candlefolks

I've tried many wicks and ended up using the HTP-126.

I don't mind making them either. I use the metal molds and have used the EL soy, plain ol' paraffin and palm wax and don't have to re pour. They sell depending on the general economy around here. If people can afford the bigger they go that way otherwise they buy the small stuff like tarts and votives. Only thing I can't stand is cleaning all those molds after each batch. Can't tell ya how many times I've sliced my fingers doing that. Whenever I get new votive molds, I take the time to use a fine file and emery cloth to lightly shave the edges and smooth them. Haven't had a cut since.

Ear candles are easy to make once you have all the kinks worked out. That's how we got started in the candle business; we couldn't find a quality ear candle in the stores, so we decided to make our own. It took a lot of experimenting to find the right muslin, a process for making the ear candle forms and the proper temperature to dip the form with the rolled muslin into the beeswax. We've sold lots over the last few years, and everyone says they're the best they've found. There are lots of people, including "experts" who say the ear candling process can't and doesn't work, however we just go by what people we know tell us, and what we've witnessed. There have been some pretty impressive results, so we don't really care what the scientists and medical community think. Ear candling has been around for centuries in many different cultures. If it's survived that long.....maybe there's something to it. We've bought ear candles that dripped hot wax into the ear, smoked, flared - you name it. There's some really awful product on the shelf. I'm not sure I can "tell" you how to make them. There are so many different types of unbleached muslin, etc. We started by having a friend make us a master wooden form to wrap kraft paper around, to make the dipping forms. It's a little longer than 12 inches it's cone shaped with the top 3/4 inch diameter, the bottom (that goes into the ear), 3/8 inch. Around this form we wrapped a strip of kraft paper from narrow end to wider end, taping it at the top to hold it's shape. We sealed the small end with silicone caulking so the wax can't run up inside the form when we dip it. Next, a strip of muslin is wrapped around the form. The strip we use is 40 inches long, and 1-1/4 inches wide (the width of a metal ruler, which we use as a cutting guide. We fold the fabric so it's four thicknesses, and cut it with a large rolling cutter and mat (Olfa). Start winding at the small and and work up the form to the large end. The fabric MUST overlap at every winding. When you dip the ear candle you do NOT want any wax soaking through the fabric to the inside. I think that's why some ear candles drip wax into your ear, or plug up and are useless. Secure the top winding to the paper form with a paper clip at the top. We always trim the loose ends of fabric from the candles before dipping them, using nail clippers. Any threads that stick out when they are dipped can become sharp points. Enough beeswax needs to be melted to fill a container over 12 inches high. We started out with two large tomato juice tins soldered together (leadless), but later bought a galvanized dipping container from Pourette. The wax must be 158 degrees F, plus or minus about 2 degrees to deposit the correct amount of wax on the form. The form is the wick, just like a regular candle, and controls the burn. If the wax is too hot, it will permeate the fabric. We do not heat the beeswax directly on the burner, but have a larger container filled with water into which we suspend the dipping container holding the beeswax. You will have to weigh or tie the dipping container down, or it will float - beeswax being lighter than water. We take the paperclip off and replace it with a plastic clothespin, the type with a loop through the top for hanging undies. Dip the ear candle form into the wax until it's very close to the top over about 3 seconds, then withdraw it over the same period of time. Hold it just over the pot until it stops dripping (just a few seconds). Then we hang the loop on the clothespin on a hook, attached to a thin metal pipe which is suspended horizontally over the working area. We just used heavy gauge electrical wire and made the hooks. By the time we dip a dozen ear candles, the first ones are ready to be taken off the form. Just release the clothes pin, put a finger inside the large end, and turn the paper form. Which way will be determined by which way you wound the form. You want to turn it in the direction that makes it a bit smaller so you can easily remove the ear candle off the form. The small end will be sealed with wax. We have a groove in a board, which is the shape of the ear candle; set the candle in the groove with the small end overhanging, take a very sharp utility knife and slice a bit of the small end off to open up the candle. It will become obvious how much to remove. Then we inspect the candle to make sure there is no wax inside. Also we again trim off any threads, specially at the small end that will fit in the ear. You want the first inch to be as "smooth as babies bum"; the ear is very sensitive. The top end will have loose threads, but these don't matter at all. The last thing we do is run a band of red ink around the candle 4-1/2 inches from the small end. This is where the candle can be burned down to. If the ears are producing a lot of wax into the candle, you may start burning ear wax if you continue burning any lower. See, nothing to it! Hope this gives you an idea of where to start. We almost always use four candles per session, two per ear for adults; rarely 6 in severe cases, never more. Each candle burns approximately fifteen minutes, so it takes just over an hour to do. Sometimes the first candle is more productive, sometimes the second. Not getting into how to do the process here...

If you are oiling your molds for release, that will make them smoke.

A very nice windfall! Twigs & Berries and Green Tea have been 2 of our top 5 sellers.