jen08 Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 I tried doing a search and didn't find anyone with this problem. I'm not sure what would cause this. I'm using oils that I know are good quality, and in my notes for the same candle I made prior as "awesome." ...this one is barely noticeable in one room. It is a 3 inch container. I appreciate any possible ideas. Let me know if more details in my procedure would help. TIA!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Nope. The cold throw from palm wax diminishes as the wax hardens (it's like it gets "sealed" in there), but when warmed, rubbed or burned, the hot throw is the same as ever. If you have made this same candle before - same FO (from the same supplier & batch), same container, same wick & wick size, same wax - and it is not scenting the same in the same room where you tested it previously, I have to think either your nose isn't working well (candle nose, cold, etc.) or the temperature/humidity of the room is different from when you first tested it. Hot throw isn't as strong in cold dry air as it is in warmer more humid air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted February 5, 2010 Author Share Posted February 5, 2010 Hi!! Thank you for relying so quickly!! Yes, everything was identical, including the temperature...maybe a slight difference in humidity? But anyway, I also gave one to my sister to test...her results were the same... it crushed me! I thought I had finally gotten the hang of this... But you gave me an idea... you said that the scent gets sealed in as it cools...when I wreck the tops, first I wait until there is about 1/8 "crust" on the top, then take a knife, cut around the inside, and push the top down. I do that every few minutes as the candle cools. Eventually I'm cutting the little bit that's left and pushing the teeny top into slushiness. Does this make any sense? Is it possible that a lot of the scent is escaping as I continue to reopen the tops as it cools? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 you said that the scent gets sealed in as it cools...No. Perhaps I was not clear - I said the scent gets sealed inside the candle as it HARDENS. When burned, the hot throw is the same. Only the cold throw is diminished slightly. This takes place over a period of many days/weeks as the wax crystals and the surface cure and harden. It isn't something you would notice within the first week...Is it possible that a lot of the scent is escaping as I continue to reopen the tops as it cools? No. The FO is mixed in the candle wax and does not evaporate to atmosphere in any significant amount any more than it would if you stirred the wax. Yes, everything was identicalWell, all I can think of is that something isn't identical... or your previous rating was not accurate...I'm using oils that I know are good qualityGo back over your notes from both pours. Same exact oil from the same exact supplier & batch? Did you melt the wax to the same exact temperature? Was the FO at the same temperature? Did you add it to the wax at the same temperature? Did you pour at the same temperature? Was the container at the same temperature when poured? Did you pour in the same container? Was the wick & size the same? Are you testing in the same room? If you compare all the data from the previous candle and compare it directly to the one you just poured, SOMETHING is different... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 No. Perhaps I was not clear - I said the scent gets sealed inside the candle as it HARDENS. When burned, the hot throw is the same. Only the cold throw is diminished slightly. This takes place over a period of many days/weeks as the wax crystals and the surface cure and harden. It isn't something you would notice within the first week...Oh. Ya, I did misunderstand. Thanks for re-explaining. Well, all I can think of is that something isn't identical... or your previous rating was not accurate...Go back over your notes from both pours. Same exact oil from the same exact supplier & batch? Did you melt the wax to the same exact temperature? Was the FO at the same temperature? Did you add it to the wax at the same temperature? Did you pour at the same temperature? Was the container at the same temperature when poured? Did you pour in the same container? Was the wick & size the same? Are you testing in the same room? If you compare all the data from the previous candle and compare it directly to the one you just poured, SOMETHING is different...Well, you were right...I found 2 things...1: When I prewarmed the container on the first candle, I did it in the toaster oven, and I left it in too long. I think I may have melted the coating off the CDN wick. In my first candle test, I have noted that the container never got very hot. Well, testing this new one last night...it got really hot in one area of the container. When I warmed this tester, I used a heat gun, not melting the wick, so possibly this would be the result of the true CDN wick......much warmer? I may try wicking down with the CDN (right now it's a 16 in a 3 inch container). Oh and 2: Uh, I'm very emabarrassed to admit...during the 1st candle test I was actually testing 2 candles in one room...hence the awesome scent throw. Uhhh..oops...:tiptoe: But all embarrassment aside, shouldn't a 3 inch 8oz Madison conainer scent a decent sized area? (our entire house is only about 1000 sq ft). I've also read that a lot of people double wick this size...and I'm only single wicking...would the reason behind double wicking just be to minimize conainer heat while melting wax down the sides? I really do appreciate all your help and bearing with me...:smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soy327 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 How is the cdn 16 burning? Have you burned it all the way down yet?Linda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 Well, the candle I made prior to this one with the CDN 16 has been burned all the way down and left a tiny bit of wax on the sides, and never got hot to the touch, so I thought it was pretty good. This candle is only burned 1/2 down and one side has already caught up, and it was very hot to the touch. The flame is larger than I get with soy candles, but doesn't seem different from the last flame I burned with Glass Glow. So the first test seemed okay, now I think the wick may be too large. The funny thing is that I am burning another scent that is wonderful, but I'm sitting 5 ft away and there is absolutely no scent at all, so I KNOW I am doing something wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soy327 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Maybe wick down for that fragrance. I have never put GG in a 3" yet but want to just didn't know if I should double wick or not.I'm doing my 1st palm pillar waiting for the 1/4' on top to cure It's taking a long time.Keep us posted on your testing. What FO is this one? What was the last one?Linda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) I think I may have melted the coating off the CDN wick.That really shouldn't affect the burn that much.This candle is only burned 1/2 down and one side has already caught up, and it was very hot to the touch.CD & CDN wicks curl to one side - self-trimming stance. They are hotter on the side of the curl so you have to keep the heat from the flame centered in the candle to get an even burn.The flame is larger than I get with soy candles, but doesn't seem different from the last flame I burned with Glass Glow. So the first test seemed okay, now I think the wick may be too large.Are you writing down your observations or depending on your memory? It is important to record accurate notes for later comparisons. We recently discussed the flame height of Glass Glow in another thread... might wanna look for that and read up about it... The funny thing is that I am burning another scent that is wonderful, but I'm sitting 5 ft away and there is absolutely no scent at all, so I KNOW I am doing something wrong.DO NOT test more than one candle at a time and expect to know anything about the scent throw! If one is a little stronger than the other, it can make your nose "blind" to the lesser of the scents. You might wanna read this article (from the upper left side of the page) about evaluating scent throw and how it works with your nose...http://www.candletech.com/general-information/comparing-scent-throw/ I may try wicking down with the CDN (right now it's a 16 in a 3 inch container)Just because a 16 seemed to work in one scent does NOT mean it will be right for another. It sounds like a 14 would be more appropriate. It's entirely possible that you are burning off the FO. How is the cold throw?I find that palm wax takes less wick than does soy in general, so when I am testing, I start with one wick size down from where I would start if I were testing soy, if that helps.But all embarrassment aside, shouldn't a 3 inch 8oz Madison conainer scent a decent sized area? (our entire house is only about 1000 sq ft). One would think, but it's obvious that your candle is not wicked right for that scent. It would be helpful if we knew what scent from whom and how much you used in the candle...I'm doing my 1st palm pillar waiting for the 1/4' on top to cure It's taking a long time. I don't understand what you mean... Are you saying you are waiting for the top to cool? Or what?I have never put GG in a 3" yet but want to just didn't know if I should double wick or not.I've also read that a lot of people double wick this size...and I'm only single wicking...would the reason behind double wicking just be to minimize conainer heat while melting wax down the sides?Groan. When testing a new wax, it makes all kinds of sense not to choose containers which hover on the brink of being difficult to wick. From reading countless topics here, 3" seems to be the magic number where people start having trouble. It also makes sense to make smaller candles to learn the basic properties of the new wax because it doesn't take as long to burn them all the way to the end! Choose a simple, straight-sided container, preferably without shoulders. Something in the 5-8 oz. range is perfect. Don't start testing with something that may need to have a multiple wick - you are begging for frustration! Learn to walk before ya take off runnin'!!! Edited February 6, 2010 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soy327 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 I was saying that I was waiting for the top to get 1/4" skim/solidify to start wrecking wrecking my pillar.Linda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 AHA!! So you are IN PROGRESS!! Have fun!! I can't think of a better way to spend a Saturday afternoon!! :yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) CD & CDN wicks curl to one side - self-trimming stance. They are hotter on the side of the curl so you have to keep the heat from the flame centered in the candle to get an even burn.I always twist the wicks to try to achieve a more even burn.Are you writing down your observations or depending on your memory? It is important to record accurate notes for later comparisons. We recently discussed the flame height of Glass Glow in another thread... might wanna look for that and read up about it... I did a search on Glass Glow before I made my first tester. I reread them after I came up with this problem. I expected a larger flame from the Glass Glow. Out of my testers, I decided on the candle that had the smallest flame, the container didn't get too hot, and it melted most of the wax by the end. That's the one I recreated and am tested again now.DO NOT test more than one candle at a time and expect to know anything about the scent throw! If one is a little stronger than the other, it can make your nose "blind" to the lesser of the scents. You might wanna read this article (from the upper left side of the page) about evaluating scent throw and how it works with your nose...http://www.candletech.com/general-information/comparing-scent-throw/No...I didn't have 2 different scents burning at the same time. I burned the one I originally posted about. Blew it out when it was time. Waited a few hours and lit another tester I had made to see if it was as bad as the first candle. That's the one I was refering to when I said I was sitting 5 ft away and didn't smell anything. Since I thought I had I had correctly wicked the first fragrance, I made testers with other fragrances (starting with 2 different wick sizes for each fragrance).Just because a 16 seemed to work in one scent does NOT mean it will be right for another. It sounds like a 14 would be more appropriate. It's entirely possible that you are burning off the FO. How is the cold throw?The cold throw is awesome.I find that palm wax takes less wick than does soy in general, so when I am testing, I start with one wick size down from where I would start if I were testing soy, if that helps.That is VERY helpful...thank you..One would think, but it's obvious that your candle is not wicked right for that scent. It would be helpful if we knew what scent from whom and how much you used in the candle...The original test is cranberry marmelade from CS and the other is Strawberry Rhubarb from CC. Both are super yummy!!Groan. When testing a new wax, it makes all kinds of sense not to choose containers which hover on the brink of being difficult to wick. From reading countless topics here, 3" seems to be the magic number where people start having trouble. It also makes sense to make smaller candles to learn the basic properties of the new wax because it doesn't take as long to burn them all the way to the end! Choose a simple, straight-sided container, preferably without shoulders. Something in the 5-8 oz. range is perfect. Don't start testing with something that may need to have a multiple wick - you are begging for frustration! Learn to walk before ya take off runnin'!!! Very good point.....Linda....I will make more testers and share what I find out...:smiley2: By the way...your pillars look GREAT!!!!! How exciting!!! Edited February 7, 2010 by jen08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 Sorry, Stella, I hope you can make sense of the previous post...I really messed up the "quote" tool... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soy327 Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 that's funny I don't even understand the quote too:laugh2::laugh2:Thanks for the compliment on the pillar I think I will be making alot of them in the future and it won't be as scary as that one was.:yay:Oh and please let me know how the wicking goes in those 3" jars I have a bunch of those for later on when I know more about wicking them. Right now I'm making the quilted 8oz JJ and it's going great.Linda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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