Jump to content

jfc

Registered Users Plus
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by jfc

  1. On 12/18/2018 at 7:47 PM, StanfordP said:

     

    I don't let the wax cool completely, so there shouldn't be a line. But, any time you do a double pour, the odds of sinkholes reduces significantly.

     

    Good news, I didn’t get any lines.

    @stanfordp: what is your pouring temp for the second “pour”?

  2. On 12/16/2018 at 5:53 PM, StanfordP said:

    I don't find using a cooling rack helps much. One thing I've started doing more recently is (especially in larger containers) pouring a small amount of wax to fill about an inch at the bottom. Once I notice it starting to cool and turn white, then I fill the container. That first "pour" sets the foundation for the rest of the wax to cool evenly. Ideally, you want the bottom to start cooling before the top. In my 14+ ounce containers, I don't run into issues using that technique. All in all, adds about a minute to the pouring process--not a bad tradeoff for even cooling!

     

    tried this and still got sinkholes and cracking. maybe i'm pouring too hot for the second pour.  what is your pouring temp on the first "pour" and the second "pour"?

     

    IMG_1204.jpg

  3. hi everyone, pouring at 170-175 F solved my texture problem. my room temp is 67F so pouring hotter helped! 

     

    now i have to figure out how to cool evenly! i am using a cooling rack at the moment. i notice the center takes the longest to cool which is why i'm getting cracks but when i cover the candles, i get sinkholes. any tips?

    • Like 2
  4. i have tried pouring at a lower temp 110F but got cracking and terrible glass adhesion even after pouring slowly and warming the jars.

    any tips for even cooling in jars? do you use a cooling rack or a warm surface?

    i’m going to try pouring at 175F today and see what happens. my environment varies between 68-72F so it is colder than room temp.

  5. 2 hours ago, earthfriendly said:

    Welcome jfc.  I use C-3 although I'm currently taking a break from making candles for awhile.  I heat to 180 and pour between 175-180 and prefer premier wicks.  There are others on this board that use C-3 and have success with CD-CDN wicks and others that have success with different pouring temperatures.  There's a post on here where many were complaining that the C-3 wasn't performing as usual and that maybe the formula had changed.  Just keep on trying and don't give up. 

     

    hi, thank you for your response. i will definitely keep trying. do you get smooth tops pouring at 175-180? i get sinkholes when I pour too high.

  6. On 8/17/2018 at 2:04 PM, CristiLee said:

    I just did my first test pour of c3 and had the most perfect setup!  I don't think the wax would need to even have a heat gun it is so smooth!  I poured at 140F.  I hope it wasn't a fluke... and I hope when I test burn the HT is amazing... waiting on it to cure now.  Did you happen to find a good wick that you settled on?  It's hard because the container plays such a role too, whether it absorbs heat or not, if its fluted, etc.  For my test I went ahead and wicked them the same as I do for 444 in my container.... we will see! FINGERS AND TOES CROSSED!  444 has been less than impressive since this spring for me, used it for a year before that with awesome results. 

    were you able to find an HTP wick that worked well with C3?

  7. On 2/20/2018 at 7:52 AM, mjl89 said:

    Hi, I am new here and have searched all over different discussions and haven't had much success finding an answer to my issue. I am having some MAJOR trouble wicking my C3 wax. I've used almost every single wick there is and still don't know what wick I should be using for this wax. I love C3 and the scent throw it provides, but all of my candles aren't reaching full melt pool. Details of everything are below.

     

    Containers: 3" diameter x 3.75" tall

    Fragrance Load: 6%

    Pour Temp: 160 degrees

     

    I have tried the following wicks:

    HTP 104, 105, 126 and 1212. 

    Premier 765-795

    CD 16-22

    ECO 12-16

     

    None of these reached full melt pool and some immediately started tunneling. The HTP 1212 was recommended to me for my container size and wax type, but the flame dances and flickers like crazy (no draft or anything near by) and still tunneled a little bit. I understand that C3 is a slow burning wax, but is it that difficult to wick? I spent so much time and money on wicks, wax and fragrance and am getting discouraged at this point. I always let my candles sit for at least 72 hours before I test burn. Any recommendations or help would be much appreciated!

    were you able to find an HTP wick that worked well with C3?

  8. hi all, i'm new to candle making and have started using C3 wax. i'm having difficulties with the texture of my candles. i have been getting rough, uneven tops and cracking. i have tried almost every pouring temp between 120-165*F.  i have also tried not adding fragrance oil to see if it was causing the texture but they came out the same. at this point, i have no idea what is causing the texture. i would love to achieve smooth tops with C3 as it is the only wax my local supplier carries. please let me know if you have any advice.

    also, has anyone been successful with HTP wicks and C3 wax? i am using 4oz and 8oz straight glass jars but all i get is tunneling. i also get poor glass adhesion even after pouring slowly. what could be the problem?

    i've read many success stories with C3 but so far it has been a complete nightmare :((((((

     

    IMG_0985-1.jpg

    IMG_0986-1.jpg

    IMG_0983-1.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...