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The attached photo is of one of my dual scent candles, cedar is the top tan layer and pine is the lower, green layer. The wax is CB Advanced and the wick is a HTP 104. Fragrance was added at 0.6% but I think I will try 0.8% or 1% next time. Container is roughly 2" diameter.

post-13162-139458478736_thumb.jpg

Edited by rjdaines
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Looking good.. I am assuming you mean 6% rather than .6%.. How is the hot throw for you on the Advanced and how long did you cure them to get a good hot throw.. I just poured one with Advanced.. Looks great and has great cold throw but no hot throw as of 5 days of cure.. Using an LX 22 wick in a 3" diameter jar.. Thanks

Edited by njcandle
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Yes, not sure where those decimal points came from. The candle is 4 days old, the HT is not as good as i would like it, maybe it's the cedar but we'll see what happens when it hits the pine layer. I still still up the fragrance % the next time I make one. I have a second that will cure longer. Let me know how that LX22 wick does for you, I was not pleased with the melt pool and the mushrooming, maybe you'll have better luck.

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Very pretty candle. :)

Just understand that, despite its beauty, CBA has long-standing issues with hot throw. Only certain fragrances work with it reliably. You can try all the wicks in the world (even my beloved CDNs), but the bottom line is the wax has inherent hot throw issues. The list of fragrances with which it works well seems to be a lot shorter than the list of ones that it doesn't. Some folks do not mind and search out the FOs that work with it and are happy with its performance. But many, many others never seem to find the right combination that works satisfactorily.

NGI has a "fragrance program" that may be of help in choosing which manufacturers & suppliers carry fragrances that work with their waxes.

http://www.ngiwax.com/resources/fragranceprogram.html

Edited by Stella1952
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Thanks Stella, that is a very interesting chart, am I guessing right that PB stands for their pillar blend? Their CB 135 also seems to be a good performer, I have some PB in my inventory and may make a container with it and compare HT. I also may get some CB 135 and try that as well.

I made the mistake of posting that candle picture on my Facebook page and now several of my friends want candles. That was not my intent as I am still a newbie to this. While making and giving the candles "as is" I wish I had a better handle on the HT issue. Pretty is nice but fragrance is better. I'll search the forum but are there one or two soy waxes that stand out in your mind as to good HT performers?

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I have some PB in my inventory and may make a container with it

Why would you use PB (pillar blend) for a container? It's formulated for votives and pillars.

CB 135, CBA and Excel are NGI's container blends.

are there one or two soy waxes that stand out in your mind as to good HT performers?

Sure. I use NatureWax C3 but it's not easy to find these days. No soy wax is trouble-free. My suggestion is for you to read through older posts from people who use CBA and like it. They have learned how to make it work. Curing is very important in soy candles. I don't even consider burning a new soy candle to test until it has cured for at least 48 hours. I have learned to wait an entire week. A few FOs I love take even longer to develop to their fullest potential.

My very best suggestion is to make friends with the Google site search tool and read about what wicks work best for others who use CBA and what specific FOs CBA users report working well for them in it. ;)

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Well what do you know.. Most of these frangrance spots are in NJ.. Looks like I will be doing some more research and reaching out to these people.. Thanks so much for that information.. I actually did a GB 464 mix with the Advanced last night.. No frosting, great cold throw, and decent to nice smoth tops.. I will update on whether or not it has any hot throw after some time of cure

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I actually did a GB 464 mix with the Advanced last night.. No frosting, great cold throw, and decent to nice smoth tops..
Since you are new to candlemaking, I suggest you pick a wax and stick with it. If you do not know the properties of the waxes you are using, mixing them will do you little good. Frosting, BTW, often does not show within the first 24 hours after a candle is poured. It frequently takes a several days to a month for it to rear its ugly head.
I will update on whether or not it has any hot throw after some time of cure

Good idea. My recommendation is at least 48 hours, preferably a week.

Edited by Stella1952
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The whole experiment of mixing them was to see if I could get the positive properties of hot throw from the GB 464 and the positive properties of appearance with the CB Advanced somewhat combined to make a fairly decent candle.. I do agree with you though and I will stick to one combination/type of wax from now on

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