Mama Turtle

The reason I poured so hot is because I tested a glas glow and poured to low (175) and did not get a nice pattern. I wanted to make sure to get the tortoise pattern. I did not have any blotchy patches....clean right out of the mold. It was also clean after the 1st burn, but after it cooled from the blow out, there are white freckles around the ring that melted though and caused the wax to drip out on the outside of the pillar. Inside has frosting as well.

I think you could write up a starting guideline, but then folks will have to test around that point to see what works for them in their own workshop.

Heated dye (2 dye chips), wax (1 lb), and UV inhibitor (1/2 tsp) to 200. Removed from heat, added FO (1 oz), stirred for 2 mins, put back on heat to ensure correct temp and poured at 190. Warmed mold in oven before pouring and cooled on wire rack with styrofoam cooler on top. It was about 73 degrees in the room I was pouring in.

I am not having issues of frosting after initial pour, but after they are placed in a boutique to sell. I suspect it is the flourescent light and uneven temps in the shops. I can't imagine they run their air/heat overnight.

Thanks!! I was surprised at how well it came out on my first try. 1st burn was 3 hours and flame was steady but huge (btw 1.5-2 inches which scares me), blow out happened 2 hours into 2nd burn (flame still huge with a few puffs of black smoke. Next, I will try CSN 11 or CSN 9. Want to have it ready for the holidays.

I do not even use a thermometer anymore. The temp in my house and outside is so varied throughout the year, that it is dependent on appearance and feel for me. If it is warm in the house and outside, I pour more on the cool side. If it is cold in the house and outside, I pour more on the warm side, but just use the appearance and feel as my guide. When I first started making candles and someone on the board said they do not use a thermometer, I was wondering how they did that. After many many many candles later, I now understand. Sorry I could not be more help.

Here is my first tortoise palm pillar in Bayberry. On 2nd burn with CSN 12 had a blow out. Time to wick down.

[ATTACH]19913[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]19914[/ATTACH]

Did you have a flickering flame at all with the CDN 12? I am currently testing CD 12 and HTP 105 in the same jar and the flames seem to flicker constantly. The flames also started out very large and have mellowed as the burn goes on. Just starting to play with GG again and used to the nice small flames I get with GB 464.

If definitely looks like frosting to me....in a very bad way...entire candle. I have seen some of my purples fade at outdoor shows right in front of me to a greyish color, but the shop candles definitely looked frosted to me. I currently do not add anything to my 464 wax, but the FO and dye chips, but I do put in extra chips for vibrant colors. I will give the UV inhibitor a try. Thanks for responding!!

I have my candles in a few boutiques and I am finding that the flourescent light is making most of my candles frost even though they were not that way to begin with. I know that soy is very sensitive to light and heat, but is there anything I can add to help prolong the shelf life of the dye?? Will the UV inhibitor help at all? Thanks for any suggestions!!

Just as I suspected. Wax too cool and jars not hot enough. Not pretty, but worthy of a test burn for wicks. I need to do better with my timing.

Ok. Just poured mine as well. My temp also dropped down to 175 and I just poured it anyway to see what would happen. I think I may get horizantal lines instead of a nice pattern..they are resting nicely under a cooler and I will peak tomorrow.

I need to pour some soy tonight for a show, but if I am up for it, I am going to try some GG from CS. I have done a few previous testers late last year, so here are my specs/best guess for my latest experiment:

12 oz status jar

Jack frost

6% FP pp

CD 12

HTP 105

Heat to 200 with dye chips

Add FO

Pour at 185-195

Cool with wire rack and styrofoam cooler on top

Tried CD14 and CSN 14 and seemed too hot with huge flame

I will post pics as soon as I can. Funny...re drink/beer. My hubby is a home brewer and we have a kegerator. Maybe I will post some pics of that too.

Happy testing!!

Mama Turtle

Agree. Designer 218 is the best. If you want some web templates, boutique mama is great too!

NG's French Lavender is nice in GB 464.

With all the posts about testing palm wax, I really need to take the plunge. I told myself I would start testing a while back and just got too busy. Thanks for the inspiration!!

Mama Turtle

I am testing these two fragrances in GB 464 (1 oz pp) and not getting much throw at all. Is anyone having luck with these two fragrances? If so, how much FO are you using. I only cured for 3 days each, but usually for my winning oils, I only cure for 2 days and have no throw issues. I really like these two fragrances OOB, but do not seem to be working in my wax. Any suggestions? Thanks!!

Fig Tree from CS is nice too!

I sell at outdoor farmers markets in the South and have found that any temps above 85 degrees will begin to harm my soy candles (GB 464). I use dye, so the damage from heat to my candles is clearly noticable. I always take a thermometer with me and it is always hotter under my tent than the air temperature. Radiant heat from the ground really seems to increase the heat under the tent. I use the cooler method as well, but in extreme heat, this does not always help. Too much ice in the cooler will change the appearance of candles and if it is too warm outside, then rotating usually does not help much either. I have found that if I do not put my candles on the table, people tend to just walk by. Once the temps are consistantly above 85 degrees, I just do not sell during those months at the farmers markets. For me, it is not worth the damage to my product. I also place a fan on my table to help circulate the air, but I think you will have to just experiment with different options and then see what works best for you.

Good Luck!!

Mama Turtle

Thanks so much!

I use your same combination for tea lights (GB 464 and TL 13) with no problems so far. I have been watching my FOs that require a bigger wick and those even tested out fine with the TL 13. It is a pretty small flame (which I like...I dislike the huge flames) and there is usually some wax left in the bottom of the cup. All HTP wicks do not burn up all the wax from my experience. Good luck with your testing....

Kellie

MamaTurtle.com

Anyone know who carries the Body Shop Grapefruit FO Dup? Or, one similar. I use GB 464. Thanks for any help!!

Kellie

MamaTurtle.com

I am also with Designer 218 and Mandi is the best!! I do not have HTML experience and when I got stuck, she responded to my questions quickly. It seems like a daunting task, but once you get in there and work through it, you will be able to edit/change your web site with ease. Good luck!!

mamaturtle.com

Thanks for the warm welcome!!

Hello All!!

I am new to the forum, but not new to hand crafting soy candles. My current wax of choice is GB464, but will be testing GG very soon to see how it holds up in the southern heat. Look forward to sharing information.

Mama Turtle

http://www.mamaturtle.com/