WillowBoo Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Question....changed my wick from a CDN 12 to a CDN 16 because the flame was bouncing around. The meltpool and the scent throw was better with the smaller wick, but the stability of the wick was better with the larger wick...should I say it didn't wave around. Using a mix of C3 and 4630 in 16 oz. wide-mouth mason.What would you use? I'm thinking the cdn 16 was melting down more than melting outward.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 I use a CDN 14 for 16 oz. widemouth canning jars (NatureWax C3 with USA & UV absorber, minimal liquid dye & FO 1 oz. pp). Some FOs might need to be wicked up one or down one, but the CDN 14 works for most of my FOs, most of the time. Reaches FMP on the second burn. Very good HT. HTH Veggie waxes do burn down, then out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillowBoo Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 Thanks Stella....tried the 14's and still don't have a full meltpool(6th burn I'm to). I swear, a 10 degree drop in temp make my candles burn differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Thanks Stella....tried the 14's and still don't have a full meltpool(6th burn I'm to). I swear, a 10 degree drop in temp make my candles burn differently.Earlier you said...Using a mix of C3 and 4630Since you are making your own parasoy blend, recommendations for straight C3 might not apply. Why are you mixing the C3 with paraffin? And how much are you mixing in? There is a big difference in wicking same size containers of C3 & paraffin... 6th burn I find this amazing!!! Are you burning for 3 hours each time? 10 degree drop in temp make my candles burn differentlyAre you talking about 10° in air temperature, pouring temperature or what? If you are talking about air temperature, sure it makes a difference! Candles burn differently at 40°F than they do at 85°F! When testing, you should try to keep all the environmental parameters the same, ie. test in a draft-free area at the same room temp each time! If you do not control the environmental conditions during tests, there's no way your results can be accurate nor consistent.Quite frankly, I think your "blend" is causing you a lot of problems! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillowBoo Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 I switched the percentages around and I THINK I have a good candle now. Only in the small square mason jar. I cannot wick the 16oz. large mouth mason (Kerr - plain ones) and I have a million, gazillion, of them here! I have tried everything except the premier or hemp wicks in my LM jars with 4630/c-3 blend. I like the throw of the 4630 and the c-3 added makes the blend just a bit creamy, not so opaque. I love the cdn's but the smallest I can get is a cdn 8 are they are too big for the small square mason (except for FO lemon verbena), so I switched to the HTPs for everything else...just cannot get the LM jars to work. But after months and months and MONEY invested, I can see how things do start to work....eventually, at least in part. Does anyone else notice that you have to wick-down when you use a heavier dye? (block-kind) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillowBoo Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 Stella - big difference in air temperature - just 10 degrees or so. I can't maintain temperature control unfortunately. I barely can for all my office computers. I'm in Western PA and one day it's 85 and the next it's 55. A nightmare. That would create issues for those who wick candles in the summer for Christmas use, wouldn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jennyjo Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Willowboo- I am in Western PA also and I have the same trouble. On hot days the candles burn easier and faster. My house is on the colder side in both summer and winter so I tend to wick a bit on the hot side for my candles. I don't use your wax or wicks though. My customers have never had any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillowBoo Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Thanks...that makes a lot of sense to me. Some of these scents I could MAYBE go down one size, but I think I will stick to the bigger size wicks as I plan on doing candles for Christmas gifts.Is the sun ever going to shine here?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 When testing, aim for an air temp range from 70°-85°F, with a mean around 73°F. Since you cannot guarantee that a candle sold in December will actually be burned in the winter months, it's a good idea to aim somewhere in the middle. No candle will burn perfectly in all air temps and climates, but you can get reasonably close - and a WHOLE lot closer than the majority of candles readily available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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