Beth-VT

I'll have to go check my spreadsheet to see if it is calculating inaccurately or I am remembering wrong.

Regardless....it doesn't really matter. Top is technically correct, but the explanation gets pretty confusing for most. The difference is slight, and the only one on the face of the planet it matters to, is you, as the manufacturer of the candle.

Either way is fine, the important thing is that you ALWAYS do it the same way.

Just found this site today.

Floor Length Table Covers

E, those are great prices!! I don't care for the loose corners (they tend to blow around at outdoor shows lol), but it would only take a couple of minutes to stitch them up and make them fitted.....great find

If you don't have a self cleaning oven, just turn it up as high as it will go, probably about 500°. Should take about 30-40 minutes to get a nice deep bronze effect. And turn on the fan, cuz it will stink a bit.

This is for the standard candle tins/lids. Have no idea if this works for vegetable type cans.

My suggestion? Don't buy anything else for a few days. Park your butt in a chair, and read this board. Read for days. Read the stickies for newbies at the top of the forums....just read threads. You will learn more in a few days of reading than you can imagine. You will gain a much better understanding of the cause and effect of doing certain things. You'll understand wicking, waxes, FO's, all that stuff. Then, when you get some more supplies you'll be able to make an educated choice as to what you want/need, and why. HTH.

Jelly jars and mason jars have the same neck (unless you're talking widemouth), they are a 70G.

That's only about 6% so it shouldn't be too much oil, although I think Witches Brew is a heavy one.

You said you pour at 107° but at what temp did you add the oil to the wax? If you add at about 180° you shouldn't have any trouble. If you added your oil at too low a temp, it probably didn't blend thoroughly.

CandleScience. And you can buy smaller qty's than SKS if needed. Great shipping prices.

It depends on your state. In VT, we can't do that without clearly posting what the breakdown is (item price and sales tax).

I figure my show prices to be the item plus tax, rounded to the nearest quarter. Makes for easy change. Then I put out tags on the shelves showing the price with the breakdown in small print below.

You don't mention what kind of wax you're using, pour temps, etc., but when you say "white blotches" that can mean a lot of things. Frosting, fingernailing, mottling.

With the method and stir time you mention, I find it hard to believe it's not fully dissipated.

If you could attach a pic I'm sure it would help a lot with the identification.

I'm with the FO. I have solid white formica countertops in my kitchen and I've had plenty of dye on it. Yet to leave a stain. FO takes it out, DiSolve it (from walMart) takes it out too.

Love the 4045H way better than the 1343, has a better FO load IMO. But it definitely mottles.

FO will work great, just wipe it away with warm soapy water after. Same with DiSolveIt, WD_40 or any citric or oil based cleaner.

Depending on FO, I used a CD-10 or 12.

I've had a Minolta 2300 for 4 years and love it.

I tried to upgrade to the HP 2605dn and had horrible memory issues with it working with my graphics software.

Returned the HP and got another Minolta, the 5440DL and it is da bomb!

If you print on cardstock (or will) be sure and check out any models you're interested in. Many are only rated for paper weights up to 80#.

Yes, big jump. That's two sizes. BCN also carries the 12's.

Kimberly, I keep all my wax stored out in the garage, year round, absolutely no problems.

Awe E.... :( I bet that was a sight to see. (I'm not laughing........really, I'm not). Yes, FO works wonders doesn't it?

I use BCN's liquid dye's. They have switched over to glass bottles w/droppers, so no more "squeeze" incidents. HTH.

run.......away........run.......away........

It's a clear pillar base, not a gel. It's firm, but a royal PITA to work with. Takes a clear overcoat to keep from fingerprinting and the overcoat is some nasty $hit. And frankly, they burn like crap and don't smell worth beans.

It's purely a visual appeal....and very expensive. Not worth it to me.

Being a sole proprietor, is there a need for an EIN? I don't plan on having any employees--basically the SBA told me I could get one and said "Hey, it's free".

But I haven't applied for one.

Just wondering if I should go ahead and get one, and also, what is the purpose of it?

Nope...don't need it. Your state resale/tax # is all you need.

As long as King Leonidas is doing the dipping, I won't mind!

LMAO!!

And, although the shipping company is supposed to collect the brokerage fee AT delivery, if they for some stupid reason leave the package anyway, and then the customer doesn't want to pay the brokerage fee, you as the shipper are responsible and they'll send you a bill. Ask me how I know

That price doesn't seem unreasonable for shipping UPS, but what you're not being told, is the cost of the brokerage fee.....which will probably be more than the shipping fee!!

Look into shipping USPS if it's under their weight limit. The cost is the cost, no brokerage fees.

K, I stand corrected on my post . Good to know, but I too believe there are the additional charges to residential addy's that cancel out the discount, so shipping to s hub, UPS store or other commercial addy sounds like the best bet.

Don't hold your breath on Pourette ever opening up again

BitterCreek North sells wax chunks, HTH.

If you have a UPS hub near you, you can have it shipped to you there and held, then pick up. Or do you know anyone at a business addy (your place of work, a friends, etc?) where it can be shipped?