cowgirl Posted December 22, 2006 Share Posted December 22, 2006 Would like to hear everyones ideas on checking for tunnels. What methods best works for you? Do you use a heat gun then poke around for air pockets (tunnels) OR do you poke around then use the heat gun ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Girl Posted December 22, 2006 Share Posted December 22, 2006 If this is an issue for you, you're probably pouring too hot. Take your pour temps down a bit and see how that works for you. You can wiggle the wick right before it sets up and hit the tops with a heat gun if necessary, just to be on the safe side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowgirl Posted December 22, 2006 Author Share Posted December 22, 2006 I use cargil C3 nature wax, suppose to melt at 175, pour at 155 to 165. I am getting uneven tops which is resulting in air pockets (tunnels). When I pour at 145 I get smooth tops but terrible jar adhesion. I guess its just a trade off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Girl Posted December 22, 2006 Share Posted December 22, 2006 100% soy is the work of the Devil fo' sho'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowgirl Posted December 22, 2006 Author Share Posted December 22, 2006 Yep I am finding that out, I am thinking about switching but I'm not sure what to switch to. The shipping cost on wax is unreal. $20 to ship a box from Illinois to Indiana. Just blows my mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted December 22, 2006 Share Posted December 22, 2006 We like C-3 very much! We melt at 160°-165°, temper, then pour at about 145°-155°, depending. The tops are very smooth and we do not have to do a second pour. We use liquid colorants which seem to work better for us than the solid color chippies. If you are having adhesion difficulties, try warming the jars before pouring. Be sure to allow them to cool to room temp slowly, out of drafts. After pouring our jars & tins, we check all the wicks one mo' time, then cover the cooling candles with a big ol' cardboard box.Keep trying - new things are frustrating to learn, but it sounds like you are right on the brink of "getting it." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandgirl Posted December 22, 2006 Share Posted December 22, 2006 You can always do a second pour... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowgirl Posted December 23, 2006 Author Share Posted December 23, 2006 I tried cooling in a box and got even bigger dents and bigger air pockets around the wick. I have seen post on here about big old drafty houses I am convinced that it is. However I will try the 160-165 and pour at 145 like you do. I have tried everything else, never know that might help. Thanks for all the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetiebugsmom Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 I use cargil C3 nature wax, suppose to melt at 175, pour at 155 to 165. I am getting uneven tops which is resulting in air pockets (tunnels). When I pour at 145 I get smooth tops but terrible jar adhesion. I guess its just a trade off.I USE C-3 ALSO, HEAT TO 175, ADD COLOR AND FRAGRANCE, COOL TO 120AND DO NOT HEAT JARS. POUR AT 120, LET SET UP THEN HIT TOPS WITH HEAT GUN. SUCCESS EACH TIME. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlemandave Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Is it like that with all scents or just a one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patience Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 Air temperature plays a part in this too. I bet you'll see better results when the weather warms up. (My house is drafty too!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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