kcollins78 Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 I have some jars that are 2.5 inches diameter at the bottom and 3 inches at the top (also 3 inches high) - how would you wick these, and for how long at a time (2.5 hours or 3?) would you test burn them? I'm using 415 and tried a CD-10 wick but haven't test burned it yet because it's curing. Have had some success using CD-12 wicks in 3 inch diameter status jars but am still experimenting with those as well.Another question: how far do you fill the jars - up to 1/2 inch from the top? Is there a standard answer to this (can't seem to find one...) or a formula to determine this?Also, has anybody tried blending 135 and 415 to make a prettier candle? The first candles I made were with 135 - they were lovely and creamy, had perfectly smooth tops, no wet spots and minimal frosting, but had no throw. I've made a few now with 415 and it's so ugly (rough tops were helped a little with the addition of USA but I have more work to figure that problem out) sink holes and and bad frosting but has amazing HT. Next time I'll try preheating the FO to see if that helps with the terrible frosting. I've searched these issues but couldn't find much. Any advice and tips would be much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 What's the name of the jar you're using? What temp do you pour the 415? & how do you cool them? warm jars? May as well list it all, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Because the jars taper at the bottom, I'd test with one size smaller than I would use for a 3" container. Whether you test for 2.5 hours or 3 doesn't matter that much - just do it for the same amount of time each session and you'll be just fine.Fill lines are subjective... I like for the trimmed wick not to be so close to the top as to be bent over when the lid is put one; other than that, it's really up to you. Status jars, for example, look best to me when filled just to the point where the lid fits into the container - not lower. I've seen other, more sophisticated containers that I thought looked really cool filled about 3/4 full. It's really up to you. If you ar using a container with a shoulder, like a hex jar or apothecary, beware of filling all the way into the neck - this can create some burn problems at first. Up to the neck but not into...415 is more prone to frosting than other soy waxes because it contains no additives. It also has the best HT of all the soy waxes I've tried. It's ugly as a homemade mud fence when it burns, but dang it does smell good! Tempering will help but 415 is a wax that is usually poured very cool. You may have more success searching for EZ Soy - same thing. I don't think blending 135 would make a significant difference. If you are going to blend, you may want to just use one of the soy waxes which contain additives, such as NatureWax C3 or EcoSoya Excel. If you still want to work with 415 and use additives, you already have USA - you could use up to 2 Tbsp. PP. I use 1 Tbsp PP in C3 but it already has USA in it... You could also try using some soy lecithin. Other veggie oils can help - palm, cottonseed, etc. Understand that the more additives you use, at some point will impact the HT, so be ready to make a bargain with the devil about this.Sinkholes are an issue of uneven cooling. Cool on a rack away from drafts. Cover the candles lightly if your indoor temps are pretty cool or drafts cannot be helped. It never hurts to turn on the oven to about 125°F, heat up, then turn off. Put the candles in the oven in a secure baking pan and close the door and check them in a few hours.Good luck and post some pics when you can. We always love to see photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 I am battling this ugly beast myself right now- I use 464 mainly but love the HT of 415 much more. I think the CD 10 is a good starting point with your jar- and as Stella said 2.5 to 3 hours is not going to make much of a difference and fill lines are up to you- I use the 8 ounce square mason but find that if I fill to much where it tapers in my wicks drown out due to the soy burning down faster that out so I fill just up to where it starts to taper.135 is a good wax- I am surprised you didnt get any throw, it is not as strong throwing as 464 or 415 but it does throw and I never got frost or wet spots with this either- I still use it with PB for melts because it frosts less than 464 and I get strong melts out of it.If your wanting to mix the 415 with something for better tops I have had some luck with beeswax- I have not tested the throw yet vs. 415 straight to see if it hinders it any but it did help "some" with the tops but NOT with the wet spots! (and by some I mean it didnt look like the "swamp thing" but still needed a zap with the heat gun) This wax is a BEAR to make look good, I am going to try the tempering myself next time I pour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcollins78 Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 What's the name of the jar you're using? What temp do you pour the 415? & how do you cool them? warm jars? May as well list it all, lol.Forgot to mention those It's a Weck 1/5 liter jar. I poured at 97*, cooled them on a rack on the counter (thermostat on 70* but the kitchen tends to be a bit warmer I think), did not preheat the jars but did wash and dry them.Thanks much for your reply, Stella, I'll try using a little more USA next time and let them cool in the oven as well and see if that helps. Moonshine, I did have a little throw with the 135 but not much. Do you use beeswax and USA together with them?This week I'll try several of these ideas and will try to post some pictures. I don't get much time but every once in a while both babies take naps at the same time and I get a heavenly hour to whip up more candles Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 didnt look like the "swamp thing"Oh MAN - I wish I'd have thought of this for Halloween candles... Scented BRAINS!! Yay!! What's not to like there? Ah well... would probably be my luck to be unable to come up with the right touch to produce the brain look... :undecided:laugh2:Maybe that's the ANSWER to learning how to reduce polymorphism issues - learn how to make the most frosted, lumpy, cellulite-ridden, brainy looking candles in the universe, then don't do dat. :laugh2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 kcollins- I do not use USA- I wanted to NOT add anything to the 415 but I just couldnt take the tops of this wax so I added beeswax only- the 464 is a wonderful wax and already has the additives in it to make it pretty and not frost as much. So I would rather continue with this wax before messing with adding to much to the 415- I was looking to try and keep it as pure as possible for a 100% soy candleStella- I apparently DO have the touch - my 415 skills are horrific at best...so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Stella- I apparently DO have the touch - my 415 skills are horrific at best...so far It's not too early to begin planning for Halloween 2012!I wanted to NOT add anything to the 415I don't know your reason, but I hope you know that USA is veggie derived... Beeswax didn't work well for me in C3 because it made it too prone to cracking, 415 is much softer than C3 to begin with, so I think it's a reasonable choice. You could also try (not necessarily in addition to beeswax...) other veggie oils which behave slightly better than soy. I think you'll get it down just in time to spoil your Halloween brain candles next year. LOLOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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