robertgibbens

I started off testing 4627 (comfort blend) but found it smoked too much with an HTP wick large enough for a FMP using 1.2 oz./lb of scent. I switched to 4630 and have loved it (though I have to use a touch of vybar to prevent the oil from leaking). I have never used the C-series wicks. Only HTP. They curl which prevents a lot of mushrooming and their relatively self trimming.

First off to fix a misconception, soy was is no more "natural" than paraffin and certainly no less clean burning. Soy is lucky enough to have the soot it produces be white in color so its less visible. Soy soots just as much as paraffin. As far as natural, prior to being turned into soy wax, the product is sent to a chemical company to be hydrogenized (have hydrogen added to the wax) to make it semi-solid. Dont be surprised to see arguments from those who sell only soy. When your selling an inferior product (for scent throw and color), you hang on to whatever benefits you can find. Soy is sustainable which is good. And it keeps American farmers working (which is fantastic).

Determining how to set up a business is not rocket science. I have a s-corp engineering biz and 2 llc businesses (including my candle biz). You do not need to waste yur money on a lawyer. Llc is the way to go.

800 to set up an llc? That's why I left Cali. As I remember, cost me 35 bucks here in hawaii...

My pillars burn all the way down with no left over until the wick burns out. Those look good but may be slightly under wic'd. May be safer that way.

Heating wax directly in a burner is as safe as you make it. Using a pesto pot is the same as directly on a burner. I recommend buying a cord thermometer with a temp alarm so you'll never forget about wax on the burner. Mine costs 20 bucks at walmart.

I use wooden matches to light a scentless white taper candle which I then use to light candles. This works well when testing 10 to 15 candles at once.

It's not about what temp you pour at. It's more about how quickly the candle cools at. Pour at 125 and cool it slow. Put a cardboard box over the top of the candle so it cools slower.

FO load does affect MP diameter. But colorant, vey bar, and other additives affect it far more. The sheet pan wick test is an inefficient method and should be avoided by anyone who doesn't have unlimited time and money...

I think the issue of curing has been resolved with only 1 of many believing its an issue. Enough said. I don't believe a primed wick has any affect on HT. Not logical.

Do you know my level of expertise? Obviously you do not. But you think I should believe a company that failed at wax making? Pretty naive.

Curing of paraffin candles is not necessary. I've not heard anyone argue that until now. Is trust the masses, not the single. I sell hundreds of paraffin candles per week. My info is my experience. By the way. 24 hrs is not curing. No one will sell a candle and burn it before that.

Paraffin wax candles do not need curing. If anyone actually looked at the photo they would have noticed that the melt pool is perfect. I don't believe its a wick problem. Id bet my money on your nose just getting used to the smell. Makes sense if others experience the same thing if they have noses too!!

They simply make 2 sizes. I have seen both sizes still on sale today.

I also have a question with the glue gun wicking??? I use wicker stickars and they WORK.The glue gun when we first started didn't work.Wicks came loose.I found that before I started putting our candles on the market, Thankfully!!!

I agree with another.Why the pretty packaging??? She prob doesn't do shows etc but the first thing people want to see are the candle and to smell them.If she did shows I have to assume she doesn't package.It is attractive but a waste IMO.Just jacks the price up.WOW $20.00.None would sell in Ohio.At least not this area. We get customers from parts of Ohio and they feel taken if they pay $8.00 for a 8 ounce candle JJ.

Other than that she has a great production system going.A big operation so it must be working.

LynnS

Wick stickers are guaranteed to not always stick. I used to be a believer until I had several

fail during test burns....

Peak has discontinued sale of their metal ball molds. Anyone know if none else still sells them? Can't seem to find them...

Soy wax is not organic though. It's hydrogenized to turn it into candle wax which means that a chemical company adds hydrogen to it in a very chemical process....

Its primary drawback is that it takes 24 hours to fully set, though if i'm in a rush I will pour after 4 or 5 hours. I have found it impossible to pull the wick off after 4 hours so I believe its set.

Yes its standard auto gasket sealer. Red goo in a red tube!

Never cared for Peaks French Vanilla but love their Vanilla Passion. Maybe that's what they sent you.

If your thinking that a safe candle is one where the wick is not secured to the bottom of the jar then you need to do a lot more research. As soon as the wax melts enough to near the bottom of the candle that same wick clip that wanted to slide prior to being waxed will slide, likely when the wick is burning. Highly likely that the potential fire that ensures will not be as pleasant as the candle.

In other words...... Secure the clip to the jar using something high temp resistant. Many use Permatex gasket sealer. You will never ever get a wick that loosens with Permatex. Your guaranteed to have one loosen using wick tabs.

Making a safe candle is as simple as reading as much as you can from this board. There are hours and hours if tips, tricks, and testing methods that can be found. But you have to put in the research time.

I stick hundreds of tins with 3 oz. of permatex. You don't need to use much.

LX wicks do not curl. My HTP curling wicks have never caused me a problem in jars as large as 3.5 inch diameter.

Justrightcandles.net or .org or .something else would likely work.

You would probably have better luck melting the damaged hurricane down and learning how to make a new one with the previously embedded shells and the old and new wax. I don't think you will be able to match the wax shape or color (older wax will a different color white than the newly melted).