MissMargie

A 1500 foot roll of PVC film from durapak is $2 cheaper, however, their UPS ground ship rate for me (I'm in Delaware) is almost $17. The Shrinkwrap Store ships PRIORITY from California. I had my order in 2 days and it only cost me $13.

I agree with Dani. As a result, I use a combo of chips and liquid. When making a black candle, liquid is the only way to get a true black. The down side is that you have to use so much that you might end up with a chemical smell.

No... you didn't miss the supplier. I guess I'm a tad tired myself (for me that's better than admitting to old age). The site is: http://www.shrinkwrapstore.com/

Try these folks: http://www.shrinkwrapstore.com/ I haven't found anyone that beats their pricing, shipping costs or customer service. I now use them exclusively for PVC and poly bags.

I've been using shink material for ages. I was ordering it from a company who was slightly less costly than the others (and believe me, I invested some serious hours pricing this). However, even using my old supplier meant being able to afford only the PVC shrink which, as you all know, is very hard and brittle when shrunk and the shipping costs were ugly. Anyway... I stumbled on this company on the net. Not only is their PVC much less expensive than anyone else, but I can now afford the poly shrink film. It's softer and more flexible when shrunk and it just looks better (also, it almost never tears). Now, you might be able to find somebody selling poly for close to this price but good luck finding better shipping costs or order turnaround time. Their customer service is wonderfully friendly, helpful and they know their product. If you email them with questions, they get right back to you. They offer periodic specials too. I'm extremely happy with this supplier. If you use or have thought about using shrink packaging... give 'em a try. You won't be disappointed. Oops... forgot the link: http://www.shrinkwrapstore.com/

I've been using shink material for my votives and tarts for ages. I was ordering it from a company who was slightly less costly than the others (and believe me, I invested some serious hours pricing this). However, even using my old supplier meant being able to afford only the PVC shrink which, as you all know, is very hard and brittle when shrunk and the shipping costs were ugly. Anyway... I stumbled on this company on the net. Not only is their PVC much less expensive than anyone else, but I can now afford the poly shrink film. It's softer and more flexible when shrunk and it just looks better (also, it almost never tears). Now, you might be able to find somebody selling poly for close to this price but good luck finding better shipping costs or order turnaround time. Their customer service is like dealing with Becky at JS... friendly, helpful and they know their product. If you email them with questions, they get right back to you. They offer periodic specials too. I'm extremely happy with this supplier. If you use or have thought about using shrink packaging... give 'em a try. You won't be disappointed. Here's the link: http://www.shrinkwrapstore.com/

Yep... wrong wax. If you use a votive/pillar wax, you shouldn't even need to spray the tart molds. Also, when pouring tarts, you don't have to pour that cool. Container wax requires a cooler pouring temp but not tarts. On the rare occasion when a few stick, I just stick 'em in the freezer for 3 or 4 minutes and they literally fall right out of the molds. Tarts are fun to make... enjoy!

Ironically... I just posted to a thread about warmers. I use them at home all the time and my family and close friends who use my candles all use warmers in addition to burning. However, I suggest being cautious when selling them with your candles. Here's the discussion thread from earlier. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28759 Here's another one I ran across a while ago. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7875&highlight=importance+testing

I believe I know why the concern. If you place a large candle on the warmer, something like a 22 oz or a tall narrow jar of any size much over 10 oz, you run the risk of bursting the glass. When a candle is on a warmer, it melts from the bottom up. As the wax at the bottom melts, it expands. Since the top wax hasn't melted, it acts like a plug leaving no room for the melt to expand. Pressure builds and sometimes the glass bursts. So, the deeper the container, the longer it takes for the top to melt and more chance of a pressure burst. I've included in my warnings to buyers that since this is a possibility, they should use caution when using warmers for smaller candles and suggest that they never warm a candle 12 oz or larger. I could use one of the high/low temp adjustable warmers and use only the lower setting, or even poke holes in the candle... I could and I do use them at home... but I'm nervous about what might happen when my customers get the candle to their home and my liability insurance is high enough. The only truly safe warmers (IMO) are the deep, enclosed ones that surround the candle completely... like the Crazy Mountain brand. You get a slightly more uniform melt and even if the jar does break, the wax isn't going anywhere.

Ya know... Becky is an incredible person and has the best possible customer service. She should be the poster child for the correct way to deal with customers. However... I've tried many, many of her FO's and I've had poor performance on most. I make candles both in a soy and a parasoy with only a few of the poor performing oils throwing better in the parasoy. Because she's great, I still purchase about 6 oils from her exclusively (Sandalwood - excellent, Wild Cherry, Old Fashioned Apple Butter - very strong, Vanilla Buttercreme Crunch, Berrie Buttercreme and China Rain - but this one only in the parasoy)... but that's it. I order from Peak, Candlescience, MillCreek and Nature's Garden. Like the previous posters... I too can't wait days and days for curing.

Thanks so much for all the feedback. You've pretty much echoed my rationale but I really needed to "hear" it from other candle makers. The thought that a candle I made could be a hazard was enough to lose a year's worth of sleep. I'm just gonna have to stress more of the cautions and instructions. Gee... should I buy liability insurance? Sigh....

A new customer purchased a candle from me. It was Mac Apple in an 8 ounce dodec jar. The wax used was EcoSoya 135 and the wick was an HTP 104 and I used medium red liquid dye. She claims that the jar was burning less than 2 hours when her smoke detector went off. When she checked the candle, she found it had broken; almost a perfect horizontal break all the way around the jar and the label had started to burn. I'm soooooo upset by this since I sell an awful lot of these. I tested the best possible wick for this line and I can't think of what might have caused it. I won't risk my customers safety or our reputation. I've wondered if maybe the jar was a defect or maybe she burned it longer than she estimated. I'm very concerned. Have any of you ever experienced anything like this? My mother-in-law (in spite of my constant warning to her) burns these candles for hours and never had one break. Any feedback would be so very appreciated. I'm really worried.

As a follow up to the thread below, I've taken pictures of the customized Presto pot. I set the front of the pot on it's lid in order to tilt it up just a bit. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15233

Nope. The spigot doesn't clog (yup... it is a strange word however, the actual name of the plumbing part is a "sillcock" which is even weirder). The spigot stays heated enough to remain clear... mine have yet to clog. Also, I use 2 pots at a time (and I'm buying and customizing 2 more) so I've always got 14 - 15 pounds going at the same time. It melts a full pot faster than any other method I used... about 15 - 20 minutes max. Note: I'm probably preachin' to the choir, but you still have to watch the temp. Keeping the thermo control at just a hair under 200 degrees does the trick but I still check the wax temp OFTEN. When you're done pouring for the day, just use a few paper towels to wipe it out and throw the lid in the dishwasher. Okay... it's not 25 lbs of wax at one time but I'm able to maintain a constant, steady supply of melted wax because the melt time is so quick and if I need only a few pounds of the wax... the pot keeps the unused portion safely ready for me until I'm ready for it. I'm very happy with this tool. I'll post a picture tomorrow. Gotta warn ya, though... once customized, they ain't pretty but they sure are functional. Margie

Hi amieelynne: Hewells is correct. THere are detailed instructions for doing this here in the Gen'l Info section. However, I came across my way by reading this: http://www.candlecauldron.com/prestopot.html Scroll down to "Version 2 - Submitted by Sandy" I can't say enough how very, VERY easy it was. Even the first one. If you'd like. I would be happy to "my" step-by-step" instructions as well as pictures of the finished pots. I melted 6 lbs in each pot. However, if you put in about 3 lbs... set the temp to just a hair under 200 degrees, you can then add more wax up to 7 lbs as the first load melts and makes room. Note: I did the first one all by myself. They're both working so great, I'm getting 2 more (I have a school and a church fund raiser coming up). Let me know if you'd like pics and instructions. Margie