Slightly sticky cream

[caryfh]

I was testing out a face cream recipe, trying to get the consistency I like prior to modifying the recipe to include all the nice extras I wanted. I love the consistency (nice and thick) but when I first rub it on, it seems to feel slightly tacky/sticky, but then still absorbs nicely and feels great afterwards. Just wondering what I might change to help with this.

Recipe includes

63% Water

4% Humectant (I used sodium lactate)

0.5% xanthan gum (I might have used 1% by accident?)

7% FCO

7% Sesame Oil

6% LotionPro 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate Emulsifier)

1.5% Vitamin E

1.5% cetyl alcohol

Yes, I recognize that this doesn't add up to 100%, it's just the first 2 phases, but didn't feel the need to add in the last round (including preservative) if I don't love the way these act together. Is it perhaps too much xanthan gum? would adding dimethicone help?

[Abbiepql]

I am not familar with Lotionpro 165, but as an emulsifier, that rate looks a bit high to me as does the sodium lactate which I have always learned to keep under 2%. I think the emulsifier is what is giving you the tackiness, especially coupled with the oils you chose for this recipe. I use cones in all my lotions and creams due to the nice slip factor. I would fix the recipe first then add the cones taking from your oil pecentage I do 2%. Also as for the thickener, don't use them with cetyl alchol which will thicken, and for a cream I would be using less water to keep it stiffer? Hope that makes sense.

[caryfh]

Sorry, what are cones? I was thinking I may play with different emulsifiers and perhaps drop the xanthan gum altogether.

I am not familar with Lotionpro 165, but as an emulsifier, that rate looks a bit high to me as does the sodium lactate which I have always learned to keep under 2%. I think the emulsifier is what is giving you the tackiness, especially coupled with the oils you chose for this recipe. I use cones in all my lotions and creams due to the nice slip factor. I would fix the recipe first then add the cones taking from your oil pecentage I do 2%. Also as for the thickener, don't use them with cetyl alchol which will thicken, and for a cream I would be using less water to keep it stiffer? Hope that makes sense.

[CareBear]

silicones

[caryfh]

oh, duh. Thanks. Brain not fully functioning today.

[mychellec]

I agree that your emulsifier may be the culprit, though I haven't played with Lotionpro either. You might try BTMS for your emulsifier. It has a nice, almost powdery feel in lotions and creams and it adsorbs to and conditions skin. I agree that you want to keep the sodium lactate at 2% as it is photo-sensitizing, and your Vitamin E should be at 1% or less. I love the feel of cylcomethicone in my lotions as well. FCO is a nice light oil, so that will not add tackiness to your formula; sesame is a bit more occlusive but still should not be sticky. I do love the glide cetyl contributes to a formula, and have never found it to be sticky, but play with it and see. HTH!