Bia

10 hours ago, wthomas57 said:

 

I think you are looking at this the wrong way. If there is less competition there its much easier for you to stand out than it is in the U.S. They dont have to be luxory candles to do well.

And I agree with Flicker. I have many "cheap" scents that will blow you away. It depends on the FO, wax, process, etc. 

that's exactly what I want to find! the cheap blow me aways ;-)  

On 8/7/2017 at 0:27 AM, birdcharm said:

I read that the Slatkins decided to have scents created for them that were formulated more like perfume than traditional candle scents, with "sophisticated top, middle and base notes."  My guess is that part of it has to do with the composition of the fragrances. 

 

In an article I was reading (not about the Slatkins or Nest), it said that for candle scents to have good throw, they require a strong top and middle note.

 

 

How do we know from an online description that  a scent has strong top and middle note?

22 hours ago, Flicker said:

Most companies have their scents designed for them. Truly, none of the big guns are using stock fragrances, but that also does not mean that you can't buy scents that also are very layered. A lot of scents out there are just as good, or better. Personally I've never been that impressed with Slatkin candles.

I guess I'm having difficulty finding these scents.  I'm putting 10-12% FO in my candles and most have ok CT and HT.  I notice they take hours to fill up a large room. Most of my FO are from CS. My reference was Nest tangerine because I lit it the other day and in 15 mins the room was filled with fragrance.  I'm starting a company in Brasil, an new candle market with few options, the candle buyers are not yet as sophisticated as in the US, so they want to be hit with the CT and HT to be impressed.  The US has gotten over this stage.  Seems the public is choosing more sophisticated, subtle senses.  personally Baies from Dyptique is my favourite, but it costs a fortune, imo.  If only I could replicate that!

On 8/6/2017 at 10:15 PM, moonshine said:

I have them from both places as well and they do not burn the same- at least in my wax

I was trying to switch to the same supplier for all wicks and they must use different suppliers that coat them differently.....

CW seem to burn cooler for me than CS but I don't use LX often at all to have confirmed results for you

I would pick one supplier and stick with them for all wicks you use 

Thank you for your feedback!  Seems I need to stick to the same supplier.  I'm basically going to marry CS.

22 hours ago, Flicker said:

My understanding is there are several variables that can affect the size of the same wick. The wax coating will actually only affect visually, not in terms of the burn. Thicker/thinner coating from batch to batch is pretty common and doesn't affect anything but appearance. Now here is where things change, the machine that is used to tab the wicks, can put a different tension on the wick causing a variant in the finished product. So a wick that is say tabbed by Wicks Unlimited and sold by Bitter Creek may not burn the same as the same size/series wick that is tabbed and sold by Candlewic. Same wick, same size, different burn. I've been told this by several different manufacturers over the years including Wicks Unlimited and Atkins & Pearce.

 

 

Thank you so much for your detailed explanations and for sharing your extensive knowledge, much appreciated!!!  Candlewic responded and said it should burn the same but the wax coating is different.

We have no way ok knowing which manufacturer makes the online retailers wicks... So that means we buy from one, test it, works, stick to it...basically, correct?!  If so, I just lost 200 wicks ;-(((  oh well...

Hello!

I believe NEST has amazing wax and scent throw.  Their wax is probably proprietary... can any of you experts confirm this?

Do you think it has coconut wax?

I'm doing everything right and my candles just don't smell as strong and as good ;-(   I used IGI 4630 and 6006 with the right wicks, they are burning very nicely and CandleScience fragrances.  

How do these amazing companies pull it off?  What do they do differently?

Thanks!

HI!

I bought LX-14 from Candlewic and also from Candlescience and they have VERY DIFFERENT WIDTHS.  One is also lighter in color.

I don't know much about wicks, how they are made or by whom, but I don't want to mess up my testing using these different looking wicks that are supposed to be the same!  Shouldn't the same type of wicks look exactly alike??

Thanks for the light!

here is my wickless candle ready for testing.

when you test with a new wick, how long do you let it burn for?

Sometimes after 10 minutes if the flame is too high or throwing too much soot, I just stop burning it.  I've had this problem with CD wicks, too much soot and high flames when I go by the standard tables.  Maybe I need to wick down on the CDs or switch to ECO?

thanks again!

13 hours ago, Trappeur said:

Bia, rule of thumb is to wick for the bottom.  Containers such as what you are using can be tricky with the middle being the widest and to get a full melt pool by the time you get to the middle it is going to struggle and will take longer to get a melt pool across the top but you need to test to the end because once you get that melt pool and the wax recedes, it will move faster towards the bottom.  Actually I am having this problem right now in an Italian canning jar right now.  It is finally getting a full melt pool, but it is taking 3 days to get across but I let it burn.  But the normal customer will not burn in the proper intervals and will I know extinguish the candle and I know with as much hangup I am having in the middle, it definitely is going to tunnel and have a lot of wax on the sides.  This particular jar a cd16 burned nicely but I would rather have a smaller depth of melt pool wax than I was having on the cd16.  So I did another jar in a cd14 and for me I am not that pleased.  Though it put out a great scent, just too much hangup so I have to find a happy medium.  I wished they made a cd 15....lol...It would be acceptable for me to put out to the public with the cd 16....(I'm such a perfectionist).  I really need to start testing with Premiers as they offer sooooo many sizes and inbetween sizes like what I need.

 

Why don't you post a picture of your jar and tell us what wicks are suggested and what you are using....You can get suggestions here at the forum.

 

Trappeur

Thank you so much! I will test as you suggested and let you know.  I should just stick to standard containers to facilitate my work, but I can't help it when I see pretty glass!  I'll post a picture of the candle later for you to see.

I have used cd 16 and 18 in regular jars with 3in diameter with 10% FO and the flames where so high! I guess I need the cd 15 your talking about!

I also notice some wick charts with increasing diameters would go from an ECO 2 for example to ECO 10 for increase of 0,5in in diameter.  I always thought that was weird...

11 hours ago, divadoll777 said:

Hello,

I'm a newbie to posting but I've been lurking around for quite some time. Thank you to the vets for your wealth of knowledge. 

 

I am having a similar problem with my jars as well. After two, 4 hour burns my melt pool hasn't reached the the edge of my jars. The diameter is 4.7 inches. Very wide. My last test I used two HTP 104's and I was happy with the melt pool but the jar got pretty hot half way down. This time I'm testing HTP 94. I'm using 6006 at 10% load. My jars are metal so they can withstand heat great but of course I want them to be save. Can someone tell me if I should be concerned with how this looks after two, 4 hour burns? 

i've wicked this size candle with 3 wicks and it worked magically ;-)

Hello candle pros!

I bought some cool glass containers that look like stemless wine glasses.  So the diameter in the middle is the widest and the top and bottom are smaller.

When wicking with 6006 IGI wax, 10% FO, using Candlescience wick table, for example, which diameter should I choose?  

Will choosing the largest diameter cause sooting due to larger wick?  Will choosing smaller diameter not be enough?

What do you suggest as a starting point?  I gather the burning will not be regular as the diameter is not regular, so what's the best solution here? Or am I wrong?

Thanks!

Diameter about 3-3.25in.  FO Load about 8-10%.  This goes for both waxes. No dyes.

Thanks again!

Hello!

I'm a new candlemaker so thanks in advance for the expert advice.

I am working with two waxes IGI 6006 and IGI 4630 (I have a good explanation for this which is not important at the moment).

I buy most of my supplies from CandleScience, Candles & Supplies, Flaming Candle, etc.  Each site has various recommendations for these waxes.  I notice for example that CandleScience does not sell many wicks available elsewhere, and therefore only recommend their wicks.

I would like to know which wicks you recommend for these two different waxes.  I have been fairly happy with LX for IGI 4630 (all paraffin).  And I've tested CD 16, 18, 20 with the 6006 and was not pleased because it produced very high flames, lots of dancing and very noticeable soot.

Thanks so much for your help!

Thank you all for your recommendations. The conclusion being there are several good ones but no guarantee all their fragrances are of the best quality. Test, test, test just like in candlemaking ;-)

Overall I have been very pleased with CandleScience.  I have liked a few particular fragrances from Flaming Candle, but many I have disliked and the bad thing about them is they do not accept returns for fragrances.  Which CandleScience does.  I rather buy a lot and dilute the shipping cost and send it back if I don't like it then make several orders of smaller bottles which cost more per ounce.

Thanks for the advice!

Hello,

Where can we buy the best quality fragrances online?  

I have bought from 4 different retailers and have noticed a difference.  Wondering where the more experienced candlemakers (you!) think the best quality fragrance oils can be purchased.

Thanks!

4 hours ago, bfroberts said:

Forget everything you've heard about flashpoints.  Flashpoint is only relevant for shipping purposes. 

I use a lot of 4630.  I heat to 185-190, add FO, stir 1-2 minutes and pour.  You will want to add your FO at around that temp for best results.  Lower and it may not mix well.  FP has nothing to do with it.
I don't know that CS prioritizes FO's for soy.  They do have a soy rating system so buyers will know what to expect when using an FO in soy.  In my experience, the majority of the oils sold by CS work well in 4630 regardless of the soy rating.  Some oils are naturally lighter than others, and testing is the only fool proof way to determine if it's is going to perform well in your application.  

Thank you!!!

4 hours ago, KimmyPee said:

I'm sure others will chime in as well that have way more knowledge than me but my understanding is the flashpoint means nothing more than when the oil will combust when near a flame, and is listed mostly for shipping considerations.

I add my oils at 180, all of them and have no problems with throw, at least not related to that. That's a common piece of misinformation that gets spread around.

As far as CS oils I don't know that they make their oils geared towards soy but they have a leaf rating for those they have found to work well in Soy. I've used their oils in paraffins and blends just fine. 

Thank you!!

Fragrance Oils have individual Flash Points.  CandleScience has them on the label.

I've been told the flash point should be considered when adding the FO to melted wax, and that this process (done successfully or not) will directly affect the candles cold and hot throw.  I've also been told pouring temperature is also a factor in the Flash Point.

Can anyone enlighten me?!

I'm using IGI 4630.

I've also been told that companies such as CandleScience prioritize fragrances that work better with vegetable waxes.  Since 4630 is all paraffin and I buy most of my FO from CS, I really need this information to choose FO more suitable for 4630 and also know exactly how I should treat them.

Chemistry 101 ;-)

Thanks in advance for the helpful information to come ;-)