GaryPC

I'm in SC and use Candle Science (right outside of Raleigh) for most of my stuff because their shipping rates are the best I have been able to get, since they are probably one of the closest suppliers near me. If you are close to the Raleigh area (or don't mind driving), you can pick up directly from them and save on shipping. I have tried several dozen of their fragrance oils and had pretty good luck with the majority of them, and their prices aren't too bad either.

Candle Science just got one, but I haven't tried it yet

Ok... here is a test using the ECO 10 after about 8 hours of burn time. Does these seem typical for 4627? This was my first test with it so I'm not sure at what point it should be. It seemed later in the burn that it was getting closer to the edges, so I think that had I been able to let it go longer that it might have made it to the side. HT was good with less than 24 hours of cure time (I was burning it down stairs and could smell it upstairs).

Sorry for the black color. I was doing a color test for a project

Lol. I decided to just start with a 10. If it doesn't work well then I'll just melt down the wax and rewick it with a 12

I am fixing to try making a candle in an apothecary jar with a 4" diameter, using 4627 with 8% FO (since this seems to be the suggested amount for this wax from what I have read). I am planning on using ECO wicks, since that's what I have on hand. I have tested this jar size in soy using an ECO 16, and it melts all the wax (including the sides), even though I think it burns a little quick. My supplier suggests an ECO 10 for a 3.5"-4" diameter jar. Would this be a good size or should I maybe start with an ECO 12?

Does the 4627 have the problem with frosting like soy waxes? It shows up really bad with the colored sous I did, so I'm wanting to prevent that.

I am trying to do a special project candle that requires some dark colors. I have tried soy, but it takes a large amount of color to get the colors I desire, and then makes frosting very evident. I haven't messed with parrafin before, so I am wondering how this one does with colors. Does anyone have any examples of candles poured with 4627? Thanks!

Thanks Stella. I am thinking about trying parrafin for what I am attempting, and it is my understanding that is holds dye better anyways, since the number of drops I had to use to get the color I want In the C3 is going to break me lol

I heat to the 185-190 range, take it off the heat and add my FO and dye. I don't prewarm my FO. I do prewash my jars. I stir regularly till its about 165 degrees. I take a hair dryer and warm the jar slightly. I noticed after a few days of curing that it has gotten a little worse. I'm thinking it might be a little cool in my house, which is accelerating it.

I tried it in C3 and it had a very light HT. May try it later in a bigger jar, but have others I'd rather test first.

I poured a 24 oz apothecary jar which is 4" in diameter with C3. My supplier suggested an ECO 16 for this jar size. After about 20 hours of burn time, approximately 1/3 of the candle has burned. It seems like this wick barely has enough to melt the wax on the sides, but consuming at this rate seems to me that is way over wicked. I have only used 6% FO and it isn't in an area that is drafty. I was figuring that a candle this size should give well over 100 hours of burn time, not around 60!

Frosting is very minimal, but they are darker colors, so it just stands out.

C3. You recommend if the previous layer has hardened to just slightly melt the top then?

I am having an issue with a layered candle and frosting. I am getting frosting where the two layers come together. That's the only place. I heated my jars with a hair dryer and everything else is fine. Any tips on how to prevent this at the seem of the two layers?

Thanks! I didn't realize it took that much. I just did a test and it took about 3 drops per ounce of wax to give me the color I needed.

Is is possible to get a nice real black color in soy, or just a dark grey? I did one drop per ounce of wax (18 oz of wax), and still just got a dark grey. I would think with that many drops that it should be as dark as night!

I agree that it could just be the individual. I have a candle that the scent will fill just about my entire house (upstairs and downstairs), but when I took it over to my 72 year old fathers house, he couldn't even smell it in the same room. Some people may be able to detect certain scents better than others, and that might be why she might smell the caramel one better.

if you take that water weight and multiply it by .86 you'll come out almost perfect on the amt of wax you need.

I thought that was pretty accurate too, until I tried it... measured out the appropriate amount of wax, and came up with a jar 3/4 full My 26 oz jar takes 24 oz of wax, my 16 oz jar takes 17 oz of wax, and my 8 oz jar takes 10 oz of wax (can't figure that one out!)

I found the best thing is just melt some plain wax (you're not wasting it because you aren't adding FO or color), put a hot pot holder on your scale (if your scale surface is plastic, and you don't want to melt it), then your jar, and tare it out. Then just pour the wax to your fill level, and you get what your net weight will be. Took me about 5 minutes to do all my jars, and I now have accurate net weights for all my jars. When I add the FO and dye, it may make it slightly over, but to me it is better to be slightly over than under!

Oh that would really be dangerous, those torches are powerful. I use that for my basketry and have burned several baskets up!

The one I have has an attachment on it that only allows the hot air to blow out. So I can touch up a very small spot with the surgical precision like Stella said. I paid around $25 for it at Walmart, and it uses the refillable butane that only cost a couple of dollars an can, and seems to last forever!

Stella, I got it from Lonestar, but it was in a 10 lb bag, so it didn't have a lot number. The new that I made and have burned without problem is from a 50 lb box I just got in from Candle Science. I did a second day of burn as well with no bubbles, so that is making me

You may be right, but I'm leaning towards a bad batch of wax. I just poured a few test candles in a 4" 8oz apothecary jar with ECO 16 wick. I burned one of them for about 6 hours and didn't see a single bubble like before. I was actually surprised that is took about that long to reach a full melt pool though, but this is my first time testing a 4" jar

Well, I'm perplexed since I got minimal bubbles released during heating, but a ton in the candles. I heated to 185, poured slowly and carefully at around 160. Maybe I'll try pouring slightly hotter. I just got a new case in today, so I'm going to test tomorrow. Hopefully it was just a bad batch.

Stella, let me ask you this since I have been heating mine to the 185-190 range. Is there an approx amount of time it should remain at this temperature to allow all the bubbles to escape? I had been heating mine to this, adding the FO and then removing from the heat. I was using a double boiler, but I now have a presto and digital thermometer, so I shouldn't have a problem keeping a constant temperature for a longer period

My local craft store had a super sale price on mason jars, so the wife and I stocked up between me and her craft business. Anyways, I am looking for suggestions on wick sizes to use as I haven't done Mason jars before. These are standard Ball Mason jars in pint and quart size. I use C3 wax, and normally use ECO wicks. I was thinking maybe a 10 or 12, but looking for suggestions for those who have used the jars with this wax before. Thanks!

Nevermind... I finally found a post that answered my questions. I think I will just stick with the C3