ellajoan

Crazy, right?  

I got the math wrong, it ended up being 4.20 per TWO candles, not one, so $2.10 per candle, which still seems crazy.  The price for a 16 oz of this FO is 41.95, which adds up to $2.62 per ounce.  I make 8 oz candles (1/2 lb each) and scent at 10% (.8 oz per candle).  .8 x 2.62 gets me about $2.10 of FO per candle.  I wish I could afford the 10 lb drum, but alas, I can not.  

Any suggestions for other Green Clover and Aloe (besides Aztec's)?     

So I have fallen in LOVE with WSP's Green Clover and Aloe (Aztec's paled in comparison), but when I figured out the FO cost per candle, it ended up being $4.20 per candle!!!    I just can't do it!  Just placed an order to try Peak's.  Can you recommend a good Green Clover and Aloe?

And the big question, how much do you figure you spend on FO per candle?

Peak's almond pastries smelled like permanent marker to me.

I am also trying an old (like 2-3 years old) sample of Almond Cakes from Lonestar.  Any side comments on how long FO last when stored properly?

I am trying to re-create the scent of a flaky Dutch pastry made using almond paste.  Every almond I smell is either too almondy, or too artificial.  I have tried Peak's Almond pastries, BB's Almond Cybilla and Almond Biscotti.  I need a sweet, bakery almond that is not too heavy.  Any suggestions?

Because I am simply testing wicks in plain wax.  Once I find one I like, then I'll retest different sizes of that brand w/ FO.  It was a suggestion from Old Glory, I believe.  I can also reuse the wax to test other wicks if I want.  

I'd love to try it as a lot of people loved the old stuff, but my fear is of sudden discontinuation again.  They left many people high and dry.  And I also don't want to start the re-testing process with a new wax.  

Thanks TallTayl!  What exactly is glass glow?  I've heard it referenced but can't figure out what it is.  

Wondering who has used this to harden up the 464 a bit and make for smoother tops between burning.  How did it work for you?  How much did you use per lb?  In researching, is there a difference between Palm Stearic Acid and just Stearic Acid?  Thanks in advance, all!

31 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

I'm using that same jar this year, and it packs a lot of heat when the candle gets low.  I always shoot for some hang up during the first half.  Otherwise, once you get down to the last half, the jar is a scorcher in less than an hour's burn time.
I use 6006 (parasoy) and when I tested CD8, it was too much with all but my hardest to burn FO (Cinnamon Broom). 

Yes.  My CD wick tests have been burning too hot.  I think the CD 10 is also overwicked.  Does Parasoy burn hotter than soy, or vice versa?

45 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

The top picture is strange. From those it looks like the Mp is pretty deep on the two new ones, especially the 750. Could be that they are still pretty freshly made for soy (burning easily and quickly).

 

The second photo looks very different, as if the MP did not reach the edge, or at least on one side I can't tell. 

 

All in all, It is too early to tell on both. I'd Continue to burn these, and make an identical set to cure a week (better yet more) to really get the right sense of the wicking. Like I said earlier, soy benefits from a cure even if no FO. I have realized a difference of one to two wick sizes in the same candles between 2 days and 2 weeks. 

It's not a great photo--bad lighting.  You see the reflection of the jar and you can't really tell where the melt pools are.  Actually, the melt pools were even to the edges and probably about 1/8 inch deep on the 750 and maybe 1/6 inch deep on the CD 10.  This is a MUCH better test than my first CD 12 and CD 14 which were ridiculously overwicked.  But now wondering if it's all for naught, if I should have cured the soy longer.  

Thanks so much, TallTayl.  I have searched many previous posts on here for how long straight 464 (no FO) needs to cure, and Old Glory had said 2-3 days.  I have gleaned a lot of wisdom from both hers and your posts.  I will try to patient and wait longer for the 464 to cure.  

Any advice on how the wicks, flame, melt pool like?  

14 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

How long did they cure before lighting?

About 2.5 days.  They don't have any FO.

More help requested on wicking the 8 oz straight sided w/ 464, no fragrance oil.  From L to R, Premier 750 (first 3 hour burn), CD 10 (first 3 hour burn) and HTP 73 (has been burned for 15 hours).  Any advice or guidance?  I am feeling pretty good about the 750 at this point, but we shall see.  I am so appreciating all of the help!   TIA!

Does Wick-it still do their sample packs?  I really want to try the premier and superior wicks in 464.  About how many do they send?

Does Wick-it still do their sample packs?  I really want to try the premier and superior wicks in 464.  About how many do they send?

1 hour ago, kandlekrazy said:

I like the flame on the HTP the best and honestly I never expect a full melt pool on the first burn unless I do a 6-8 hour power burn.  Weird that the 14 is not performing as well as the 12, are you sure they aren't mixed up?

Yes!  I was meticulous w/ labeling.  So strange!  But I still think it's overwicked.

1 hour ago, TallTayl said:

The CD 12 and CD14 are both over wicked in my opinion. I would go to a CD eight or 10 on those to start. That big of a melt pool this early in the candle and you will definitely have trouble halfway down and further. 

Yes, TallTayl, I think you are correct.  CD 8 and 10 and Premier 750 are my next test wicks.  The glass was also very hot on those both.  

Test with 464, no FO, and the 8 oz straight sided (flint) jar.  Here are photos after the first 3 hour burn using CD 12, CD14, and HTP73 from L to R, respectively.  I think the CD 12 is overwicked, but the CD 14 doesn't look quite as much so (????).  Both CDs had a full melt pool.  HTP 73 didn't get a full melt pool, but awfully close.  Could only get one pic to load, and it's not the greatest.  How deep should the melt pool be after the first burn? Does anyone have a good wick suggestions for this jar and wax?  Thanks in advance! 

I'm starting to do some test batches in jars instead of tins.  How do you all preheat your jars?  Does this give better adhesion to the sides?  If you use the oven, at what temp?  I'm assuming you wick them b/f pre-heating?  So many questions.....

Relatively new to this--been "playing" for about 2 years, did our first craft show Saturday.  Using 464 at this time and looking for kind folks to share what FOs you've had great success with.  We found people were really drawn to the green apple scent, although I think it's HT is iffy.  CT is ok.  FO used was WSP green apple.  Also looking for a decent chocolate, and experimenting with CS Hazelnut Coffee, but still need some good ideas for decent FO in 464.  Thanks in advance!

I am thinking of switching to Pyrex for my pouring pots but have a few questions...

Can you or do you heat these on a griddle before adding wax from a melter or Presto Pot?  If yes, why is it necessary?  Does it take longer with this pouring pot to cool to a pouring temp?  Has anyone marked/painted lines on the outside to determine different amounts (2 lb, 4 lb batch, etc) so you don't have to weigh from the presto pot?  Do you find it too heavy to use when pouring many candles?  Thanks!

That makes a lot of sense--I appreciate your advice.  I will give the CD 12 a try.  I know I had better luck with the ECO 10.  This particular batch of 464 has been an absolute beast to work with--mottled tops, holes, etc.  I have seen that many have had issues with the last few batches of 464, as well.