mao
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Everything posted by mao
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It really does, the one o added ginger too I couldn't believe how it turned out, but it was perfect. Thanks again there is a handful of you that always seem to get me thru my up hills!
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It was easy to make. Using the base I added 1.5 % bergamot, 0.5% eucalyptus and 4% lavender essential oil a 1/2 cup of salt mixture to soap base. I have hard water so it's up to you with salt. The salt mixx is 80% water 10% Epsom n 10% organic sea salt. I'm sure you know to add the salt to boiling water n mix right before adding. It turns soap cloudy n may break apart but I mixed it really good n particles went away but the color I'm not sure if it will come back after sitting. I poured half soap mix into a 10 oz bottle (the little dish soap bottles I found are perfect for testing) I added a half tablespoon nutmeg and than added rest soap. N mixed. Nutmeg is great for mostiterizing. I also made another with same ingredients but added a little bit more than a 1/2 tablespoon of ginger. Ginger is good for fighting aging, elasticity, and firming. The one with ginger came out nice and thick n fluffyish. I may try one with cinnamon n honey for my daughter since CINNAMON is good for acne and honey reduces the redness. I suppose my screwup helped make some item I would of mist likely never tried before. Good luck if you try!!!!and thank you for everyone helping
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It worked, it took a bit and I ended up adding jojoba so n more water so I'm just messing around with it. Came up with a great mostiterizing Lavender Nutmeg soap though I put in testers lol, nice thick consistency. But the base is thin. Still not sure though what I did wrong.
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Yes, I did and ok thanks I'm going to try adding water and see what happens.
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I didn't use the jojoba this time. I normally would of done 7.5 and 57.5 coconut, but I removed it since it wasn't for skin and for cleaning. Do you think if I add water and remix it might be salvageable?
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Yes I was very careful with my measurements, but no it was different looking. When I was mixing it took over an hour and it was thick like taffy when you pull it apart and than turned like a fluff, as if you were beating egg whites. I used 65% coconut oil, 25% grapeseed, and 10% palm with 5.25 KoHat 35% water. Oh I upped the coconut and did not use jojoba this time since I wanted to make it for cleaning I didn't see the purpose for the jojoba. I've read everywhere that KoH is not pure so use -7 on your lye calculation. Is it possible that what I bought is pure and I shouldn't of used a negative number?
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I made about a dozen Castile Soaps using different oils to see what I liked the best. This time though I made a larger batch of the soap I use for cleaning and it turned into white powder while cooking. Why did it do this? How can I fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I have to agree when I first started, which was not that long ago maybe a few months, the problem was me n not the supplier. Using wrong items, not correct temp, not curing ling enough, over using additives, wrong formula calcs. I use items from NG and my end result is fantastic. Just a FYI
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I have not done this, and have a question. If 16 oz of wax turns to 18oz melted do you figure how much FO on pre melted wax or melted wax.
- 11 replies
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- help
- wax formula
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I read on here that soy needs at least a week curing ... Some people found older item they mad that were 3-4 weeks left on shelf and had an amazing throw. I don't use soy because of both those reasons but hope that helps
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So exciting I'm at the same time frame you are. Good luck!!
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If you like patchouli NG Bitches Brew is kinda like Yankees Witches Brew. And the Berry Bewitching Brew has a bit of sweetness to it. My itty bitty group of testers love them. I used Palm Wax and made a purple/blue color (I normally don't use color) and it makes a cute Halloween melt kinda has hints of almost midnight blue sparkles. I'm sure it would look nice in candles. I haven't gotten that far yet
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Ty I will...I read an article online that said to drop the melt point of wax to match the FO flashpoint or it would evaporate so o it confused me. Ty again
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I started messing with Palm Wax. It says to heat 200° -210° add FO stir n pour quickly. But if a FO has a flash of say 170° don't I have to wait until it drops to 170°? Im very confused with this.
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Just wanted to say thank you very much for all your help. I fixed melting temp, and played with different combinations of waxes and believe I have found my blend I made a Cinnaberry and Lavender Twist melts last night at 8. Threw one each in a warmer this morning about 2 hours ago and ran to store. Just got home and I could smell them as I was unlocking front door!! Thank you again!!!!
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SMH ... Ok thank you. I'm sure I will get this down. I have a mini novel of notes. I really appreciate everyone's input. Thank you!!! The internet is so controversial. I'm glad I found this board, thank you!
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Ok...one last question. If you don't mind? If a FO has a flash point of 200, it's ok to add it in at 145-150 than? I thought it had to be added at the flash? Hmph maybe that's my mess up, I just thought of that, ugh.
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TallTayl I'm sorry to keep bothering you with questions, but do you feel vybar is necessary in beeswax? I'm not sure if it did anything. But I guess if my wax was way too hot that might have messed everything up. I didn't realize how much is involved. I have so many batches of different mixes that I'm not happy with :/
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Thank you for your help
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Oh geez I heat the wax to about 200-225. Am I meeting it too high? There is not much about beeswax that I found. I asked the supplier and they weren't sure as they don't use it. I even bought some off a local beekeeper but they had no clue either.
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Throw. There is no hot throw. It got better with using 1.5, but than I heard that soy gets stronger after 3-4 weeks curing. So maybe beeswax takes long as well?
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Candybee posted this over a year ago, which was extremely helpful for me since I am new to all of this. Hope this helps as shipping cost can be rather expensive.
- 4 replies
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- wickless
- melt point
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I'm new to all of this and just starting with wax melts. I am having a very hard time with coconut oil wax. I have mixed it with beeswax, and the HT was horrible I even reluctantly added vybar and still no good. I did a 50/50 mix with parafin wax and it was ok, but I am trying to stay away from paraffin. I upped my FO to 1.5 and they were rather soft. After a week of curing they did firm up a bit but still a bit squishy if you firmly pressed on it. I read yesterday were some people found soy candles they forgot about curing a month later and the HT was amazing compared to it 48hr curing or a week. I'm wondering if coconut oil wax is the same way?
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thank you. You have been helpful
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Ok thank you. I figured as much but thought maybe someone may have come across something. Thank you!