Dave

The CB excel has given me better cold and hot throw, and little to no frosting. I've had to add coconut oil to it in the last month or so to fight frosting at aprox 2 tsp pp. I blame this on the cooler and more humid Seattle weather. Using the Advanced, no matter what I tried, I always got frosting. I used a cooling box with and without racking, heated jars,co,stearic acid, and plain open air cooling, as well as what seemed like a million different pour temps. I just could not make a nice candle. If for some reason I did make a nice one, within a week it frosted. I thought maybe I had bad wax, so I ordered from 4 different suppliers, and I got the same results from all wax samples. I did seem to get a decent candle after the wax had been re melted 3 or 4 times The frosting was almost nonexistant then. It was way to time consuming to make a candle to keep using it.

Thankyou all. We have only been making candles for around 4 months now.Your kind words will go along way in keeping our wicks burning in this adventure ! @ quietgirl2004...Peaks is our main supplier for fo. I have a Swans around 1/2hr south of me, so I use them for the " dangit, I just ran out of scent, or(insert your own inventory item you might forget to order) "

You should have good luck with it. I think 90% luck is great :highfive: Maybe I should have stuck with it more, but I tried the cb-excel, and have better luck with it. I posted some pics over in the candle gallery.The last one is my container with the stearic acid (sold as container palm ).Not the best lookin stuff, but it works:laugh2:

Here are some pillars the wife and I have poured for a "thanksgiving" theme [ATTACH]20831[/ATTACH] Blackraspberry in starburst [ATTACH]20832[/ATTACH] Brownsugar/fig, Apple cobbler/Plum/Cherry cobbler, Cappuccino Hazelnut in starburst, and Huckleberry Harvest in the crystalbrite [ATTACH]20833[/ATTACH] same as above [ATTACH]20834[/ATTACH] Brownsugar/fig, and Huckleberry Harvest [ATTACH]20835[/ATTACH] Cobbler tri-layer. The candycorn is ecosoy pb [ATTACH]20836[/ATTACH] Blackraspberry and Brownsugar fig in starburst [ATTACH]20837[/ATTACH] Huckleberry Harvest and Cappaccino Hazelnut One on the left I mixed some stearic into it, and the middle pulled in a bit.... [ATTACH]20838[/ATTACH] Huckleberry, Blueberry Cobbler, and Monkeyfart Same as above with the stearic with the Huckleberry [ATTACH]20839[/ATTACH] The Status Jar is poured with 100% vegetable stearic acid. We have just recieved some glassglow from Peaks, and will test that soon.I think it will be a nicer looking jar. They are made from Crystal Brite Palm PB wax that I got from Swans. Thanks for looking

Glad the wax seems good ! ( I didnt think it would be bad ) Maybe keep all the future pours at around 100 then to match the VH. Im curious if you're using a cooling rack and/or a box, or just open air method. I could never get good consistant results with the CBA.

Maybe $200 - 225 USD? , but possibly less depending on mold shape. Hard to really say.....hmmmmm

Welcome, and Hello Im fairly new hear as well...maybe we will bump into one another around here ! lol

Are you putting relief holes in, and repouring? From reading past posts, some people do, and others dont. I havent so far, and I am not sure if I need to. On my pillars, I've cut apart some testers, and had very minimal air pockets,most were pocket free. So far my containers have been poured using pure veggie steric acid from Swans...it is sold as container palm, but I have some comming from Peaks in a few days, and cant wait to try some actual glass Glow. I have used both wood and regular wicks, and I havent noticed any kind of flareups that would indicate an air pocket. My jars are the 12oz status and 12oz libby square.

I will agree with you on that...cleanup is so much nicer . My wife and I are now working with feather and starburst for our pillars, and I just ordered some GG to try containers now. I have good hopes for them as it seems to be a nice wax to work with, and with great looking results.

This might be a blessing in disguise for you with the CBA. With my experiences with it, it seemed to give better results after a remelt ( im no expert with it...maybe used 30# of it ). You may have affected the wax enough to actually make it worthwhile using :rolleyes2...im just joking:)

You should have no problems with it. Your working temps are 175-185 deg to mix with your fo and dye, and your storage never got close to those temps...we hope

From what i have gathered from other posts, the cd 16 and 18 seem favorable to the status jars and excel. I havent used the excel myself yet, but it should be here on the 8th. I messed up my order, and have a bunch of Lx's coming from CS ( They were going to be for the cb-advanced that i have, and will be mixing with the excel )

Yes, I am going to make candles out of these. The wicks are not installed so that I can make sure that I can get a good looking candle before i begin my test burns.Once made, drill hole,install wick, test test test.When all is good, I'll glue a tabbed wick in place and then repour. I have been using 8 oz wide mason jars prior to these with very nice results.They are wicked with HTP 105's. The containers pictured above have always had the co used in them. My masons for the most part have been poured with the co aswell. Same preperation on the glasswear, and the same mixing temp. Looking over my notes again, I see that I have been pouring the masons at 150 and just leaving them on my counter to cure without rack and box. Maybe the cooling has been altered by using the rack and box...hmmm. The status jar ( middle one in pic ) has the exact same diameter as my masons...3 inches. Im going to try another pour at 150 and open air cooling to rule out the box/rack idea i guess. Btw, the coke glass was just an experiment .If it poures / wicks good, fine.If not, no big deal.Im not putting a lot of effort into it. Its the status jar im really concerned with getting right. At the moment,anyways

First of all, im new to this ! This is my second pour in these containers.The first pour was done at 150 for all 3 containers, and it resulted in horrible frosting in all. The tops looked perfect. The containers were hand washed and dry 2 hours before each pour, and were room temp at pour time. Both pours were cooled under a box with a wire rack. The second pour temps were from left to right 150, 115, and 130. My wax is CB Advanced with Peak's 'Canteloupe' @1oz pp, and using Peaks dye chips - 1 rust and 2 orange in a 1.5 pound batch. Wax was melted at 180, 1.5 tsp co for 1.5 pound batch, and fo added at 170. The frosting I believe is much better, as only the status jar is showing just a slight trace after diffrent temp changes over 3 days now. What i dont understand is why the tops have all developed the cracked circle in the center. Both pours cooled the same amount of time, and the first pour didnt have the cracks, while being poured at same temp as the coke glass. What did I do wrong?

I am new to candle making, and this is the first wax i have used, and it seems that some of my first votives had your issues. I stepped up my wick size a little bit, and things got a lot better. I am not using the Eco wicks, but have had great results with HTP 73's , zinc 44-42-18, and a cottoncore 51-36-18. Some of the recogmended wicks for votives with this wax are the lx 12 and 14, which I am going to try soon. I'll have to say to just keep testing till you get it right.Seems like your almost there :)Its a pain in the butt, but worth it in the end