LisaMW

I agree. definitely remember to cure. I let mine sit for a week before testing. I like Eco's in my smaller jars with taller jars I use Lx wicks.

Thank you. I'll look into wickit.net. I've never tried premiers. I know they're popular, but I usually get my wicks from Candlewic or Bitter Creek and neither of them sell premiers. I'll look into them as well. Every wax I've ever tried (I'm partial to parasoys) I go through a few wick series and always end up back with lx. It's just always seems to work for me, so it's frustrating to see this one fragrance cause the wicks to struggle. I guess anyone whos ever tried to make a good candle has run into this problem at some point.

Does anyone know where to get spooled eco. 75. Mostly I only see it in tealight height, and I found one place where I can get it in 6 inches. I'm trying to wick Blueberry Pie from Candlewic in an 8oz Status jar (2.5" diameter). I like lx wicks and use lx 14 in the 21oz status jars. I've been debating about Lx 10 or 8 for the 8oz jars. If that sounds small to you it's because I find that CBL130 from Candlewic needs to be wicked down quite a lot. Blueberry Pie seems to not like the smaller lx wicks. The flame seems to be struggling and if I wick up, I know I'll get a lot of smoke. get a lot of smoke with the cd and rrd wicks. I like the way eco.5 works in my tealights but eco 1 seems to get a big mushroom in the small status jar, though it does have a nice melt pool. I haven't tried htp yet. Thats next on my list, though I don't have any from after their manufacturing changed, so I don't know if I can trust the results I get. Any thoughts would be helpful

Does anybody know if there is a wick smaller than an eco .5 for tealights. Usually the eco .5 works perfect for my tealights in Candlewic's 130 parasoy wax with 6% fragrance load. But I came across a fragrance (Plumeria by Bitter Creek) where the wick gets a large mushroom, the stem of the wick gets long, and the combination of the two causes the wick to fall over and I've a a little fire inside my aluminum tealights because of it. So happy I use aluminum and not plastic. Now I'm looking for a wick alternative. I use LX 16 and 14 wicks in my status jars with this wax, but I don't know that lx has a wick small enough for a tealight. Any suggestions?

Those are great references. Thank you. Here's an article that talks about what GHS is and what the different hazards are GHS Labeling Requirements: The Definitive Guide [2021 Update] | Luminer. Everything that I've been coming across seems to indicate that hazardous chemicals are labeled for work force use, but that same labeling isn't required for consumer goods (at least not yet). I find it hard to believe that consumer product safety commission or OSHA hasn't created some kind of overriding rule or law that pertains all products made with a chemical element. If there is a law, it's really hard to find.

I know that there are plenty of threads about warning labels, but I can't seem to find the answer that I'm looking for. I'm wondering about hazard pictograms. Some generic warning labels don't use any pictograms others use the exclamation mark. Alot of the SDS' that I have looked at place other symbols in their report such as the fish for environmental hazard or the man with the star on his chest for health hazard. Are those symbols also supposed to be on the warning label? My thought process is this even though there is no official overseer of the candle business, proper labeling for weight, business location, product identifying terminology, and contact info is still expected to be on the labels. Does that mean we should also be paying more attention to identifying potential hazardous chemicals our candles? Or do those hazard warnings apply more to when a chemical is in its original liquid form? I also have a similar question when it comes to The Right to Know Act. I live in New Jersey which often is listed on the the SDS under the Right to Know. I am under the impression that this is more for factory employees, but it is titled the Worker and Community Right to Know Act. Do any of you change your label based on your fragrance or do you just use a generic label fragrance?

I've been using Problend 650. It's the only parasoy I've tried, and I've never used just soy, so I'm not sure if what I'm seeing is to be expected. When the candle is burning the wax under the melt pool looks like it is separating. I pour at 165 and let the candles cure for 3-4 days, should I be curing longer? The Flaming Candle's website say 24-48 hours. This look doesn't seem to have an impact on the scent throw. I'm still working on wicking and lighter scents don't seem to work well but my strong scents like cranberry woods seem to have a strong scent throw at 8% fragrance load. Here is a picture of the wax separating.

I have a bunch of wicks ordered and little short candles is my plan. It sure is frustrating when a candle doesn't burn the way you expect I to.

I've been trying to google search different size wicks and can't seem to find any small packs of the htp or eco. There seems to be a lot of square braided un-tabbed wicks out there. I'm not sure that that's what I'm looking for though. Really I'm not sure what I'm not sure what I'm looking for which is why I don't want to pay Candlewic's prices. I was hoping to find something similar to The Flaming Candles un-tabbed wick sizes and prices ($3.50 for 10 yards). I'll probably have to get the tabbed wicks. I'm really hoping the eco wicks will work. If anyone has ever tried PB 650 and has a wick suggestion that would be greatly appreciated. I'm very disappointed in the LX wicks that I usually use when working with paraffin wax. When I first started working with this wax and got no hot throw I thought because it was a parasoy blend it might need more fragrance so I bumped my fragrance load from 6% to 9% and the cold throw was very strong. It stood out sitting on my table with all the other candles that I've been making and testing, but when It was lit I got nothing out of it. 9% fragrance load (Magnolia in Bloom by NG) with no hot throw seems like a waste of both fragrance and wax. So I'm hoping a different wick will solve the problem.

Does anyone know where I can get some sample or small wick spools of the HTP or ECO series? I'm trying to wick ProBlend 650 pillars and the LX wicks I usually use don't seem to have a hot throw. The only place I can seem to find either of them in spool for is Candlewic, and I would rather not buy a whole spool for something that may not work. I suppose I could by the pre-tabbed ones and chop off the tab.

I just sent an email to Flaming candle asking a few questions about their products and got an answer back almost immediately. I thought I would share the answers as one of them perplexed me. My questions: 1. Is problend 450 your own blend or do other sellers sell it? 2. Do you provide safety data sheets for your waxes and fragrances? 3. Are your diamond dye chips the Reddig Glo chips? This is the response: Thank you for contacting us. Yes, ProBlend is made for us. It is 52% soy and 48% paraffin. We can get you MSD sheets for any product you need. Just email us the specific items you need them for. As for our dye chips, unfortunately we cannot disclose our manufacturers. They are little diamond shaped waxy pieces, though if that helps. Please, let us know if there is anything else we can help with. We are always glad to help where we can! I thought the answer to if problend was their own wax was interesting for 2 reasons. Ihave seen older post on this forum comparing Problend 450 to KY 143 as if it was the same or very similar. I've never used KY so I don't know. Also, I asked about 450 the pillar paraffin wax. The answer given seems to be about 650 the para-soy wax.

Has anyone ever tried the production preblend pillar wax from Candles and Supplies? I've been having trouble with Candlewic's 141 seeping certain (typically floral) scents while burning. I really like the look of 141 and IGI 4625 just doesn't have that creamy look that 141 has. So I'm starting to look elsewhere. Does anyone know if Candles and Supplies wax is the same as Flaming Candles Pro-blend?

So after weeks of learning to make candles and burning every candle I've made regardless of outward appearance, I finally came upon my first air pocket around the wick. It was in a votive, so I don't have a lot of wasted wax. I didn't notice anything different when I was making it. I made another votive at the same time with the same wax and it is burning perfect. Is there anyway to know that an air pocket is going to form? I always poke holes as I'm making the candles for the air to escape, and I didn't notice any shrinking beyond the norm. Is this something that you just have to hope for the best with? Or is there an indication that I may not have noticed that would have let me know that one votive was a dud while the other would preform just right?

I have cut my wicks too short before, so maybe that's what I'm doing and just noticing the bad burn more when the candle has been trouble from the start. Also, sorry about the misspelled subject title. I started this thread when I was frustrated after looking at a tunneling candle. Clearly I forgot to spell check.

I'm using candlewics 141. My house is always right around 70 degrees. I always pour at 175. I always wait 2 days before burning. At this point I'm convinced it has something to do with having to remelt the wax. I just can't think of any other change that would be happening to cause me to need a higher wick than I normally would.

I don't know if I'm noticing this right or if its in my imagination. Every time I have to repour a candle because of a leak or I was testing multiple wick and realized one was clearly not going to work I find that the wick doesn't work the way it should. Ex. I know that LX18 works with Frozen Pine from Candlewic. The other day I melted down an older candle with LX 16 and replaced it with LX 18. Now I'm trying to burn it and it is not going as well as I know it should. I've notice on candles that leaked to the point that I had to start over (pillars) the same phenomenon happens. This doesn't make sense to me especially if it was a leak issue and the ax hadn't even hardened before I got it back in the pot to bring it back up to pouring temperature. Am I imagining this or is there something about remelting a candle that impacts the wick size?

Thanks, I thought the tape I tried would be strong enough to handle the heat, but I guess next time I'll have to get some HVAC tape.

Has anyone ever used the rubber plugs to seal the mold hole. I usually cover the hole with a wick sticker and then cover the sticker with mold sealing clay. I don't generally have any problems. If there is a leak, it is typically a small leak that seals itself. Today I ran out of clay and tried mechanical duct tape. I ended up with a giant mess. Before I order more clay, I'm wondering if anyone has ever tried the rubber plugs? Do you trim the point down? How many times can you reuse them? Do you cover the plug with tape or clay for extra leak protection? When I order more mold sealing clay, that will be the only thing on my order. It's a small item compared to the shipping, so I was looking for thoughts on the plugs before I pace the order.

I've been experimenting with these two wick types in my cbl 141 pillars and they both seem to have their flaws. So I was wondering if anybody has a preference for one over the other. I don't see either brand doing any self trimming. I've been using ply 27 and occasionally 30. I find that the flame seems large and that the melt pool doesn't seem to want to even out on the second burn. At this point I expect the first burn to be uneven because of the curve in the wick. With the LX wicks (18) I find the candle will even out after a few burns but on each burn I will get mushrooming on the wick. I am thinking that I will order LX 16 to see if that reduces the mushrooming but before I start order new wicks I wanted to get some opinions on if anyone has found one wick series to have less flaws or at least more tolerable flaws.

Nope, pouring all layers at 185 didn't work. Bottom layer perfect top layers still a mess. Is it possible that 6% is too much fragrance oil or that I'm stirring the fragrance in enough before pouring? I don't have this problem with a single color candle so I wasn't thinking fragrance load. At this point I am primarily focused on cbl 141. I know that's not discussed as much as 4625 so I understand that some of you may not know how to troubleshoot this wax.

I haven't tried pouring all three layers closer to 185. I was under the impression that each layer should be slightly hotter then the one before it. I do my final fill in the sink hole pour at 190. I've never tried going above that so I don't know what happens if you go too high. I will try keeping all the layers closer to 185 next time.

Sorry, forgot to list the temps in my original post. First layer 175, second layer 180, third layer 185. I pour single color candles at 180 and don't have this rustic look issue.

I've been trying to make layered candles and they keep coming out with the top two layers mottled or deformed in some way. The bottom layer always comes out perfect. I've tried heating the mold in an oven at 200 for 5 minutes. I've tried pouring my layers within 15-20 minutes of each other (as soon as I see the first layer start to solidify), and I've tried waiting a longer time 1 1/2 -2 hours for the first layer to harden. I just don't know any other tricks to try. Here is a photo of what I mean. The pink is 4625, and the orange is CBL 141 both at 6% fragrance. Side Note: My calculations on colorant seem to be off. That's why it looks like the candles are meant to be one color instead of three.

This is the top of CW 141 with 6% fragrance and an LX20 wick, which is one size above candlewic's recommendations for this wax. The candle was burning for 4 hours. I have the same problem with 27 and 30 ply. I've tried burning a few candles a second time hoping they would even out, but no luck there. Before I spend a whole lot of money trying out different wicks, I was hoping someone would have a suggestion for what type of wick to try next. Would HTP or a square braid give a more even burn?

Here are some photos of a candle I did with candlewic's 141. The top layer was poured around 175 and the middle and bottom layers were poured at 180. This wax isn't supposed to mottle and I used 6% fragrance in all three layers, so I don't know why the top layers don't look smooth like the bottom layer does. Another question I have is those bubbles as the candle is burning. Hopefully you can see what I mean in the picture. They are clearly were I poked the relief holes, so did I poke the hole too early, too late, did I not heat the second layer hot enough, or are those little air bubble normal for layered candle? Pam W I got your message. Thank you for taking the time to try to help a newbie like me.