tamtam

I use Pringles cans all the time. I never had any problem with leaking, but I don't pour it in when it's boiling hot. It works great for chunks, curls, other embeds. Here is one example, made with rose geranium EO, I called it Rose petal. whoa sorry the pic is so big. I'll post more pics of other examples. <a href="http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l81/dulcigirl/?action=view&current=DSCN0052.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l81/dulcigirl/DSCN0052.jpg" border="0" alt="soap"></a>

Soap Gems- really cool, check out this site www.tspink.com and there is a tutorial on this site. www.teachsoap.com There is another tutorial that I found once, with alot more detail, I will post it if I can go back and find it. I tried it once, but haven't had the time to get into it again. I think it would take alot of trial and error to figure it out, but obviously it can be done. http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32749&highlight=soap+gem

Look on etsy for inspiration... I found this great swirl. \

I would like to see a video tutorial of a really good swirl technique. I've read all the instrucitons I can find, and I have had some success, just trying different things, but a tried and true technique would be great. Also video demonstrations of pouring layers, showing the thickness of the soap at different stages and when to pour, etc. This would be really helpful to newbies without much experience. Once you do it awhile, you figure it out, but it would have been helpful to me in the beginning. I think the base you use makes all the difference, the SFIC is the best IMO. My soaps always turn out great, I add a dab of liquid soap to up the lather, one TBSP/pp of an oil mixture called Africas best herbal oil, then other things like herbs, oatmeal, honey, aloe, cocoa butter. I have found this general recipe turns out a bar that is hard, with a rich creamy thick lather. I don't follow any recipes, I make each batch with the same basic ing, and customize each one as I go. I have never had a problem in getting layers to stick, as long as the bottom layer is still somewhat warm and spritzed with alcohol. Let's see some pics in the gallery of some MP creations!

It seems that this topic comes up fairly regularly. I found this pic of a pretty swirl. Just an example of what is possible.

here's another sorta swirl http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=8978315

It does take alot of practice to get any kind of swirl, but it can be done. I found this cool example. This would be easier to to just swirl on the bottom. http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=9139101

yes I have made quite a few of them, search the BB gallery forum for felted soap and you will see my post with pictures. if you have questions about making them, feel free to ask.

I want to make some chocolate mint M&P. What should I use for a dark brown color...? cocoa powder? will that give it any chocolate fragrance, I use only EOs so I don't have a chocolate FO. I figure I will have to use clear base for the chocolate to get a brown, it would be too hard to get it in the opaque. thanks for any suggestions!:rolleyes2

I checked out the site for the MP base, but they don't list their ingredients,, the reason I use SFIC is it has no detergent ing. I feel like if you are making soap with SLS, its no better than commercial detergent soaps. Do you know what their ing are?

I have only used SFIC, and chose it over Stephenson because it has alot less 'chemicals' added to it. It lathers and performs well, I have never had a problem with it.

Interesting discussion, most folks who use my MP soap love it, I do add extra stuff. I use SFIC since it is the least artificial or chemical ridden base out there. I know its not the same as CP, but is is still SOAP and not detergent like commercial bars. I label mine as handCRAFTED because I don't want to misrepresent it. I sell CP too made by some local ladies and sell them both equally. I feel that the MP is still better than detergent bars most people use that don't know any better... which is the majority of folks out there. I tend to use my MP for hand soap and CP for showers..just my 2 cents.....

I always add oils either while it is melting or as soon as it is melted. While it is still hot, so it will blend into the soap.

yes I too agree that she is using EOs. you can use a medicine dropper very carefully to dispense the drops. A general rule of thumb for EOs is 1 teaspoon per pound.

thanks for the suggestions, I will try one of those, I don't want the STephenson cause I want a detergent free base. Thats why I was wondering about the WSP (Crafter's Choice is what they sell),it seems to be the same formulation as the SFIC.

I need to order some more clear base, last time I got in on the SFIC co op. I can't really order directly from them, due to minimum order req. So I'm wondering about the WSP 'natural' base, is it as good as SFIC? anyone try it? I can get it in 24lb blocks, that would be about right. Thanks for any info, or another site to order SFIC that is fairly cheap.

I usually add oils to my M&P, but then I also add a dash, about 1 TBSP pp, of Dr. Bronners liquid soap. My soaps have incredible creamy lather. Try it, it really works. Some also claim that adding sugar(somehow??) will help with lather. You need to use a good quality base to start with, some of the cheaper ones don't lather well.

WOW :highfive: I've done some that are almost that good, and you're right it takes alot of experiment with temps and timing. I found that the clear seems to be 'heavier' and wants to sink to the bottom. thanks for the inspiration, I guess I'll be trying some more tonight!

HOLY MOLEY!!!!!! That is the best thing I've ever seen! You have totally outdone yourself this time and are an inspiration to everybody. let's see it cut!!

I really like the soap gems/rocks I have seen. THis is my first attempt- a rose quartz. It was hard to get a good picture, but it came out pretty good and gave me an idea about how to do it. I made them in a paper cup, with chunks, clear overpour and some pearl mica. Scented with rose geranium EO. I can't wait to try some others.

I think putting them in the freezer causes more sweating. I never put mine in the freezer, I leave them overnight to harden, unmold, let them dry out a bit on a rack near or over the AC vent, then wrap and I never have a problem. I live in NC and its very humid here. I think the quality of the base makes a difference too.

WOW~!! Those are awesome! I have been wanting to try this for a long time, I found a great tutorial somewhere, I'll have to dig it out again. I bought lots of mica in a co-op mainly to try these. The only problem is how to wrap them!! I don't have shrink wrap so I need to figure out an alternative, maybe little cello bags.

I'm the one who adds the liquid soap. I got that tip from another board, and I do that since I add some other oils that probably will cut the lather. I use SFIC base and with the added liquid, I always have good creamy lather, no problem. I think the base makes all the difference as others have said.

yep I think it was waaaayyy too much additive for only 4 oz of soap. The general rule of thumb is usually 1 TBSP of oil or butter per POUND of soap. I've never had any problem using those amounts. Keep that in mind for future reference, and I think you'll be pleased with the results.

Yes these are like a washcloth and soap in one, great for camping, and gardeners love them. they are exfoliating and actually soft, not scratchy. They are sooooooo easy to make once you get the hang of it. The link someone posted is a good place to start. The wool continues to shrink around the soap as it is used up. If you do sell them, make sure to tell customers to squeeze out excess water and keep dry between uses. another tip, if you use rectangular bars, round all the edges before felting. It takes about 1/2 ounce of wool for a 4-5 oz bar, costs about .80-1.00 for the wool.