Stella I'm gonna try a pillar

[soy327]

With the Holidays gone and I've made my Valentines candles, I'm ready to play. I have been wanting to try my hand at making a feather or starburst palm pillar. I ordered the concave 3" by 4.5" seamless round aluminum mold (start small) small wick screws and mold sealer.

I have been taking notes on from the board and wrote down a cd12 wick and have looked and relooked at your wrecking job. Sooo you cut the bottom pour side with a knife all the way around when it forms a skin about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep and carefully push the wax down inside the pillar, to get the air out. Am I right? You don't do a second pour?I can't wait to try this. Just want to get it right.

Thanks,

Linda

[Stella1952]

Yep, you've got the idea. You do this at intervals several times - as long as there's liquid wax in there. How many times depends upon how tall your pillar is. Be careful not to push too hard and spurt hot wax on your eyelashes like I did before Christmas 'cause I got in a rush and wasn't careful!! I wasn't hurt, but it sure scared the bejesus outta me!! I remember thinking, "Oh GREAT!! Burns on my cornea - JUST what I need!!!"

You can second pour, but I prefer to simply level the bottom. If you choose to second pour, remember to be real careful to pour only within the confines of the wax already there. If you just "fill 'er up," the wax will run down between the candle & the mold and make it hard to release and it WILL show.

Good luck & have fun!! You know we wanna see photos...

[Meridith]

We've poured our pillars before to where it went down the side of the candle. We've never had any problem unmolding any candle yet, but the wax that runs down will be a different texture and noticeably different like Stella said. DH does not like the look, but I kind of thought it created a really cool look and adds some visual texture to the candle.

I hope you enjoy this wax as much as we do. Its been fun pouring and testing.

Edited February 5, 2010 by Meridith

[soy327]

I am shooting for Saturday, I will be careful not to glue my eyelids together LOL:laugh2::laugh2:Oh I have spray mold release, hope it comes outa the mold ok. I will take picks and post them. Anything else I haven't thought of I have 1 whole day. My husband is going to Peak tomorrow afternoon to pick up the order.

Wonder if they have the new Ecosya exel wax?

I also wanna try heating my FO with some powder dye in my toaster oven with the mold. Hey I have Nag Champa:yay:

Thanks for the advice,

Linda

[Stella1952]

I have spray mold release, hope it comes outa the mold ok

I don't use mold release. I add 1 Tablespoonful palm stearic acid per pound to aid with release. After using the mold, I heat it and wipe it out with a cloth or paper towel - I don't use soap or water on my aluminum molds.

DH does not like the look, but I kind of thought it created a really cool look and adds some visual texture to the candle

I don't like the look on one color candles, but then again, I don't really like one color candles that much - I like the crazy ones!!! I totally agree with you about the visual texture!! Here's a pic of a recent "tiltie" pillar & matching layered votives I made for a Valentine's Day gift set. - a heart candle goes with it, but I did a really sh*tty job on this batch of photos and have to reshoot them. Didn't get a single decent photo of the heart! :rolleyes2

[Meridith]

I don't use mold release. I add 1 Tablespoonful palm stearic acid per pound to aid with release. After using the mold, I heat it and wipe it out with a cloth or paper towel - I don't use soap or water on my aluminum molds.

I don't like the look on one color candles, but then again, I don't really like one color candles that much - I like the crazy ones!!! I totally agree with you about the visual texture!! Here's a pic of a recent "tiltie" pillar & matching layered votives I made for a Valentine's Day gift set. - a heart candle goes with it, but I did a really sh*tty job on this batch of photos and have to reshoot them. Didn't get a single decent photo of the heart! :rolleyes2

That pillar is just gorgeous!!!!! I like the votives too. Our votives have sucked big time (the look). The colors in your candles are wonderful too. It reminds me of the sea. I would buy those. Very nice. You do beautiful work that should make you proud.

We've never used any mold release or stearic acid and have not had one pillar stick. Not even when the mold has been new. I never wash ours either. I dread it if we ever get one stuck though.

I have to say it again. Gorgeous pillar!!

Edited February 5, 2010 by Meridith

[pcbrook]

I was thinking about making the jump into pillars soon also. What is the best and easiest way to level out the bottoms instead of doing a second pour?

I did a couple votives a few days ago and waiting for them to cure so I can test burn. That went pretty easy.

TIA

[Stella1952]

It reminds me of the sea.

Oh, GOOD! That's what I was shooting for! Thanks for your kind words! It's gonna be hard to sell this one - when I hold it by the wick and turn it slowly, it reminds me of sailing on a stormy day. Scent is bluestone (shoulda been stormwatch LOL).

Votives are tough because they are so little and lose heat so quickly. The best I've been able to do with them is layers because I don't have to go for the big crystals, but crazing and superficial cracking occurs which some folks think is defective when actually it isn't.

We stuck quite a few (because of mold vacuum complicated by the wax running between the pillar & the mold) until we learned a few things. We don't have those problems any more, but I do remember a few mold/candle fights punctuated with much profanity...

What is the best and easiest way to level out the bottoms instead of doing a second pour?

First, try to be NEAT when wrecking the bottom! The less hard, boogery wax mess you have to trim, the better. Ease the pillar out of the mold to the point where you want it to be leveled and score the candle all the way around with an awl or something sharp, following the edge of the mold as a guide. Because palm wax is so brittle*, I don't recommend trying to just cut through it because it crushes & fractures so easily. Then I take a long, thin bladed knife and pare away the excess. I make a recessed area in the bottom in which to set the wick. Then I hold the candle by the top of the wick and twirl it over a hot surface (frying pan, griddle, etc.). This has to be done quickly so as not to actually start melting the entire bottom - all you want is to melt the surface of the bottom, if that makes any sense. Better to quickly twirl 3 or 4 times, cooling for a few moments in between, than to leave the candle in contact with the griddle too long. I keep one area on a table leveled so I can set the pillar there and put a smaller level on top of it to check it. Remember that you have to check the leveling in several directions. Just 'cause it's level side-to-side doesn't mean it'll be level front to back. It takes a lot more time to type to describe how to level the pillar than it does to actually do it!!

* I recommend that palm wax pillars be placed in shallow bowls or in glass hurricanes (with sand in the bottom) to burn. I do NOT recommend they be placed on candle plates or pillar holders with spikes because the spike can easily fracture the pillar and most holders do not have the capacity to contain a "blow out" should that occur.

Edited February 5, 2010 by Stella1952

[pcbrook]

Thanks Stella for that explanation. I guess I should invest in a little level. Never thought of that. And probably an old griddle from the Goodwill.

When I wrecked the votives they easily smoothed out with the heat gun. I am having a little trouble smoothing out my containers with the heat gun so they look good. They always seem to have a ridge around the inside edge of the glass.

Thanks for your help. I really appreciate everyone here.

Palm wax is actually becoming my favorite. I ran out of soy and I am not planning on buying anymore. So far I have had good luck with the palm. Wicking even seems to be easier than soy. Or maybe I am just becoming so used to it, it doesn't even phase me anymore.

[Stella1952]

They always seem to have a ridge around the inside edge of the glass.

That's a characteristic of the way palm wax contracts and you're not gonna be able to change that. Sometimes, you can get lucky with a second pour and get the second pour to pool within the confines of the first pour, creating a meniscus around the edges (where it actually doesn't contact the glass). Too tedious for me!!

With containers, it helps to smooth the boogers first with a knife or something so that there isn't much work for the heat gun to do other than generally bring everything together.

I love palm wax, too! I'm not sure exactly why I keep pouring soy - guess I'm a glutton for punishment!

Edited February 5, 2010 by Stella1952

[pcbrook]

With containers, it helps to smooth the boogers first with a knife or something so that there isn't much work for the heat gun to do other than generally bring everything together.

Thanks for the tip! I have a few sitting there right now I will have to give that a try to see how it goes.

[Desertrose]

Stella, how do you get the tops of your votives...the edges of the tops, to be so neat and "rounded" looking?

I always find that as the wax sets in the mold there is a little lip created that kind of sucks up the edge of the mold leaving a rim that is very fine and sharp and prone to chipping.

In the past I've "carved" that fine sharp edge away with a knife (waaay too time consuming) and recently I've tried heat gunning them to make it melt so the edge is less fine.

Now we are shrink wrapping them so it's not as much of an issue, but it bugs me none the less.

[Stella1952]

It helps to fill the mold to the meniscus when pouring, very tough to maintain when wrecking! Timing is everything with those little buggers!

I finish votives in one of two ways:

1. Heat gun the top, then slide the votive out of the mold while still warm and run my thumb over any sharp edges to smooth down.

2. Leave the wick pin in place, but slide the candle out to where the wick pin is almost flush with the top, then run the top quickly over the warm electric frypan, and rub the warm edges down with my thumb. The ones in the photo look like I used the frypan technique.

Gotta keep in mind that palm wax is brittle, so you have to be careful to slightly warm it before working it, not use too much pressure because it crushes into powder, chips and splinters easily. I do not work freshly molded palm wax until it's had a chance to cure & harden for several days. When the wax is newly molded, the crystals are more fragile. Allowing the wax to "cure" (as with concrete, not fragrance) and harden for 2-5 days makes a LOT of difference in how well they hold up to finishing. HTH

PS I usually shine palm wax candles (unless I am trying to retain the "sparklies") to a high gloss as the last part of finishing. This helps to harden & strengthen the wax.

Edited February 5, 2010 by Stella1952

[Desertrose]

Thanks Stella. There's no getting around it is there....votives are just the bane of my life, lol!

[Meridith]

Desertrose,

You are another one that makes gorgous pillars

[soy327]

I agree:yay:

[Stella1952]

I'm on board, too!!!:yay:

[soy327]

stella, I'm not sure this looks right, I'm freaking out LOL

Edited February 6, 2010 by soy327

[Stella1952]

Looks right to me.

[soy327]

OK, my husband got up this morning and said what did you do to that candle LOL

I forgot to spray mold release and I got steric acid but it didn't say palm so I wasn't sure and didn't use it. Thanks for the help Stella.

Hope it comes outa the mold.:laugh2::laugh2:Oh well my 1st experience huh.

Linda

[Stella1952]

Did you ask if it was palm stearic? Only one way to know, so give the supplier a call. Even without mold release and extra stearic acid, palm wax contracts a lot, so demolding should not be a big deal. Because you are using a wick & screw (rather than a wick pin) you should have no problems with mold vacuum either. Bet it'll slide right outta there. I like to demold palm pillars when they are still slightly warm (and I do mean SLIGHT), but honestly, waiting until they are absolutely cooled (like the nest day) is when you will see maximum contraction of the wax...

OK, my husband got up this morning and said what did you do to that candle LOL

Yeah, it DOES look mighty rough, doesn't it? Now you understand what I meant when I tell folks to be NEAT as they do this because if you are not, it makes a much bigger mess to finish later on. The "boogers" are easiest to smooth when they are just set up but still warm... I have an old thin bladed palette knife (for mixing oil paint) that cleans those bumpies off very easily.

Be careful when demolding - new palm wax crystals crush easily, especially corners. Have you demolded it yet? Wanna see the photo... Have fun!

[soy327]

I didn't dawn on me until I got home from work and the bag said "steric acid" Peak was already closed for the day. So I decided not to use it until I can call on Monday. Then forgot the spray mold release I have, man I had everything ready and laid out taking my time to do it right. heated my oil and did use the lavender powder very carefully.(bye the way I did pay attention to what you and Top said about the powder). It worked great and heated my mold a little, my room was 79 degrees, then it came to wrecking, I put on my glasses:laugh2::laugh2:and started cutting. Well you know the rest.

I can demold later today? Can't wait and I will take pictures. Now I have to figure out how to fix the bottom of the candle without ruining it. can I put a cookie sheet on my flat top on low and just make a couple passes?

It's Candle Science Laveder Vanilla YEAH. Can you tell I'm exited!!!:yay::yay:

WOW,

Linda

[Stella1952]

From Peak's website...

Stearic Acid, also known as Stearin, increases the hardness and opacity of wax. Typical usage is 1-3 TBS per pound (2-5% by weight).

Also commonly used in soaps and lotions as an emolient and thickener.

100% kosher (all vegetable origin), triple pressed.

That'll work just fine.

I can demold later today? Can't wait and I will take pictures. Now I have to figure out how to fix the bottom of the candle without ruining it. can I put a cookie sheet on my flat top on low and just make a couple passes?

Yes, you can demold, but wait a few days to allow the wax crystals to harden before finishing the bottom. Just set it aside somewhere out of your sight. Use the time to find an old griddle or electric skillet at a yard sale. The set-up with the cookie sheet sounds a little flakey to me - sure wouldn't want you to have melted wax all over everything...

I am very familiar with that FO and it's a very good thrower for me in both soy & palm wax.

[soy327]

I have the skillet I will wait I'm patient too.

glad to know the steric acid is right might do another one tomorrow, before the game (I'm hooked). Bye the way I'm betting on the Saints, goint to a party where I'm making it a ritual to also sell my Valentines candles. Did it last year and the host loved it.

I need a Red beer,:laugh2:

Linda

P.S. I can't wait to do the pick I will do it later today, say a prayer I hope it looks as good as it smells.

[lrbd]

STELLA how do you do that !!! it's so pretty . do a Tutorial pretty please