mao

It really does, the one o added ginger too I couldn't believe how it turned out, but it was perfect. Thanks again there is a handful of you that always seem to get me thru my up hills!

It was easy to make. Using the base I added 1.5 % bergamot, 0.5% eucalyptus and 4% lavender essential oil a 1/2 cup of salt mixture to soap base. I have hard water so it's up to you with salt. The salt mixx is 80% water 10% Epsom n 10% organic sea salt. I'm sure you know to add the salt to boiling water n mix right before adding. It turns soap cloudy n may break apart but I mixed it really good n particles went away but the color I'm not sure if it will come back after sitting. I poured half soap mix into a 10 oz bottle (the little dish soap bottles I found are perfect for testing) I added a half tablespoon nutmeg and than added rest soap. N mixed. Nutmeg is great for mostiterizing. I also made another with same ingredients but added a little bit more than a 1/2 tablespoon of ginger. Ginger is good for fighting aging, elasticity, and firming. The one with ginger came out nice and thick n fluffyish. I may try one with cinnamon n honey for my daughter since CINNAMON is good for acne and honey reduces the redness. I suppose my screwup helped make some item I would of mist likely never tried before. Good luck if you try!!!!and thank you for everyone helping

It worked, it took a bit and I ended up adding jojoba so n more water so I'm just messing around with it. Came up with a great mostiterizing Lavender Nutmeg soap though I put in testers lol, nice thick consistency. But the base is thin. Still not sure though what I did wrong.

Yes, I did and ok thanks I'm going to try adding water and see what happens.

I didn't use the jojoba this time. I normally would of done 7.5 and 57.5 coconut, but I removed it since it wasn't for skin and for cleaning. Do you think if I add water and remix it might be salvageable? 

Yes I was very careful with my measurements, but no it was different looking. When I was mixing it took over an hour and it was thick like taffy when you pull it apart and than turned like a fluff, as if you were beating egg whites. I used 65% coconut oil, 25% grapeseed, and 10% palm with 5.25 KoHat 35% water. Oh I upped the coconut and did not use jojoba this time since I wanted to make it for cleaning I didn't see the purpose for the jojoba. I've read everywhere that KoH is not pure so use -7 on your lye calculation. Is it possible that what I bought is pure and I shouldn't of used a negative number?

I made about a dozen Castile Soaps using different oils to see what I liked the best. This time though I made a larger batch of the soap I use for cleaning and it turned into white powder while cooking. Why did it do this? How can I fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have to agree when I first started, which was not that long ago maybe a few months, the problem was me n not the supplier. Using wrong items, not correct temp, not curing ling enough, over using additives, wrong formula calcs. I use items from NG and my end result is fantastic. Just a FYI

I have not done this, and have a question. If 16 oz of wax turns to 18oz melted do you figure how much FO on pre melted wax or melted wax.

I read on here that soy needs at least a week curing ... Some people found older item they mad that were 3-4 weeks left on shelf and had an amazing throw. I don't use soy because of both those reasons but hope that helps

So exciting I'm at the same time frame you are. Good luck!!

If you like patchouli NG Bitches Brew is kinda like Yankees Witches Brew. And the Berry Bewitching Brew has a bit of sweetness to it. My itty bitty group of testers love them. I used Palm Wax and made a purple/blue color (I normally don't use color) and it makes a cute Halloween melt kinda has hints of almost midnight blue sparkles. I'm sure it would look nice in candles. I haven't gotten that far yet

Ty I will...I read an article online that said to drop the melt point of wax to match the FO flashpoint or it would evaporate so o it confused me. Ty again

I started messing with Palm Wax. It says to heat 200° -210° add FO stir n pour quickly. But if a FO has a flash of say 170° don't I have to wait until it drops to 170°? Im very confused with this. 

Just wanted to say thank you very much for all your help. I fixed melting temp, and played with different combinations of waxes and believe I have found my blend I made a Cinnaberry and Lavender Twist melts last night at 8. Threw one each in a warmer this morning about 2 hours ago and ran to store. Just got home and I could smell them as I was unlocking front door!! Thank you again!!!!

SMH ... Ok thank you. I'm sure I will get this down. I have a mini novel of notes. I really appreciate everyone's input. Thank you!!! The internet is so controversial. I'm glad I found this board, thank you!

Ok...one last question. If you don't mind? If a FO has a flash point of 200, it's ok to add it in at 145-150 than? I thought it had to be added at the flash? Hmph maybe that's my mess up, I just thought of that, ugh.

TallTayl I'm sorry to keep bothering you with questions, but do you feel vybar is necessary in beeswax? I'm not sure if it did anything. But I guess if my wax was way too hot that might have messed everything up. I didn't realize how much is involved. I have so many batches of different mixes that I'm not happy with :/

Thank you for your help

Oh geez I heat the wax to about 200-225. Am I meeting it too high? There is not much about beeswax that I found. I asked the supplier and they weren't sure as they don't use it. I even bought some off a local beekeeper but they had no clue either.

Throw. There is no hot throw. It got better with using 1.5, but than I heard that soy gets stronger after 3-4 weeks curing. So maybe beeswax takes long as well?

Candybee posted this over a year ago, which was extremely helpful for me since I am new to all of this. Hope this helps as shipping cost can be rather expensive.

I'm new to all of this and just starting with wax melts. I am having a very hard time with coconut oil wax. I have mixed it with beeswax, and the HT was horrible I even reluctantly added vybar and still no good. I did a 50/50 mix with parafin wax and it was ok, but I am trying to stay away from paraffin. I upped my FO to 1.5 and they were rather soft. After a week of curing they did  firm up a bit but still a bit squishy  if you firmly pressed on it. I read yesterday were some people found soy candles they forgot about curing a month later and the HT was amazing compared to it 48hr curing or a week. I'm wondering if coconut oil wax is the same way? 

thank you. You have been helpful

Ok thank you. I figured as much but thought maybe someone may have come across something. Thank you!