runner14jc

11 hours ago, Hopie said:

Oooooo! I don't see it on their site....is there a link?

The prices aren't different on the site but if you add the 1 oz bottles to your cart you will see a discount show up to apply the sale pricing. I was a bit confused yesterday as well since I didn't see the pricing  

Personally, I prefer the ECO series for 464 but the CSN will work in that wax as well. I think they have a sample pack of both so you may want to test both series and see which you prefer.

Not my favorite fragrance but I just made some melts with it this past weekend and can't tell a difference from the old version.

Hi! I pick a couple of days a week and then either use the early morning before work or the hours when I get home. It can vary from week to week depending on my schedule and any other events going on. Weekends for sure are my main dedicated times though.

Have you ever tried double wicking? 4" wide containers with 464 can be difficult to get a full burn with a single wick. Testing (2) ECO 6 wicks may be worth a try if you have some on hand. 

Not sure if plastic lids would work for your product line. But, Oui sells lids and encourages second uses for their containers! You can find them here: https://www.ouibyyoplait.com/lids/

I have seen similar cracking like you showed in your picture. Usually, when I've seen it, it has been with wax blends and temperatures being too cold. I'm not quite sure what else could cause it. You mentioned the room was 75*, what temp did you pour at and do you usually pre-heat your containers? I typically use 464 more than any other wax but I do know that I often have to change my pouring temperature with different batches of wax and through different times of the year.

15 hours ago, Jeana said:

 

I actually mix 464 with 4630 now. Sometimes it makes it worse. Like right now it is making it harder, which I think is contributing to the cracking. I order from Candlescience right now. They have the 4627 and 6006. Their reviews complain about the 6006 having a lot of soot, and inconsistencies of batches too. I saw 4633 too I may order a sample of that one next time. I have tried the 4627. I found it hard to wick.

Have you personally used the 6006?

When I go to the candle isle at different stores, I get so jealous of how nice, creamy, and consistent other people's candles look.  I have candle envy lol.

Hi Jeana! The 6006 works wonderfully, it just takes a bit of patience to get your wicking down as you get started. Once the right wick is in place with my fragrances and fragrance load, I don't have any issues with excessive sooting. I think it is a great alternative to creating your own blend, which it sounds like you already do. 

Hi Jeana! Have you ever tried the IGI 6006, it is a pre-blended parasoy. Or, you could always create your own blend. If you have 464 left, you could blend it with a paraffin wax like the IGI 4630. That way you could control the ratios and see what works best for you. Alternatively, if you prefer to switch straight up to paraffin the IGI 4630 or IGI 4627 work beautifully. The 4630 comes in a slab and the 4627 is super soft so comes in a bag and needs to be almost scooped out (yes, it's a bit messy but produces some great results). For West coast suppliers, I know CandleScience has a warehouse in Nevada. I've heard there is a supplier in southern California but I'm not sure the name but you might be able to find it with some searching. Hope this helps!

23 hours ago, ellajoan said:

Kind of loving the new Bamboo Coconut!  What else should I try?

I love the Grapefruit Mint too! Definitely worth a try

Beeswax can be fragranced, I would recommend avoiding bakery/food type smells though as I've never had good results with them in beeswax. Other fragrance types like florals tend to do well. It always takes testing though since the beeswax usually has it's own natural, earthy smell. 

On 3/2/2018 at 5:25 PM, katmeltswax said:

Does your 230 have a strong vinegar type odor? I ordered both 220 &230 samples from Candlewic, could not get passed the horrible smell .I am glad to hear your getting good results .I have not heard many reviews on this new wax .

It can absolutely have a vinegar odor right at first. However, once I allow them to cure for 1 1/2- 2 weeks, it is not present at all. The first few days after making them, you may still smell the vinegar, but I promise, it disappears completely and after curing you will only smell the fragrance! I love it!

On 2/28/2018 at 6:44 PM, hellkat said:

 

 The CS one came in a Tupperware like container (handy for now storing my EO's and dyes) but after seeing these I would have to say it looked like the CS one had melted some at one point and had a bit of a dry but frothy look on top? Or is that the nature of goats milk? It didn't seem rubbery at all and cut really nice both before and after. 

 

 

 

 

 

I've been told that the frothy look on the two lb trays of Stephenson's base is caused by the pouring process. As the manufacturer pours the base into the trays, it can cause that frothy look at the top from a little bit of air getting incorporated. I've never had it interfere with the performance of the bases though. My favorite Stephensons base right now is the Triple Butter!

I know there have been some negative feelings towards the new EcoSoya waxes. However, I have fallen in love with the new Q230 for tarts/clamshells. I agree that it is a bit too soft to want to use it for pillars, but for clamshells it is perfect! I use a 9-12% fragrance load, add fragrance at 185*F and pour into my clamshells at around 170*F. They do take at least a week and a half to 2 weeks for the best cure, but it has been well worth the wait. The cold and hot throw has been amazing! I would definitely recommend giving that wax a try if you haven't. Oh, and the wax really holds color well which is a plus too!

Great question for discussion TallTayl! I feel like pricing is the area where most business owners, especially handcrafters, struggle. It is a balancing act of taking into account all the costs of products, shipping, packaging, time, labor, and still trying to be fairly and competitively priced for your target market. Part of me wishes that every small business owner could find the time and availability to take some simple business courses to help navigate how to price items. I learned my lesson recently when I accidentally discovered an item that was showing on my Etsy wholesale price sheet that I only intended to have available on my regular Etsy. The wholesale order came through and it would have cost me to accept the order. That situation forced me to take some time out to review everything and go over all of my pricing to ensure that I didn't put myself back in that situation.For me personally, it is easy to get wrapped up in the fun of creating and push aside the business aspect of things. Definitely something to work on.  

Wet spots are super common and tend to crop up more when candles go through different temperature changes. For example, if they are stored in one temperature, then put on a cold mail truck for transport, and then moved back into a warmer environment, it can cause wet spots to crop up. This is a common nuisance for all candle makers. If you go look at candles for sale in any store you will see the same issue  The good news out of it is that it does not affect the strength or burn of the candle. However, they are definitely annoying from an aesthetic standpoint for your products. 

Not to throw out yet another option for you, but have you tried the ECO series of wicks. They tend to do really well in the IGI 6006 wax. For a mason jar or canning jar an ECO 8 would probably be a good starting place for testing. Not sure what you have tried already though.

Layers can be tricky. The key will be to not pour too hot for your second layer. For the first layer, a helpful trick to know if it is hard enough to pour another layer is to blow gently across the surface. If it ripples, don't pour a new layer yet. Once it no longer ripples, you are ready to pour a new layer. Spritz generously with rubbing alcohol and make sure your next layer is at or below 125*F. If it is too hot, it will be at risk of breaking through your first layer. It does take lots of practice and even when you think you have it, you may run into some trouble. Another trick I have seen is that if the layers fall apart, keep some clear base on hand and you can use it as a glue if you are in a pinch 

Every soap base will cool a little faster or slower too which can be aggravating. Goats Milk and Shea Butter bases tend to cool really fast so simpler designs or re-heating them every once in a while can be necessary. Some other bases, you may find you get more working time from them before they start to skin and harden on you. I recommend trying several different bases as you get started and find the ones you like. I usually choose a white and a clear that I prefer to keep on hand and then play with other bases depending on what purpose I am trying to achieve.

I've found that everything in my pouring environment affects how the wax cools and finishes. Most of the year I can pour at 135*F with no issues, in the colder months, I have to pour hotter (between 150-160*F) to achieve the same results. I also discovered that pouring in different areas affect things. I think due to how the airflow is. In my main pouring area I have it down to a science, but if I switch where I pour, I always have to go back to the drawing board on pour temp. My favorite tool is my heat gun though. It saves me from doing a second pour or being stuck with cracks or sinkholes when I do have issues. I highly recommend getting one if you don't have it already. 

Has anyone found a supplier other than Lonestar that is selling it yet? Here in the US that is?

For me, I definitely prefer container candles. They tend to be more popular with my customer base and honestly, pillars just frustrate me  Every once in a while I give them a try again, but my go-to is container candles. I love looking at carved candles though! That is a talent for sure!