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GaryPC

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  1. I'm in SC and use Candle Science (right outside of Raleigh) for most of my stuff because their shipping rates are the best I have been able to get, since they are probably one of the closest suppliers near me. If you are close to the Raleigh area (or don't mind driving), you can pick up directly from them and save on shipping. I have tried several dozen of their fragrance oils and had pretty good luck with the majority of them, and their prices aren't too bad either.
  2. Candle Science just got one, but I haven't tried it yet
  3. Ok... here is a test using the ECO 10 after about 8 hours of burn time. Does these seem typical for 4627? This was my first test with it so I'm not sure at what point it should be. It seemed later in the burn that it was getting closer to the edges, so I think that had I been able to let it go longer that it might have made it to the side. HT was good with less than 24 hours of cure time (I was burning it down stairs and could smell it upstairs). Sorry for the black color. I was doing a color test for a project
  4. Lol. I decided to just start with a 10. If it doesn't work well then I'll just melt down the wax and rewick it with a 12
  5. I am fixing to try making a candle in an apothecary jar with a 4" diameter, using 4627 with 8% FO (since this seems to be the suggested amount for this wax from what I have read). I am planning on using ECO wicks, since that's what I have on hand. I have tested this jar size in soy using an ECO 16, and it melts all the wax (including the sides), even though I think it burns a little quick. My supplier suggests an ECO 10 for a 3.5"-4" diameter jar. Would this be a good size or should I maybe start with an ECO 12?
  6. Does the 4627 have the problem with frosting like soy waxes? It shows up really bad with the colored sous I did, so I'm wanting to prevent that.
  7. I am trying to do a special project candle that requires some dark colors. I have tried soy, but it takes a large amount of color to get the colors I desire, and then makes frosting very evident. I haven't messed with parrafin before, so I am wondering how this one does with colors. Does anyone have any examples of candles poured with 4627? Thanks!
  8. Thanks Stella. I am thinking about trying parrafin for what I am attempting, and it is my understanding that is holds dye better anyways, since the number of drops I had to use to get the color I want In the C3 is going to break me lol
  9. I heat to the 185-190 range, take it off the heat and add my FO and dye. I don't prewarm my FO. I do prewash my jars. I stir regularly till its about 165 degrees. I take a hair dryer and warm the jar slightly. I noticed after a few days of curing that it has gotten a little worse. I'm thinking it might be a little cool in my house, which is accelerating it.
  10. I tried it in C3 and it had a very light HT. May try it later in a bigger jar, but have others I'd rather test first.
  11. I poured a 24 oz apothecary jar which is 4" in diameter with C3. My supplier suggested an ECO 16 for this jar size. After about 20 hours of burn time, approximately 1/3 of the candle has burned. It seems like this wick barely has enough to melt the wax on the sides, but consuming at this rate seems to me that is way over wicked. I have only used 6% FO and it isn't in an area that is drafty. I was figuring that a candle this size should give well over 100 hours of burn time, not around 60!
  12. Frosting is very minimal, but they are darker colors, so it just stands out.
  13. C3. You recommend if the previous layer has hardened to just slightly melt the top then?
  14. I am having an issue with a layered candle and frosting. I am getting frosting where the two layers come together. That's the only place. I heated my jars with a hair dryer and everything else is fine. Any tips on how to prevent this at the seem of the two layers?
  15. Thanks! I didn't realize it took that much. I just did a test and it took about 3 drops per ounce of wax to give me the color I needed.
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