Old Crab

Has anyone mixed 4794 with 4630 or with 4627 for containers?

I've been playing with my sisters combo (see previous post) and its nice but I think the 4794 would have a better throw than 4786.

Check with your accountant.

Depending on where you live, each state may be different, there are certain "codes" for your business.

These codes can affect your taxes, grant $$, insurance premiums, zoning codes, etc.

Sounds to me like she used the right wick because you don't want the melt pool to touch the glass sidewall until the 3rd three-hour burn session.

She used the same blend that Cajun Candle Supply recommends and uses in their own candles: "We use a special blend of two waxes to make our highly regarded container candles. We use 60% of our “IGI-4786 container wax ” and 40% of our "IGI-4633 one pour wax” to make a blended wax that offers a wonderful melt pool and exquisite scent throw." http://www.cajuncandles.com/container-candle-making-guide.html

I looked at their site again today, I forgot all about them doing this.

One thing I did notice is that with the jars my sister did, I have let them burn for 4 hours not the normal 3 - after the initial first 3 hour burn. I did this only because they burned well but did not touch the glass yet. Had 1/8" to go.

They are 2.75". When I burn mine for 4 hours, the straight 4627 wax, I end up with a bunch of soot.

With hers - none!

She did tell me today that she also added something else to the blend, so I'm a bit curious.

I also noticed that the one with 4627 seems to achieve mp faster than the one with 4630.

Also, the 4630 seems to be a darker / richer color - she swears same amount of liquid dye - same color.

Maybe I'll play with these blends this weekend and see what I can come up with. :rolleyes2:rolleyes2

Hello

A few months back I gave some wax 4627, 4630, & 4786 to my sister to "play" with.

I gave her a few examples of how to use the wax and told her to have fun.

The other day she gave me two jelly jars to test burn for her.

She told me the one is a blend of 4627 & 4786 while the other is 4630 & 4786.

Truly I'm a little bit intrigued, the wax is not rock hard but not soft/gooey.

They both throw well, but I think they need to be wicked up a touch.

The reason i think this is that at 3 hours burn it has barely touched the glass sidewall. She used cd-8 wicks, which I use for just plain 4627 in that jar.

I would not have thought of mixing these waxes, has anyone done this and with success?

She used a 60/40 blend with the 4786 being the 60, and 1oz FO per pound.

I want to thank everyone for giving me some good information.

I am out of town for awhile with limited Internet, so I apologize for the delay on the TY.

I can't wait to get back into the shop to try some things.

I've never worked with soy but have you considered getting a cookie / pie cooling rack?

Put your jars on it, pour and cover with a cardboard box.

The rack will help with the bottom cooling and the box will help bleed off heat at a more consistent rate - plus help with any possible drafts.

Thank you for the replies.

I have been combing through the forum pretty hard on this and notice that Topofmurrayhill was a specialist on this subject. Though it appears he has been silent or off busy doing something.

I've decided not to do mottled containers since most people buy them for hot throw and work on pillars.

Anyway I have noticed that a lot of people are using varying amounts of stearic in their formula.

I will need to test as to how much, but... Which stearic?

I notice that there is a triple press palm stearic and a regular animal (?) byproduct.

I am assuming the triple press since it is newer.

I have also read that 1274, 1343, & other waxes are not always reliable for mottling.

Would it be possible to use any straight wax (which one lol) and add the stearic & mineral oil. I am thinking of IGI 1260 which I use for Hurricanes, but is the MP too high at 160?

What is a good MP for a pillar to help prevent bulge, slumping, etc?

What else would be recommended to be added to the formula?

I'm going to go more for looks, burn capability, with a "light scent" max 3% load.

TIA

Does anyone what fragrance oil smells like the Thymes Eucalyptus scent.

Thanks

Vickie

Hello

Not sure what Thymes Eucalyptus is like but Wellington Fragrance has a good Eucalyptus scent.

I've learned that when I buy FO from them to buy the premium grade, it does cost a bit more but it really oes perform muh better.

The Manufacturers grade is a good blend as well, and definately better than some others "top shelf" brands.

Hello

Could you all recommend waxes that mottle for

Tarts / votives

Pillars

& containers

My wife saw them at a store the other day and really liked them.

I'm not too sure if I could "cheat" and get an additive that would mottle the igi 4786 & 4794 I use.

Thank you

Hello - and Happy New Year all.

I have been trying my best to wick a new jar (for me?).

It is the 4" x 4" apothecary.

Wax = igi 4627

1oz FO

Liquid dyes

I realize that I can not single wick the jar so I have been double wicking it.

So far I have tried

Cd 12

Cd 14

Cd 16

All the candles burn well at the beginning, and as long as I stop the burn at 4 hours very very minor soot. The candles will typically reach a decent and complete melt pool in around 2 hours.

The issue starts when the jar is around half full the wicks are barely a 1/4" tall and have small flames. After burning for 6 or even 8 hours the candle melt pool will not be near the glass - sometimes distant by 1/4" to 1/2".

The other jar I use is only 3 3/4 wide and I double wicked it with cd16 which I think are too big - same formula and never had this issue.

I think I should go up to a cd 18 but hard to believe two cd 18 are necessary.

I've tried using zinc, htp, and LX wicks but I and others have noticed the scent throw is stronger with the cd.

I would appreciate your thoughts.

Thank you.

Hello

Not sure which wick you are using but I have had great success in making pillars and jar candles using the RRD wicks.

Definitely need to "dip" the wick to put the flame out though or the wicks will become brittle and break very easily.

I have the larger round turkey fryer and there are some differences. First the one above uses less oil - 2 galons vice the 3-5 gallons that the round one will hold/melt. The round one has the drain facing forward ... and the heating element temperature guage also faces forward. With this one the element/guage faces forward but the drain is on a back corner. I got 1 used from a friend which prompted me to get 2 more. I don't see them on their site anymore as a new item.

Found this page with images of the round ones I have. Love them! Larger capacity than a presto and not as expensive as a specifically made water jacket 40# wax melter. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=masterbuilt+electric+turkey+fryers&id=4260E4D006794388ACEA2863C6C685454509AF88&FORM=IQFRBA

Judy

How well does it work vs the presto pot?

I'm wondering how long it takes to melt wax.

Hello all

I'm about to run out of my u.v. Additive.

I looked around at different suppliers and can't believe the differences in price at some places.

Is there truly a difference between them?

Is there a way to buy direct, etc?

If it helps I use it in my paraffin, haven't tried it in the palm yet.

Tia

Rancid smells like they are sour, fuel smell, not quite right, etc.

I do have some FO that are over 3 years old and over the past few days I have noticed that some "brands" are defiantly much better than others.

Having said that most of them, even the good brands, don't have a HT to save their life. I've had to replace some as I need.

I figure if I haven't poured it in 3 years, I don't really need them.

I've also learned to buy no bigger than 16oz at a time unless I use more than 3 bottles in 4 months.

Most that I haven't poured in the last 3 years are 5lb jugs that were great, just didn't sell.

Yes, the 2 piece lid that comes with the jar. I wonder if they really can reuse them for canning after they've been subjected to the heat of a flame? If they can, that's great! But, when I use the Red Permatex to attach the wick to the bottom, the wick tab can't be removed. If there's a way to remove that, please let me know somebody.

The red permeated is the high heat strength or something if I remember right.

Wow.

Why do you use that?

The wick stickums from BC are great, simpe, easy, and no mess.

Thanks for the help. I went ahead and poured quite a few of these jars yesterday.

I'll take a look again at the exact jar later.

Hello

I have a general store asking me to make them some candles to sell. They really like the 16oz smooth mason jar look, not my jelly jars.... So I have to make some of these and test, test, test.

I bought some of the Ball pint jars at Wally World to try before I buy the plain ones.

The mouth is the same size as the jar, so I am guessing wide mouth. They are 3" diameter.

I have a few wax choices to choose from.

4630 I like the ease of use but the hot throw is not as good as 4627

4627 great hot throw but a bit messy, not sure how well it will do in the summer though. The shop does not have AC.

4786 great wax, does require second pour though.

I'm leaning towards the 4786 because of the heat in the summer.

What I would like is a starting point with these waxes in this jar.

For wicks I have:

CD, HTP, LX, & Zinc.

Personally I'm not a big fan of the zinc but they do work and for some reason the LX works great for some jars, but the CD almost always give me a better hot throw.

I know it's only 3" but would I need to double wick this?

I'm going to pour a couple of jars in each wax to begin with.

TIA

Woot!

Online Labels

OL5030

3.375"x2.3125

Thank you for giving the number

I hate searching for things like that and worrying about getting the correct size and all.

Bummer... I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction.

Wow!

I wish I knew this... Now I need to go back and retest them.

I liked how they burned, no smoke, etc. but it always seemed like they weren't up to the job.

Hello

I am looking for 6 x 9 molds without wick holes.

I would really like to find seamless, but I think I am dreaming on that.

I'm just tired of plugging the wick holes and then rechecking before each pour.

TIA

Wellington Fragrance

Cajun Candles

Candles and Supplies - I know some aren't thrilled with them but I have had good luck with some of their scents.

I personally think you can do better than C&S. The scents you are looking at are not complex. I have always found C&S oils to be diluted and weak. Sorry.

Do you know of a better:

Vanilla Bean - better than plain vanilla

Cinnamon Stix - not just cinnamon or red hot

I would like to try others but I hate wasting money and these two are in my top 5

I found my label for the Drakkar.

Drakkar Noirtm - Type

A version of Drakkar Noirtm, a trademark of Guy Laroche

The tm after Noir is small case and at the top, can't do that on the board with what I am using.

As long as you give proper credit, etc you should have no problems.

As my lawyer told me, look around you and you will see someone using someone's trademark.

As long as proper credit is given and you are not claiming it as yours you are fine.

Sadly, it does take up a bunch of space on an otherwise "clean looking" label.