including bottles, jars, lids and labels to figure costs per unit for lotions, scrubs, whipped butters, balms, etc...too. That is worth the price plus you get a great soap calculator too!

Carrie, I love Soapmaker program, if you need any help email Crawford (he's the genius behind the monitor) and he will guide you through. They are super people and want the program to work for you.

I'm coming in a bit late on this but you have excellent advice, Jbren makes the best salt soap bars. She got me hooked.

I'll go take a look at your's Gran, it sounds like you did great.

Now I understand! I use sugar in mine to make it more fluid when I pour and also you need to bang (kinda like dropping while it is still in your hands) your mold to get the air bubbles out. You could be over cooking it too. All of those will make a difference.

I don't understand what you mean by waxy look. To me it has a different texture than my cp but after a while it looks the same. Some soaps I only do hp and some cp, I guess I just like variety. :smiley2:

Congratulations! They look great, I can't wait to hear how you like using them.

I will second Lotioncrafter, I love all of her products. She is super fast shipping and charges exact shipping, which means that if the calculator charges you 7.50 shipping and she can ship it for 6.75 then you get a quick refund of the difference. The formulas in her formulary are super. I think you will be pleased if you order from her.

Remember that salt will sting cuts some people prefer sugar and some use a combination of salt and sugar. I prefer emulsified too and you can find numerous recipes on line to start with, then tweak to make your own version.

Deb, I don't know whose molds you are talking about that you've had problems with, that is a shame, but you have not bought any of my molds so it was not mine. Uplands and Kelsei molds are fine molds. I started out as a soapmaker looking for a better mold. I am still a soapmaker that has a better mold.

Paul....

Paul, I said that I wouldn't mention names of the ones that didn't work as well and I still won't. Honestly, you have no idea where your molds go after they leave your hands. Haven't you noticed people selling stuff that they bought and didn't use for one reason or another?

I stand by my original post.

I love my Kelsei divider molds and upland log molds. I know that upland is not taking any orders right now due to problems with their move. Kelsei is still in business though and the web site says that they will custom make them for the size bars that you want. I like them so much that I have 4 of their molds, they are great to do business with and she is a soap maker.

I won't bother mentioning the molds that I have had problems with, but personal experience is the reason for my recommending the Kelsei and Uplands.

I love my planer/beveler from KB and wouldn't think of buying a copy when the original works so well. It would be my luck that the angle on the planer would be all wonky on the copy and I would wreck my soaps. KB planer/bevelers are worth every penny in my opinion.

That's good to know the Extra Virgin Coconut Oil is what I use in lip balms, it smells sooooooo yummy. It would be a shame to soap with it and lose the lovely fragrance, but it is great in leave on products.

Fancy Cat Candle Supply is in Georgia. Kari isn't one of the big name suppliers, but her FOs are fantastic (and she's super nice)!! I'm not sure where in Georgia though- give her a call.

http://www.fancycatcandle.com/page/page/1753805.htm

Thanks! That's a new one for me, she is in Bonaire, south of Macon. I'm going to have to give her oils a try.

RJ's -

http://herbalsoapsbyrj.com/

I think I'll just stick with the soaps that our deer hunter likes and not have to put up with the other scents mentioned. He does shower before and after hunting and there in nothing about him that is feminine at all either, he just likes to smell good.

Don't laugh but I have a friend who uses Rice Flower and Shea scented soap before he hunts...........he always gets his limit.

I have plenty of venison in the freezer from this man.

Most people do use anise eo for a hunter and fisherman's soap, I guess the men around here just want to smell good while they hunt.

If you want to see the ebay page with that soap mold, all you have to do is click on the picture and it will take you there.

It is up to you whether you invest in an unknown mold or a tried and true mold. Everyone has to start out somewhere. I trusted soapers who recommended upland log molds and Kelsei divider molds, I haven't been disappointed with these at all. I have used other molds but these have consistantly given the best results. They cost a little more in the beginning but they are cheaper than buying bad molds and being dissatisfied and buying something else later.

Hope this makes sense to you.

This is the one I have. It works great. It has two different size bevels and also planes the bars.

Kangaroo Blue Soap Beveler

This is the one that I have too and wouldn't trade it for any other, it's the best!

Here's the link to Upland's site:

http://www.uplandsoapfactory.com/store/home.php

They are great molds, I have the log molds and love them. For slab molds I use Kelsei's, I don't have to cut the bars with Kelsei's ..... I am straight cut impaired. Even with the lines in the Upland's I would probably have wonky bars!

Have fun looking.

Congratulations, great buy!

What are you going to make first?

Mine is "Red Hot Momma" she's always raring to go!

I have the light version and love it, wouldn't want to be without it. You can always upgrade to pro version at a later date if you start out with the light version.

Lotioncrafter is the best supplier that I have ever dealt with, that is the first place I look when I need something.

I do the opposite and it works well for me...I START OFF by stickblending my FO/EO into my oils, then add my lye solution and stickblend until all is emulsified THEN switch over to hand-stirring.

By doing it this way, I know my fragrance is completely mixed in and the trace process has started...then there is more control by hand-stirring.

That's what I do too, cmp and scent is added to the oils with the stickblender to get all of the clumps out before the lye is added.

Thanks....as along as I can get the lye right then I know I can do it...This is one recipe I am going to use

16oz coconut oil

36oz olive oil

36oz canola oil

Since it is already in ounces will it give me the amount of lye and water to use?

Yes it will. Don't worry I made several batches before I worried about percentages. Learn to make the soap first, sounds like you are ready.

Good luck, I bet you will love it!

I am looking for the same thing. All the logs are wood.... not the best choice for M & P..... I am looking to mass produce and don't want to deal with lining... anyone out there have any suggestions?

I had this all typed out and then thought it might not work for m&p. Has anyone tried the foam craft sheets to line the wood molds for m&p? I know it works for hp and cp. You could really get sharp edges with this if it would work.