Holly

Do you think I should try triple wicking it to see what it does?

Triple wicking will not help in that jar, if anything it will make it worse. If it did work, it would get way too hot because it has a neck and not completely opened...straight sided.

It's not a full melt pool all the way across. I did just check the jar & the one side is hot. Right now I'm ready to throw in the towel. I will try smaller wicks. I've tried CD 5's, 6's & 7's. Maybe I need to try a single wick but it takes such a big wick to do that.

Has anyone ever been able to single wick this jar with 70/30 same as the Clarus wax?

If it is the same as the Clarus wax, I doubt single wicking in that jar will be sufficient. I have noticed that it burns down before out and performs best in jars that are not wide for single wicking. It would definitely have to play catch up and would have to be burned for 4 hours and most likely more to get it to the sides but not all people will burn that long and the ones that do will most likely end up with big flames if they go well beyond the 4 hour mark, unless the wick is very conservative.

I don't know, but I think it's the fact that paraffin melts faster than soy so the flames can't keep up by burning off the wax fast enough when you double wick. I got a 15 or 16 oz Libbey Cylinder jar to try double wicking 4627, but haven't tried it yet. Couldn't double wick that wax in jars with lips or necks. I think I've read that it's easier to double wick with two 51z because they burn cooler so they don't melt the wax too fast for the flame to consume it.

I have thought the same thing. The thing the stumped me was my soy I used was a very low meltpoint soy and seemed to melt as fast and sometimes faster than some of the paraffin blends but I never had a problem. It did tend to burn down before out but not sure if that would make a difference. Not sure exactly what it is. I believe I also noticed that the height of the wicks would be the same as the soys that I have used with no problem but the flames would still be small, but I can't remember for sure on that....I think so anyway. Also, I can double wick these hard to double wick waxes in the open non necked jars. Not sure if that is because of oxygen or because maybe the wax melts slower because it is more open and does not get as hot. Although, I have had success with three wicks and you would think that would melt just as fast as two wicks in a necked container. I sure wish I knew the real reason. It could be that it takes more energy to burn paraffin and without the correct oxygen the flames just cannot perform well. Not sure.

Here is a pic I don't know if you can tell from it. Oh that is such a bummer if that is the case

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From this view it looks like the wick on the right may be weak but it is hard to tell. It is getting close to the point where weakness issues can start. Not sure why some wax will have this problem and others will not but it must have something do with the amount of oxygen the wicks need to perform well and something about the makeup of certain wax which causes the wick to not perform well without the proper oxygen flow. Is it the Clarus 70/30? I never got it to work for me in those jars. I could double wick it in the 10 oz. apothecaries and the open necked jars (Libbey Cylinder jars, etc.) for double wicking and single wicked jars. Keep us posted.

P.S. Sometimes I would experience one wick drowning first and then both further down the jar. It was maddening!

Yes I used the same wick size & cut it shorter. It's been an hour now & that same wick is barely burning. The other one is doing fine. I think I may need to wick up. I've been having trouble with double wicking this jar with the 70/30 blend. With the CB Advanced wicked with a HTP 105 works beautifully in it. One of the wicks always seems to get weak. Maybe I need to put the closer together. IDK I'm at a total loss.

This is what I figured. I have had the same problem. I am hoping you will have better success than me. Pure soy worked well for me as well with double wicking in the tall necked jars but paraffin blends or parasoy blends is another story. I can only use that kind of wax in single wicked jars or wide jars with no necks for double wicking...i.e. Libbey Cylinder jar or Tureen, etc. I was able to double wick the 70/30 in the 10 oz. apothecary but not the 16 oz. apothecary which are necked jars as well as the jar you are using.

I just pulled out the wick that went out & replaced it with another wick. Been 11 minutes so far & it's looking good. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Did you put the same wick size and type in and cut it shorter?

The Sugar Cookie Royale from moonworks is ridiculous By far the best Sugar Cookie I've ever smelled. I've made candles, tarts, and Room spray with it and it performs well in all 3!!

Have you compared it to Peaks? I use Peaks and really love it. I am curious as to how it compares. It took me a while to find the right one.

So I'm brand new to the forums and to candle making. We just made our first batch this weekend with limited success. The success was that we didn't burn the house down, the not so successful was the no scent throw and wet spots.

Anyway, this thread is really informative while being really scary for a newbie. While doing a little research after our first batch that had really no throw I was thinking about getting vybar. How does everyone feel about using vybar with soy or palm (the two waxes we plan to use)? Does it work well, is it worth it?

Keep working at it. Also, sometimes one can go through several oils before finding one or a few that give a good scent throw, especially in some soys. What soy are you using? If it is a blend already, Vybar should not be needed. I remember way back in the beginnings of my testing I tried adding Vybar to a blend and it did not seem to help the scent throw. I learned that it takes the right combination of wax, fragrance oil and wicking and jars can make a difference as well.

Yes the flames were healthy. After looking again the other wick is shorter & burnt down into the melt pool. At first when I straightened it up it was ok but now it's just barely above the melt pool & won't light again. Going to pull them out & try cutting a little shorter.

It's the Libbey 26 ounce storage jar the wax is just below where the larger part gets smaller. I hope this makes sense.

If the flames were healthy and stayed healthy than it is not the weak flame problem. I will say double wicking in tall jars with necks can have weak flame issues as it gets lower down the jar. Is it the Clarus 70/30 wax? I hope by cutting a little shorter next time helps. Keep us posted.

Sometimes with curling wicks if they are too long they can bend down to the wax. You may need to cut them a little shorter so the curl is less...not as long to reach the wax. I had this trouble when testing but cannot remember which curling wick gave me the problem.

Also, were the flames healthy? You know for sure it went out because of it curling into the wax and not drowning out? Which jar is it and how far down is the wax from the top of the jar?

What's your name? Holly

How old are you? 49

Where do you live? Eastern Washington

How long have you been making candles/soap/whatever? 8 years

How did you get started making candles/soap/whatever? Gold Canyon candles way back when started my real love for candles. I wanted to be a distributor for Gold Canyon candles when we moved north, but I could not get in with them as a distributor since there could only be so many per population and square miles and there was a girl already doing it in this area. I did not want to be a consultant...I wanted stock at that time. They no longer have the distributor program now. I went looking for another company, but I could not find any that I really liked that offered the right program. So I came up with the big idea to create my own candle line. It took me about a year to develop my first line, and I started selling in Nov. of 2005. My products did change over time. I was in the biz for five years and developed many products. I ended up with severe burnout and lack of profit to make the time and effort worth it. Long story. It was consuming my life. I closed my biz in 2010 to look into other endeavors. Nothing seemed to work out in the way of selling for other companies. My heart just was not in it. I just reopened a few months ago after being closed for 2 years. I am taking it one day at a time and not pressuring myself this time around and keeping it in perspective and balanced with my other responsibilities I have.

Are you married? Any kids? Married (20 years) 2 Girls (16 & 13)

If candle making isn't your primary job, what do you do? I have been a stay-at-home mom for 16 years other than group fitness instructing which I retired from doing in 2009 due to the biz and other responsibilities in my life. I wanted to teach until I was 50 but something had to give at that time. I recently starting looking to get back into the workforce.....not because I want to, but because I have to to help supplement our income. I feel terribly out of the loop, and it is hard to rev it up at 49 to go back into the workforce.

Anything else we should know? I am originally from San Diego, CA. We moved North in 2004 and never looked back! I am a country girl and an animal lover and have 3 horses (Clydesdale, Fox Trotter & Quarter Horse), 3 dogs (Yellow Lab, Choc. Lab & a Pug), 3 cats, and 3 fish tanks (have a breeding pair of Angelfish and have babies right now - they are great parents!). Not sure why everything is in threes. They all keep me busy along with my family and home. I study natural horsemanship and have a great love for draft horses!

That is really sweet an awesome of you! I just sent them an email and we'll see what they have to say!

No problem! It would be great if it can be duped! They may need more than an oz....can't remember. I have never had anything duped before but have read about it. I will check to see how much I have.

Oh my gosh that is the most awesome suggestion ive heard! Very Sadly, I wish I had heard or thought of it sooner because i just used it all! =( I have some candles made with it, but not any of the oil left.

I have some left....not much though. You could talk with them MMS (I use them and like them), and I can send an small amout to them. I had a customer that basically only bought that scent, and I have been savoring it for her. I just reopened my biz not long ago. Let me know.

I know it is! I just wish we could only find out where she got it from! I cant believe there isnt someone who has it! Its so amazing!

I know, it is a real bummer. Either some company has the same one or maybe it was specifically formulated for them. Not sure. I was so glad when someone bought them and then I was so bummed when they did not follow through with the biz for very long at all. I wonder why.

I tried CS and Peaks and some others and none of them passed for me. I believe I tested BW's and it still did not pass. I would have to check if I still have some. It is hard to match to the Scented Bean's Hazelnut Coffee.

I know The Scented Bean closed a very long time ago, but I bought Hazelnut Coffee in huge bulk because i loved it so much!! And I just used the last of it today!!! =( Can anyone PLEASE help suggest anything very close to it? Best ive ever smelled!

I am right with you on this one. I have never found the best replacement for The Scented Bean's Hazelnut Coffee. Best I ever smalled as well. I am still looking. Nothing has been as good. I do have a sample of Hazelnut Coffee from Fragrance Oil Central and when I finally got around to thinking of giving it a try after I smelled it out of bottle again, I realized they had closed as well. It smelled like it was going to be pretty close. I do wish the gal that bought them would have stay opened. She never really officially opened and the amount of time that she was selling the oils, she ended up closing shortly after she got some stock in. It was a real big bummer.

Does the pouring temp affect the HT? or does it only affect shrinkage?

I have never found pouring too hot to affect the scent throw. If anything, to me waiting longer for it to cool down before pouring would burn off more scent, but this would only be for larger batches.....a whole big pot or if one was pouring from a very big container. It stays hotter longer in the heated pot and with a larger batch of wax. If you are making more than one candle to me waiting longer to pour it would increase chance of burn off but many soy users have to wait for wax to get to 150 or lower and it works fine. I used to pour at 150 and it never affected scent throw, not that I noticed.

Glad that seemed to work. Just to make sure, when you said sink holes, I assumed you did mean either holes around the wicks or holes that open up after lit. Is this what you meant? You may want to try adding that other wax without putting it in the oven while cooling to see if just by adding the wax will help. When you go to make many candles or get to the point where you are out of your house, it is very difficult to do this. I have heard some covering their candles with a box but that can become difficult over time as well for big orders, etc. Most pure soys are usually worse about "sink holes", but I have not worked with CBA. Glad you woke up without sinkholes!

Question....I'm testing with 6006 right now. I poured two candles last night and both have sink holes. I heated to 190, stirred for two mins and then poured. The first jar was room temperature and the second I heated up a bit. Do I need to pour hotter, cooler? Also, will the sink holes inhibit my testing? I know I could always use a heat gun, but I'm afraid that might burn off some of the fragrance oil and since I haven't been getting a throw at all in the past...I don't want to risk it. Thanks!

Pouring cooler and slower definitely helps. If it still continues, you may have to poke relief holes and do repours. I did not use that wax long enough to know if it is common with that wax and did not test it in narrow tall jars. I do know that taller containers and certain types of wax (pure soy mostly) can have this problem. I had to poke relief holes with the soy I used and did repours....used it in the 16 oz. apothecary jars which are tall. I hated this extra step and it definitely made my candles more time-cosuming to make. It was a must though. Not all of them would get air pockets, but I wanted to make sure it never happened. That is the main reason why I will not use that wax again even though it was a great soy for scent throw and a good wax for double wicking. I am sure there will be others here who will reply that use that wax in those containers that will know if this is common or not with the 6006 and what has helped them with it.

P.S. I don't recall reading it being a big problem with 6006 but maybe that is the case if poured at a lower temp. Did you pour at the suggested temp?

Thanks so much, Chuck! I just might give that a try

Lauren, that is the wax I was telling you about in my post that has given me good results in scent throw. It is a wax though that sometimes can be hard to single wick in larger one wicked containers....like status jars. It usually has to play catch up unless you have a torch in there. This is just my finding. It tends to burn down before out. It is important to burn it long enough in each burn. As it travels down the jar it does play catch up from the heat. It is just not the real easy to get a full meltpool in each burn, especially towards the top of the candle.

It is my favorite parasoy blend and I like it over other paraffin blends as well. Each wax has it pros and cons.

P.S. I should also say, this wax double wicks better in non tall jars with necks, like the 10 oz. Apothecary. It also does well in straight sided (no lip or neck) jars for double wicking (i.e. Libbey Cylinder jars) or triple wicking in the real large cylinder jars.

Congrats Holly! You are using 3022 for melts?

Steve

I used to use it for tealights and some limited addition candles (seasonal) that I had. I used a pure soy for my main line at that time which was a great wax but too time-consuming to produce. I use another wax right now for melts but dabbling with a blend that has 3022 in it...my own blend. Not sure yet on it until I test more fragrances.

This is the wax you need to order from Clarus (warehouse is in Dallas): CSB Stasis 3022 a high veggie blend container wax, 70% soy and 30% paraffin. Use cdn or cd wicks and start at 6% fo load. Heat your wax to about 185 degrees add fo and color and pour into warm, clean jars at 180 degrees and place in a covered box to slowly cool. That's it. Request a sample slab and see what you think. This is the fabled Greenleaf wax that was so hot several years back and its just as good as it ever was then. They also have their own version of 6006 which is pretty good too but I have used the other wax for about 6 years now and have never found anything else to take its place. Just driver over and pick up a slab, I promise you will like this product. HTH

Steve

†

This is the wax I was telling her about, which I have used and will use again. I just reopened and only offer wax melts right now.

Thanks! These are not wax, these are CP soap. The last ones are Whispering Mist from WSP and Pina Colada from Peak. The Piña Colada is the one that heated on me. The both smell awesome.

Well, duh! No wonder I was not understanding the gelling part. I do not make soap. lol I would like to make cupcakes candles and/or wax melts. The latest ones you made are awesome looking too! Thanks for sharing!

Lemon Blossom from Candle Cocoon..

I love it straight..with her Fairy Dust and Twinkle Toes (grapefruit) and with Vanilla Voodoo for Lemon Creme..with straight Strawberry for Strawberry Lemonade, with straight Blueberry for Blueberry Lemonade..

Thank you. I tested it in a wicked candle a long time ago. I did not order it and most likely because I may gave gotten fuel smell in my soy wax which was common with citrus scents. Is it a straight Lemon without a floral note to it? I cannot remember. I love her oils. I use the Fairy Dust and Twinkle toes as well.