candlesinflorida

Flat boxes (that ship flat and you fold into a three dimensional box) are very inexpensive and look nice. You could even use black ones-either matte or glossy. And then you can put a label on the outside of the box. Keeps the candles free from debris/dust on the shelves. You can also buy even nicer hard boxes for a little more money. And you can put a card in the box with whatever info. you want. 

That is just an alternative to the hang tags. I also think you don't need to go cray-cray with a ton of info. Everyone knows that candles can cause fires if left unattended and they probably don't even care much about the fragrance name and ingredients, beyond the basics. Just my two cents.

Looks like it is easier to move the restaurant racks, without the candles hitting each other.

I actually just let the candles cool on a piece of newspaper on the counter (which is marble) and then put them in the cardboard divided boxes that the containers came in! Now I wonder if I am missing out on better cooling options! But it seems to work fine without doing anything special.

4 hours ago, Candybee said:

 

Like anything else it takes time and experience to make a great scented and safe candle. Take your time. If you've just started experimenting with paraffin how do you know what works and what doesn't? Its hard to get all that out of just one 10 lb bag. Don't judge a wax until you know it inside and out. Paraffin wax will make an excellent scented candle if you learn how to work with it.

Good advice.

I started out with soy wax about 4 years ago...then about three years ago, I tried to see what the fuss was all about with paraffin and bought a few different brands. It was all a big fail. Maybe I did it all wrong back then.

So now that I am a more of an experienced chandler...I thought I would re-visit paraffin. I imagine that there are better choices than the ones I have used. But I am also a bit concerned with the health issues of breathing in petroleum. I don't want to start a whole paraffin controversy thread-and I have no scientific info. at hand...and maybe I would be ok with the unknown risks, if paraffin were way, way better than soy for me. Maybe I should just stick with soy/coconut/apricot...although I keep wondering if paraffin has better CT and HT and I might be missing out!

Thanks everyone!

Candle Science changed their white straight sided tumblers. They are now much more flimsy looking and are lighter.

Gen Wax has a nice heavy version, but shipping to my state is pricey.

Calif Candle Supply has some nice variety but just looking for any other options. Any links appreciated!

24 minutes ago, kandlekrazy said:

For most of us it is the quantity of each scent you would need to buy.  They don't want to deal with the small operations.  Some of suppliers we buy from do cut the oils and some do not.  Many, Many of the supplier we buy from "own" their scents, so the mfg will not sell you what they have.  It's trial and error but there is the fragrance oil review by supplier section here on the forum that will tell you which fo's work and which do not.  It hasn't been going for a long time but the fragrance one has it just takes more searching.  There are also many threads about "favorite" suppliers.

I will now delve into those sections - thanks

I have just found a manufacturer who will take any scent (one ounce) and create a duplicate for no charge. And the minimum of 25 lbs will be lowered (for a slightly higher per pound price )...and I can have control over the dilution. Message me if you want the info and I will share.

This will seem obvious to many experienced people on here-forgive me for that.

But with so many "middlemen" selling FO, it might be very diluted, is that correct? I am wondering how to get the most concentrated, strongest FO.

And so I am wondering where to find the list of the actual FO big manufacturers and if it is "worth it" to go that route. I imagine there are several places like AFI, that only sell in large quantity?

But.., it sounds like we all DO buy large quantity FO. In fact, I have purchased a big ol gas-can-size from AFI before. 

So is there a reason we don't "skip" the middleman and just buy direct from the manufacturers? Or do the middlemen own the recipes, in many cases? Do they dilute a lot (in general?) Or we like to "sample" things and don't want to commit to such larger sizes of FO?

Again, sorry if these are dumb questions. Just trying to move from little batches...to bigger batches...wisely. And want to be sure I am buying the most potent FO.

I searched and found a thread from a few years ago. but I checked and several of the companies were either out of business or had increased their duplication service rates from $30...to $250!

I have a customer who wants a candle to be scented like an air freshener they use. So I need a great duplication service-any suggestions?

12 hours ago, bfroberts said:

 
Sarah, how is the CBL 125 with wet spots?  I tried a slab of it last year when I was ticked off with 4630,  and it performed pretty much the same as 4630 as far as wicking and throw, but I didn't take much notice of wet spots.  I made a few holiday candles with it and they are long gone.  My 4630 candles look so dang horrible lately with all these tiny wet spots.  I'm ready to ditch it again, so I was considering ordering a case of CBL-125, but I'm on the fence.

Just a thought....I have switched to solid white containers to avoid caring about wet spots! When I can't see them, it is like the aren't there! Every time I go back to clear containers, it is heat gun time...with almost any wax.

12 hours ago, TallTayl said:

From what I’ve seen, the polymorphic soy crystals develop and strengthen bonds over time.  Plus, organic waxes continue to evaporate latent moisture remaining from the manufacturing process. Both of these things amount to a hotter, dryer flame which can more efficiently burn fuel and throw it into the air.

 

i’ve had great HT on a 2 day old soy candle that completely flops a couple of weeks / months out. The initial wick was great for a soft-ish damp-ish wax, so by the time the crystallization process finished the wick was not nearly hot enough. And of course vice versa.  

 

Soy (and other natural waxes) do contain a range of moisture. Some cases you open and they feel noticeably wet, while others are crispy and dry. This throws off wicking really badly.  I’m sitting here frustrated that it happened again, with C1 this time. My new cases are initially several sizes off from my last lot. 😖🙈 I will need to age this wax a few months to see if that changes (which I suspect it will).

 

many of these irritating things can be tamed to a degree with paraffin. Paraffin waxes have. More stable crystal structure, are inert and don’t tend to change much, if at all, over time. 

 

SO helpful-thank you!

8 hours ago, Laura C said:

 

Hi @candlesinflorida, I'm in FL too, aren't we lucky? LOL. Anyway, the odd smelling candles you are referring to, did you use liquid dye in them? Reason I ask is because I get a plastic/chemical sort of smell from my wax melts, whether I use soy or paraffin, and it's coming from the horrible stench of the liquid dye that I used in them. This includes wax melts I made in plastic clamshells and also loose wax melts. Needless to say, I'm not going to use that particular liquid dye anymore.

Hi fellow Floridian! Are you in South Fl too?

I actually got the smell right out of the bag-the pellets smelled like motor oil. When heated, the scent wafted through my house. In the finished candles, the FO helped mask the motor oil smell. In fact, now that they have been technically curing for a week, they smell good. But I don't care to work with the wax again, thanks to the initial stink!

1 hour ago, Sarah S said:

 

Ok, you guys know what I'm going to say, right?

 

😂

 

Candlewic's CBL-125

 

That stuff is foolproof, super easy wax to use with great results. It's a paraffin with additives.

Their CBL-130 is also great, it's a parasoy blend.

Two new ones to try!

And I assume you like them much more than a straight soy wax?

12 hours ago, Forrest said:

Curing in soy wax is a process that continues for a long time, but the rate of curing slows. Paraffin wax cures much faster. I've been making 8oz tins with 4630 and after a week they have great HT, the same candle made with 6006 needs a month or more to reach that level of HT because it is 30% soy. I suspect that most of the time candles that are being sold have some time between when they are poured and when they are burned. The 4630 has been an easy wax for me to work with and to wick.

Do we know the science behind the need for curing to create good HT? Just wondering why the candle would need to sit for longer than merely cooling, to bind “more”. I don’t completely doubt it...just interested in the science behind it.

I have seen a couple wax manufacturers state not to do anything that quickly cools their wax, I guess because of the cracking or pulling.

I am very curious to see your results.

I have been obsessed with mixing and pouring temps and have done are sorts of litttle experiments with a microscope to see what temps are necessary to get the FO to properly bind with the wax. 

Interestingly, I saw a video from candle cocoon that used a heat gun AS the mixing was happening...to keep the mixture hot for bettwr blend and HT. It takes a little coordination! They also say to swirl to create a whirlpool so the FO doesn’t sit at the bottom. (While holding a heat gun in the other hand!) 

not directly related to curing-but I sure do like experiments!! 

8 hours ago, Forrest said:

What paraffin did you use? I've been using IGI 4630 and it has worked  very well for me and doesn't smell at all. I use it when I want a candle that is ready to burn in a week. I think your problem may be specific to the paraffin you have. My main was is IGI 6006 which is a paraffin soy blend which I like, but the cure time is pretty much like pure soy.

Do you find that the 4630 gives you way better results than a soy-only wax? I usually use GB 464 and it was great...not sure why I even messed with a good thing, but oh well. 

Maybe I will try the 4630z

regarding cure times, I am really guilty of ignoring them for the most part. I have received many “last minute” orders of 70-100 at a time and the turnaround was pdq. I often light candles just after 1-2days bc of impatience. 

First off, I can’t wait to sit down and watch that video! What a build-up!! Candle drama

i have been so interested in what Jo Malone does for their candles. I am basically a Jo Malone soy wannabee. I personally WOULD spend more to emulate their wax blends, because I am just like that. Even if just to try it all out.

To answer the question about which paraffin...it is Kerax 4105.

got it from the UK. Shipping was crazy but again, no one has ever called me practical when it comes to all this.

3 hours ago, Sheree00 said:

Hello wonderful people!! I hope everyone is doing well. I have a question or 2 😊. I’m currently testing 464 w/8oz jelly jars, using 6% FO and 3 different wicks. I found out that I overwicked big time. I used a CD 10,12,14.... I am going re-test using CD 8 and 10s. For some reason I feel like because the jars are tall and kinda skinny, there is going to be black smoke/soot on them anyways. Again, I’m new to candle making and don’t know anything. I’m thinking about switching jars and going to 8 or 9 Oz straight sided jars but not sure. I know I have to test test test and more testing. I want to know if anyone uses jelly jars and if so even with the correct wick is there black soot on the jars as the candle burn low?!?! 

Thanks in advance. 

Can’t answer the specific jelly car ? Bc I only use straight sided tumblers but wanted to tell you that candle science has an excellent wick chart. You can either plug in your wax and jar diameter and it will calculate the best wick size -or just click to see the whole entire chart. Good luck! 

9 hours ago, Forrest said:

I believe that soy and soy blends can match, or possibly exceed the HT of paraffin if given enough time to cure, but in today's world  manufactures want to minimize the time it takes to get their product to the consumer. I have seen some high-end candle makers that use soy blends.

 

That is interesting. I don’t love the HT of the paraffin candles I made-they are strong, but there is an unmistakable hint of petroleum or fuel scent in the air. And the unmelted pellets smell horrible to me. 

Going straight back to soy!  

I know this thread is several months old-just wanted to say thank you for all the wisdom. I was about to embark on putting the candle brand logo as an embed on top of some candles, but thought it would be a good idea to get some good tips on how to do it (since that could be faster than making all the waxy messy mistakes I know I would do LOL)!  I think I will give it a try this week-but didn't want to do so without giving credit where credit is due,  so thanks again 

I have a customer who is interested in replicating a particular scent for her boutique. The scent is actually from one of those fragrancing companies that leases/services electric air fresheners for the establishment. This is a system like what is used to scent hotel lobbies...the industrial air fresheners that scent thousands of square feet at a time.

So...I figured out the company that makes the scent, but it is so random that I don't think I could find a dupe. I am considering having a custom dupe made, which looks like it will cost about $250 to do. I am also wondering what exactly the fragrance they use, is made of? I am pretty sure it would not be a good idea to use it as a FO to make candles...since that is NOT what is was made for, of course, and could be dangerous or unhealthy. But I can't seem to figure out if this is basically the same type of formulation as a FO.  Does anyone know?

Thanks everyone! I started experimenting with one 10 lb bag of paraffin wax, just to see if the scent throw was possibly anything particularly exciting. In my experience, it wasn't. But I was wondering if shipping from overseas/shelf life was a big factor. Thx for the input

On 5/11/2019 at 7:22 AM, Clear Black said:

 

Sounds like you are thinking this through all the way. Would love to see the results at some point! 

me too

I would like to see my results!

On 4/27/2019 at 6:40 PM, Trappeur said:

I know!   Was that something?   I never went in there to pickup an order......just to bring a surprise collection for her for Easter.  She is a good good client.  I already make her the large 20oz tureens and the little 5oz italian mason jars so now she has these.   See it's amazing...my biggest store I sell to which is the apple orchard has the same exact pint canning jar that they sell for 14.00 a jar and here is another store just a couple miles down the road but in the heart of the business district and gets 20.00 a jar.   It just goes to show how well you how you could have the same product just a few miles down the road and present them to sell in an entire different type of setting/theme of your shop and it makes all the world of difference.   Granted I've decorated them much different and just by adding a tiny detail like the rust star makes or breaks it.   The apple orchard they just shove the candles in and on a shelf and that's it.   Nothing appealing to the display setting here what so ever.   All the people care about is seeing the name of the shop on the label and they are sold.   Now this other account is a beautiful classy home furnishings shop - just beautiful.   She takes the time to set up the beautiful display of the candles and is very meticulous about how each and every product is displayed in her shop.   Now she can command more money and she gets it.   And we both are happy.   The apple orchard the pint jar I wholesale them for 7.50 but I'm getting ready to up them to 8.00 a jar and they sell them I think for 14.95    And this other shop I wholesale them for 9.50 a jar and she gets 19.95 a jar.....

I run to Save a Lot to buy my jars for 6.99 a case (no shipping) and all I have to do is change out the lids.   Now I have to order these lids from Fillmore who is out of stock on them.   I combed and combed the internet for this lid and no one else has it unless I want to pay 1.99 a lid....I need to be able to get these lids as they make the candle and now I'm sweating buckshot thinking I'm going to have future problems....Surely someone else out there carries them???So the hunt continues....

 

Yep 100 candles.  I've come a long long way in this candle business.   I used to make like maybe 15 to 20 candles a day.   Now I can knock out 100 a day easily.  Lots of little things I've learned along the way to speed up production and I do them all by myself in my jammies or sweats.  ha ha ha

 

Trappeur

 

 

#candlegoals!!

So impressive! 

I love this topic. Branding has been taking up a lot of my time-I think it is incredibly impt!! Would be interested in how you are proceeding and happy to give any feedback or input. 

For me, I have a very specific vibe I am going for and I have a lot of inspiration boards of the look I am going for -on my pinterest acct. i am now in the process of bringing it all together...meshing my web site look, fragrance names, container style...everything...to make it all cohesive. It is a whole separate enterprise apart from the candle making.

I am also working on SEO and social media marketing and will be talking to a professional branding person too. 

On 3/6/2019 at 11:13 AM, Trappeur said:

If we got enough of us, I would go in on this order and order maybe 200 jars.

 

Trappeur