Stearic Acid in Sugar Scrub

[Sally]

Hi everyone, I haven't been around much lately but dropped by when I had a quiet moment last w.e.

I was looking at the sugar scrub class & think I'll have a try.

If all goes well it will be added to my growing repertoire of goodies on sale.

However here in U.k our products for sale have to be certified by a cosmetic chemist & the ingredients included on an assessment.

Although my assessment covers a wide range of ingredients & products stearic acid is the one missing ingredient.

Can anyone tell me what the stearic acid does in the recipe & is there an alternative which may be used (it may well be on my assessment)?

Is the stearic acid that I've used in my candles the same or is there a cosmetic version? Just spotted an old post telling me it is, so that's that answered.

I've not seen it used in other sugar scrub recipes I've seen so I'm going to have a play this w.e & see how things go tho any help or advice will be most gratefully received......lol I have now surprising what a better search can turn up!

So now I've searched some more I've also seen folk using cetyl alcohol in their sugar scrubs could that be used in place of stearic acid? Not that it makes a difference to me, it's not on my assessment either.

Thanks folks,

Sally.x

Edited January 21, 2010 by Sally
ETA

[bugtussle]

I use both stearic acid (the same as I use in palm candles) and cetyl alcohol in my scrubs as well as Ewax. They are all emulsifiers. Carole

[fairylite]

Stearic acid is indeed an emulsifier (if you are calculating HLB values, it's definitely included), however it's main function is to act as a thickener. Stearic and cetyl are similar in that they will both thicken up a product (lotion or sugar scrub), but stearic is often used for products you want to stay on the skin as it'll leave a "draggy" effect (like a body butter). Cetyl alcohol is better for products where you want more glide, and not necessarily for oils to stay on the skin.

[Sally]

Thanks ladies.

So if I only use the Ewax the scrub will not be as emulsified as it would be if I used that & the stearic acid.

As I have both I think I will make up 2 smaller batches & see which is preferred. The glide aspect isn't really an issue in this particular scrub so I can do without the cetyl alcohol.

I'll have to speak to my chemist & find out if I can get anything added to my assessment if the one with stearic is more popular.

Off to play now, thanks again.

Sally.x

[fairylite]

Thanks ladies.

So if I only use the Ewax the scrub will not be as emulsified as it would be if I used that & the stearic acid.

As I have both I think I will make up 2 smaller batches & see which is preferred. The glide aspect isn't really an issue in this particular scrub so I can do without the cetyl alcohol.

I'll have to speak to my chemist & find out if I can get anything added to my assessment if the one with stearic is more popular.

Off to play now, thanks again.

Sally.x

The emulsification of the scrub will depend on the amount of your e-wax. Stearic is not going to affect how well emulsifies, but rather the feeling that's left behind. Also, a scrub without stearic/cetyl is going to be less thick.

Like you said, try a batch with 3-5% stearic and a batch without to see what you like!

[ah-soy]

I personally don't like to use e-wax in my scrubs...just my opinion, but I think it contributes to some serious drain clogging.

I use stearic and polysorbate 20 and lots of sugar...works like a charm for me!

Edited January 24, 2010 by ah-soy

[Sally]

Well I made up a small batch with Ewax at 3% & no stearic acid & it emulsified beautifully, not too thick & not at all oily.

I've used it once so far, in the shower, with both a spoon & wet fingers as I want to see how well my preservative holds up if any water gets in & I've left the tub on the windowsill in the bathroom just to see the effect of sun on it....if we get any!

My skin felt gorgeous after with a lovely fragrance & was still feeling soft the next day, it went on easily & washed off with no problems & it was easy to clean out the bath after, unlike with my bath truffles!

I even had enough to give to friends to test.

The next batch will be with stearic for a comparison although if the stearic thickens a scrub even more than the Ewax alone I think it might be too thick & difficult to get out of the jar. I'll see when I've tried it.

Sally.x