encore1074 Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 I Just Tried Palm Wax And Im Really Disappointed With It.the Flame Is Huge No Matter What Wick I Use With It And I Have Big Air Pockets Down The Middle Of The Candle.ive Tried Different Pouring Temps Anywhere From 180 To 203 And Its Still The Same,any Help Appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Please search the veggie wax forum for solutions to "air pockets." You did not mention what kind of palm wax nor whether this is a pillar or container and its size. The wicks matter - what type(s) did you try and their sizes? What kind of FO did you use and how much?Sorry, but without enough information, I wouldn't even venture a guess. The pouring temperature is important for proper crystallization but has nothing to do with the flame height of the wick. Fill in the gaps and we'll try to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
encore1074 Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 Im Using Glass Glow Wax In A 8 Oz Jelly Jar.ive Only Tried Htp's And Eco Wicks In Every Size They Make.when I First Light The Candle The Flame Is Really Huge And It Tunnels Down The Middle Really Fast Then It Slows Down And Almost Drowns Out.i Use 1 Oz Of Scent Per Pound Of Wax.ive Only Tried Lilac Scent From Candle Source So Far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 The reason the candle is forming air pockets is because you have not made any relief holes. When you light the wick, the melted wax is leaving the melt pool and filling the air pockets below, allowing too much wick to be exposed. I do not know what size Eco or HTP wicks to suggest as I don't use those, but I would try a CDN 10 and take action against the air pockets. Do prewarm your containers and make sure that the candles are cooling very slowly in a draft-free area. Sometimes it helps to cool them in the oven or under a box or with something placed over the top to help contain the heat so the candle cools more evenly and slow down the cooling. You will still have to make relief holes and do a second pour, which should be done while the candle is still warm. Search for "air pockets" and you will find many ideas of how to handle this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brudil18 Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 I have to agree with Stella. Once I started to pre warming my containers I have had no problem with air pockets. Not sure if that really makes a huge difference, but it sure helps to slow cool the candles. I pre heat my jars at 170 in the oven and take them out right before I'm ready to pour. They are usually in the oven for about 15 minutes prior to pouring. I also pre heat the pour pot as well. I pour at 200 and I've never had air pockets since. I guess I've gotten pretty lucky because I don't cover them after pouring. I just cool them on a cookie rack and I seem to get pretty good results.Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrycat Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 I have to agree with Stella. Once I started to pre warming my containers I have had no problem with air pockets. Not sure if that really makes a huge difference, but it sure helps to slow cool the candles. I pre heat my jars at 170 in the oven and take them out right before I'm ready to pour. They are usually in the oven for about 15 minutes prior to pouring. I also pre heat the pour pot as well. I pour at 200 and I've never had air pockets since. I guess I've gotten pretty lucky because I don't cover them after pouring. I just cool them on a cookie rack and I seem to get pretty good results.Hope this helps. Very well said!! I have no more problems, since I started heating my jars first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carol M Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 I most always have good luck with HTP 105 in regular jelly jars and container palm. You must poke relief holes, though, to avoid the craters beneath the surface. I actually do more than that because I'm so paranoid about air pockets.:embarasse After the top surface of the candle has formed a crust (not too thick), I take a wooden skewer and basically bash in the center of the top to make sure liquid wax flows down into the craters. I repeat this once or twice during the cooling process then smooth the top out with a heat gun. When I used to just poke a few holes, I had trouble keeping them open and when I did the repour to fill them in, sometimes the new wax didn't go down into the holes. Others do it fine, though, so maybe I just wasn't doing it correctly. Most of the palm jars I have made were with Palm I from Candlewic, but I have done a few with Glass Glo and HTP 105 worked in those also. Hth a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 Carol, I do the same thing with the air pocket prevention with all palm wax candles we make. Those pesky pockets - even small ones - can really foul up the burn on a palm wax candle... Little skewer holes and a repour just didn't eliminate the voids well enough for me - the wax hardens before it gets to the bottom of skinny little relief holes as you described. It's pretty easy to finish off tops with a repour or heat gun. I finish pillar bottoms by sliding them over a hot surface until they are level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dancswbirds Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 Hi, I'm a newbie and I just poured my first Palm Container candles yesterday. I used RobNat 1226 Container Blend with a HTP-105 wick. My containers are 10" & 16" Apothecary. I poured at 180 into my heated containers. Then placed on a rack and covered with a box. They turned out beautiful! I'm test burning one now and I'm not at all happy with the burn. At first the flame was high, but then it burned low and the melt pool is only about 2" across. Shouldn't it burn all across the container? Should I have used 2 wicks? and if I go back and try that is the HTP-105 going to be to big??. and another thing, DO I need to poke releif holes and do a repour? They are smooth across the top but from what I've been reading I'm a little afraid of air pockets.I have tons of questions..Sorry!!! Any suggestions would be most welcomed...Oh, and my containers are almost 4" across. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbug Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Hi dancwbirds,I have tried single wicking palm wax candles with poor results. I then started double wicking and testing those with much better results. I also use the 10 oz. and 16 oz. apothecary jars which are about 4" across. I am now starting to test with much smaller wicks because the ones I have been using seem to get the jar really hot. I do not like a really hot jar if it is avoidable at all. I would also follow Stella's advice and poke the relief holes and do a second pour.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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