Bunny

Everything in moderation girl.. It's safe for your skin once it's diluted... I've got super sensative skin, and if if get fo's on me I get a red blotch. Wouldn't want to do that to a customer.

Wow Robin... I like them!

One suggestion though.. Have you thought about a tea tree line? Maybe the lavender for regular skin, and a lavender/tea tree for oily/acne/blemish prone skin? I'd be your first customer!

Alabaster

Drakkar

BB

Energy

Relaxing

Pink Grapefruit

BCN

Purely Herbal ****

OMH

Bitter Creek

Spearmint*

BNL

Bay Rum**

OMH

Pomegranite & Anise

Grapefruit Peppermint

Cool Water

CC

Lavendar Lullaby

LemonBlossom

Raspberry Cordial (discolors to dark brown)

Creative Candle Supplies

Coconut Lime Verbena

C&S

Wisteria

FOH

Fresh Lemon Sugar

KB

Coconut Lime Verbena

Zen Tea

KY

Blackberry Sage

OMH

Lavendar Vanilla

MMS

Elements of Bamboo

Aloe and Cucumber

Natures Garden

Pearberry - discolors white

Sun Ripened Raspberry

Old Mill

OMH

Peach and Lotus

Oregon Trail

Black Raspberry and Vanilla (no discolor even with the vanilla!)

Frosted Wineberry

Peaks

Green Clover and Aloe****

Green Tea **

Sweet Pea**

Fruit Slices*

Rose Bouquet**

Honeysuckle

Warm Apple Pie

Cool Citrus Basil

Nag Champa

Cucumber Melon

Wild Raspberry

Clean Cotton (1/2 oz ppo awesome)

SC

Gentlemen's Bay Rum

Ginger Essence

Secret Crush

OMH (discolors to tan)

Scents for Soy

Raspberry Guava

SoapNCandles

Ozark Forest

SoapSupplies

Aloe

Almond, Milk & Honey

Southern Scentsations

Sweet Pea

Supplies 4 Candles

White Tea*

SW

Oakmoss (discolors to tan)

Sweet Cakes

Black Raspberry

Sandalwood Vanilla

Lemon Verbena

OMH

TCS

Love Spell

Tony's

Nag Champa

TriState

Lemongrass and Orange

Rice Flour and Shea

Lovespell

Patchouli

Almond

The Scented Bean

Citrus Blast

Sweet Serendipity

WYW from BCN

Lemongrass and Star Anise

Custom mixes....

Green Tea (Peaks) mixed with Pear (Just Scents)

LOL! Don't ever try apricot kernal meal in soaps... Even 1 tablespoon ppo will rip your skin off!

I've just used my first coffee bar from Sheaqueen, and it's totally TDF! Gonna have to try this at home!

The fo doesn't make for a better feathering effect like in mottled candles, but I would recommend just a dash of something in the pot, as these waxes have a weird smell. Not horrible, but not pleasing either. Just a dab of anything takes away the weirdness.

Never tried the polycarb molds with this, but can't see how it would work and make the feathers. I have best luck in aluminium molds, but have used metal also.

Colors will come out lighter with these waxes, so anything you have on hand should work well, just takes a little practice getting the color where you want it.

Make one big batch, and work with a totally non accelerating FO. Split into three sections, and split your fo into the same accordingly. Add fo and color to the first batch, bring to a super thick trace. Pour in mold. Add color and fo to second batch, bring once again to a super thick trace (you may want to stir your remaining bath every now and then with a whisk) and pour over the back of a spoon on your first layer. Same thing with the last layer. Insulate as usual.

Hi all! Sorry it's been a while since I've been able to check this thread...

The 1.75oz size is going to be way big.. A little of this stuff goes a long way. Score the ones you have on the backside, making for 3 melts out of that one that can but cut or broken off at your score marks. Too much of this stuff makes a greasy mess!

I don't color with cocoa powder anymore either, looked too much like a terd floating in the tub, and since I take my bath with the kids, I'll take no chances!

.7 ppo is perfect for this fo! Can't tell you if it discolored, as I heavily colored it, but there was no acceleration!

Did you see the "how to build a soap recipe" page?

http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3164

If its just plain soap with no claims (beautifying, etc), then from what I understand, it doesn't need ingredients listed. And if thats true, if you didn't want to list lye but wanted to list oils, "soponified oils of..." would suffice. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You're partially correct - you don't have to label soap, but if you choose to label it, you MUST list ALL the ingredients. It's all or none with soap. Listing saponified oils of is not correct unless you list all the oils again normally, unless you superfat at 0%, as they are all not saponified. Then you have to figure out which ones saponified more and put that in descending order.

Your batch didn't get warm enough to complete gel. Is it getting cool up there already?

http://www.thesage.com/recipes/recipes.php3?.State=Display&id=102

In making the soap, you won't need a preservative, but you may in the final scrub.

Have you looked at Optiphen Plus? It's paraben free, formalhyde free, and keeps out yeast, bacteria, and fungus.

I would never recommend selling a scrub without preservative, as water will be introduced to the scrub, and you will grow germies without one.

I use 1 oz for a 6 lb batch.. But I use 40/42. It's pretty stout stuff!

It'll get super hard with the CP in there.. Try making a liquid soap and using that as your base, or a combo of liquid and CP.

Yup yup! Sara would be the one you want for this!

Just like Landa.. With your hand! And she's right with the gloves, without the gloves, the baking soda and all that stuff will suck the life out of your hands!

Lessen your oils and water/witch hazel too for the best results.. You'd be amazed at how little you really need!

Sounds like you need water based colorant such as FD&C's or other water disbursable ones.. The end product is going in water, so you need it to be able to dissolve in it. I color my dry stuff first, long before I add the citric. I do that LAST!

For the oils, add 2 parts turkey red oil (sulfanated castor oil) and it'll get rid of the oil slick...

Have fun!

Ok, just tried it out and it's definetely still "sugary"... And it did get super hot... Not sure what to recommend, just wanted to let cha know!

Also, up your soy even more, as it's softer than the beeswax...

Try this...

http://www.thesage.com/recipes/recipes.php3?.State=Display&id=19

I have a "few" sugar scrubs here at the house...lol I'll stick one in the window (which gets super duper hot) and let you know tommorow night what it does!

Most of what we get is refined.. Unless it specifinally says unrefined, I would assume it's refined.

Unrefined has all the "good" stuff in it.

I prefer regular sugar.. I can't stand the icky brown that turbinado sugar turns the scrub. Is it possible your blend was still warm when you added the sugar? If so, yes, the sugar will dissolve. I make up a large batch, the scent and color the next day to keep this from happening.

How much water, how much lye?

I keep my oils at about 110-115, and lye water room temp normally.

Buggies grow in water.. That's why many whipped butters don't contain preservative, they normally don't need it. Anything with water, and adding certain elements, such as milks, honey, proteins and aloe (and a zillion other things) make it even more prone to grow bacteria, yeast, and mold. Anything can get moldy, I'm just making a choice that is supposed to lessen the chances.

Just try it with the water...