emilyspoppy

This is what I was told by the woman that answers: Husband does website & emails, eventually! I believe he's ill so that could be why site is not accurate & emails are not returned. Keep trying, she even weighed the VBN for me.

Thanks, friend!

I'll call for awhile today to try and get through. I'll be leaving very early tomorrow for medical testing and most likely won't return home until very late. If I do, however, manage to "connect", I'll send you a PM.

Thanks again!

"Dave in Muggy Maryland"

Tennessee still has a little over a LB left of the VBN. Talked to them today, HURRY![/quote

Thanks for letting me know!

According to what remains in stock, they list "Vanilla" and not "VBN". Regardless, I called them, but alas and sadly, there was no answer or answering machine to leave a message. I was also interested in their Coconut FO. Dang!

I may try again later.

Essential oils have been used for centuries for medicinal purposes. Certain oils can be toxic and should be used with caution. Some people may have an allergic reaction to an oil or combination of oils and that's serious business. Its best to buy a good handbook explaining the oils and their properties and what levels are recommended for safety purposes. I guarantee that when some company states that their fragrance oil contains an essential oil(s) it's a pretty small percentage of the formula. Essentials are too blasted expensive to make much profit and a little goes a long way. The "natural" label is a hot button topic and some folks kinda think its marketing hooey and some folks market their product as an all natural product that has some kind of health benefit (sinus candles, ear candles, lotion candles); it all takes a knowledge of your raw products. HTH Steve

You're on a roll, Steve!

More great advice.

Dave

It's not a big deal. You might get more response and then again maybe not. Summertime is pretty light for discussions. The melting point of a wax is simply information to let you know at what temp the wax will liquify. Low temp melt points usually mean soft wax and higher melt points are usually harder. You want your tart to melt at the temperature of an average melter (electric or tea light) so if its too hard, the wax won't melt and if it's too soft it won't hold up on a hot summer day. Blending wax with different melting points and fragrance loads changes the original purpose of the wax. My advice would be to go with a wax and learn all about it before you start blending. It takes a bit of testing and time to learn about a particular wax. Go to the fragrance section and click on suppliers and read through their products and the prices and then pick one and begin testing. You want a tart that will fragrance for a good deal of time and one that melts completely within a reasonable time. That sounds simple but believe me, its not. HTH

Steve

This post should be chiseled in stone for novice tart makers.

Nice job, Steve!

I'd add as a personal touch; If you're undecided about what wax to start with for making melts you should consider Candlewic's CBL-129. It's the best I've encountered so far.

http://www.candlewic.com/store/Product.aspx?q=c69,p526&title=Container-Blend-Wax---CBL-129

JMO/HTH

Dave @ Charlotte Hall Country Candles

I agree BC is a nice scent. But I already have a go to powder scent. I love CS Baby Powder in both soap and candles. I love it alone and its an awesome mixer. Try it with lavender.

You're so right, as usual!

I haven't posted on this thread until now because, like many other crafters, it would be impossible for me to claim only one favorite fragrance oil. Some of my "best" that I really like I designed myself, too.

I will, however, after consideration, comment that the fragrance I was happiest to find was Peak's "Wild Mountain Honey". The discovery ended what was a nearly decade long search for a true and strong honey fragrance. For me it works really well as a straight fragrance or a wonderful mixer in wax, lotion and M&P soap. It can add a boost to natural beeswax candles and the clear (amber) Honey M&P soap base, I'm confident, will be a serious seller for us when we roll it out this fall with our new B&B line I'm developing.

ETA;

I will add, however, that I was very sad to see Tennessee Candle go out of business. Their "Vanilla Bean Noel" was a much favored and useful FO to me even though I'm not personally a big vanilla fan.

I started making my own drop dead "Oatmeal Milk & Honey" with it as the main ingredient. It's a rich and strong French-type vanilla that's B&B safe, "sticks" nicely and didn't discolor in my goat's milk and oatmeal M&P soap bases. I'll have to stop selling it in candles and melts and just hold it as a soap only fragrance. I only have about a pound and half of it left. My quest for more or a good replacement begins. Does it ever get easy?

JMO/HTH

Dave @ Charlotte Hall Country Candles

Thank you all for your advice! I am very new to this and am sort of trying things as I go. I checked out naturesgardencandles.com and their fragrance selection looks awesome and is so affordable too!

I'm glad you found the link to be of value to you in your search.

I've been a chandler for a lot of years, but it really wasn't until about 2005 when I found my first candle board that I really began getting a quality education.

The very best learning experience, however, was by finding and using this board at the end of last year. Don't overlook the archived information found here. Most of your questions can be answered by searching for them there. I think it's the most efficient way to learn. You'll also pick up much "collateral" information.

You're right on about the fragrances at NG. The prices and selection are good. Although, for many of us we cannot commit to buying fragrances from a single supplier, NG rates high on the most used source for FO. What I really like about their site is the very detailed information they provide on their products. Knowing the technical data on fragrance oils wasn't too much of a concern for me as a chandler-owner crafter, but since venturing into the world of B&B recently it has become extremely important. I wish all suppliers gave similar data and open feedback on the items they offer.

Don't overlook Peak! When you support them you also support this board. Their fragrances are really top shelf, too. I've used many of their fragrances for years.

JMO/HTH

DAVE

I agree with Steve. EOs are not made for candles and don't perform well in them. On top of that you are very limited scent wise. FOs are made for candles and perform well plus you have a wealth of scents to choose from.

What carrier oil is in your EO? The only carrier oils I know of are used to cut EO/FO and typically not for use in candle applications. Also, some can clog the wick.

Candy (and Steve) took the words right out my fingers!

ETA; You might find this worthwhile;

http://www.naturesgardencandles.com/candlemaking-soap-supplies/item/00eo/-Essential-Oils-Class.html

HTH

Dave @ Charlotte Hall Country Candles

LOL Dave. It does look like 'greek' if you are unfamiliar with some of the terms. Superfat simply put means decreasing your lye or 'discounting' lye. The higher the superfat the less oil is saponified so you end up with a milder soap with a bit of extra conditioning. There is more to it but hopefully you get the picture.

Babassu Oil and Palm Kernal Oils (PKO) are hard/solid fats very similar to Coconut Oil (CO) in that they produce lots of lather and help harden soap among other things. But in general you want a lathery soap so you use one or more in your recipe. CO is by far the most popular and cheapest as mentioned above.

Yep! I wasn't fibbing when I told a gal buddy soaper recently that she need not worry that I would ever become a competitor for her CP soap business. I knew the "skinny" on coconut oil and soap, the rest was simply gibberish that just gave me a headache.

This old chandler-only geezer would like to know; Is this thread in English or some foreign language or secret code?

Hmmm. that is definitely food for thought. thanks for that..

I think Shannon is absolutely correct. She knows this business.

We have a very regular customer base in our shop. They are loyal, but they are frugal (cheap), too. They never forget a sale and always expect to pay that price whenever they buy. I always loved seeing new faces (tourists). If some regulars were in the shop at the time, I let them sell our products. They always want some payoff, though. Grrrrrrr!

I have a difficult time sometimes with my wife, but I think I have pretty much even convinced her that we want to emphasize high quality rather than low price.

We do too.

That's just because you're more talented (and patient) than me! (lol) . . . but TRUE!

Gosh Dave, those numbers are like mine. I don't like to carry items with high volume very low margin any more. They take too much space and time relative to the profit potential.

I am slowly learning to let go of things that do not bring joy to make. Votives were highest on the list. I do not regret discontinuing them for one second. It gave me back time and space for much more fun and profitable items.

If I had even a smidge of your talent, my "most precious resource" would be spent creating more of your great B&B products and your award winning crafted candle projects.

I actually didn't mind making the first 10,000 or so votives, but I would rather eat dirt than routinely stock them now. Every now and then I find that I manage to work-up the energy to make a batch or two. I think the worst part is cleaning the dang molds. The scars on my fingers testify to that.

The strange thing is . . . I actually enjoy burning them more than most other candles.

:undecided

Dave

If they "perform" as good as they look, you're going to be very successful. GREAT job!

Dave

Russ;

I think it depends on your market venue and what you consider is the most effective way to use your most valuable resource . . . Time.

Unless I sell them for a buck apiece they just sit on the shelf. When I lower the price from $2 to $1 (BOGO) they have good movement.

That's just my experience.

They also are my least favorite chandlering project.

You do remember me telling you that I've grown to hate candle making, too, don't you? (lol)

Good luck whatever you decide.

Dave

I use a couple of different methods. I burn my candle an hour per inch of diameter of the jar. Then continue a similar burn on a different day, usually the next day. I continue each burn until I burn the candle to its end point or bottom of the jar when the wick system extinguishes the candle. I log each burn until I have my total burn hours.

I also test burn and log the way I typically burn candle. This gives the candle burn a variance of the burn times as sometimes its one hour, sometimes its 2, 3, 4 hours or even longer. Again I log the burn times burning until I reach the end of the candle and get a total number of burn hours.

I also do power burn tests and log the total burn hours.

Testing different and varying burn methods gives me a burn range for the candle more accurate I find than simply calculating the amount of wax and average hourly burn consumption. I found the actual burn time was always dead on while the calculations were always off. HTMS

Russ;

As usual, Candy, IMO is correct.

Dave

You have a very nice wife, Dave!

Last night my DW, Betty, and I were watching a movie in which Michael Caine's character referred to a life well spent and accomplished.

I mentioned to my partner of 40 years that I had done some pretty great things in my life, too.

She was quick to ask me to name one.

I was even quicker to report that; "I married you, didn't I ???"

She fell silent, but the look on her face required no additional comment.

She just called a few minutes ago from her job to tell me that she loved me!

No lies! All true!

Dave

Welcome, Glenn!

Nice to see another "dude" on this board . . . as long as you don't "flirt" with what my DW refers to as my "candle making girlfriends". (lol)

Just kidding, of course! "Flirt" as much as you can get away with!

Dave @ Charlotte Hall Country Candles

Thank you for posting the source for "Barnwood".

I certainly do agree that not FO's are created equal and will not work in all types and blends of wax, but I've been making container candles with IGI-4630A for years and I will report that I always cure them for at least a week before putting them out for sale. I'm convinced it does make a difference.

Since 4630 already has Vybar in it's composition; I do not add any additional. Vybar will allow the wax to absorb more FO, but it will also reduce the strength of the throw if overused. 4630 can hold up to 10% FO as is. That should give you a pretty good throw if the FO is of good strength,well "designed" and properly cured.

You might also try addimg your FO at a lower temperature (150F-160F). I've been doing this recently with good results. I'm planning on trying to take it down to 140F in some up-coming testing. I find that I'm not losing the more volatile keynotes when adding FO at the lower temperatures. This concept is a little controversial at this time, but I'm strongly leaning towards the lower temperature and a bit less stirring of the wax, during the process.

JMO/HTH

Dave @ Charlotte Hall Country Candles

I'm sure that many members know of the "Fragrance Finder" website, but I'm also pretty confident that many members are not aware of it.

I've seen a number of posts that request information that can be readily found on this very useful and user-friendly site.

Although the feature is far from being a complete listing of all of the suppliers and fragrances available to us, it is still worth adding this link to your "Favorites" feature on your menu bar if it's not already there.

http://www.fragranceoilfinder.com/catalog/index.php

HTH

Happy fragrancing!

Dave @ Charlotte Hall Country Candles

Would you mind telling us the supplier you bought the "Barnwood" FO from?

TIA

Weeping is when you use too much FO and it starts leaching out of the wax and the wax could feel wet to the touch, or forms droplets on the surface of the wax. Using 3 oz./lb of any FO is a total waste of money. The most I ever use in any of my candles is 1 oz/lb and in tarts I sometimes use 1.25 oz/lb.

Ditto

Dave @ Charlotte Hall Country Candles

You can get a free one with a $75 purchase from CW right now. It's a special offer.

I have about 20 of them from CW and a half dozen of the 2 pounders (I bought them from Peak). I use them all of the time. I guess I'm stuck in the past.

I'm picking up another one at CW when I check-out my cart which is already loaded.

June 7th, 2013. Just received my 3rd letter from Paul A Hanson in Willmar MN. First 2 were in 2011! Still doing the same thing!

Sounds to me that unless he scams the local Duncan Donut shop he's going to continue to get away with his "venture". I wonder how many free items and cash refunds this bottom dweller has netted over the years?

Dear Inez;

Hello from America.

Normally I wouldn't reply to a post like this one, because there really isn't anyway to provide a simple and definative answer to the question you ask.

You write English very well. Better than many of us on the board, actually. I wish I could write or speak German, it's my family's native homeland. Both of my parents' grandparents imigrated from Germany in the late 19th century. I grew up listening to German, but never learned it. I wish I had. I did aquire the taste for the cuisine, however! (lol) Man, do I love sausages !!!!

To answer your question, I my first admit a little about myself.

I have a batchelors degree in business management and a master's degree in marketing. Both of those "honors" will get me a decent cup of coffee as long as I have about $3.00 in my pocket, though.

I've been told, however, that I could sell snowballs in a blizzard. My dad taught me the trade. Some of my first recollections in life were with him on selling sprees in a number of venues. It's simply in my blood now. Dad could and did sell anything and everything that was not illeagal or offensive.

From what I've read, you seem to lack the confidence in your own products, even though you KNOW they are good quality. Until you overcome this propensity for being "humble" about your products you may have to simply settle on modest sales or find someone who is more gregarious to assist you with "facing the crowd". Not everyone is a "natural born salesperson". There's no shame at all in it. It is a skill that can be learned, though.

I would like to offer the suggestion that you get aquainted with the Candlewic Company and subscribe to their free internet newsletter, "The Enlightener". They very often have some very good advice on how to best market your candles, soaps and related craft products.

The owner of the company, Bill Binder, writes under the pen name of "Chandler". He is a second generation candle maker with a lot of experience. I hope he doesn't mind me mentioning that he, too, is of German ancestry. He's also a very nice guy!

There are numerous books that you can buy that detail how to learn selling skills and there is a wealth of free information on the internet, but a good place to start the journey would be here, by reviewing the archives, or by looking at some of the supplier sites that offer selling advice including Candlewic's "Enlightener".

I've attached a link to the Candlewic site which will allow you to read and subscribe (free) to their newsletter and to search their archived material.

I realize I'm not offerring much, but I hope this helps some.

Good luck!

http://www.candlewic.com/default.asp

David @ Charlotte Hall Country Candles