wonderfullywicked

Have you tried the Sandy Rose from AH/RE? The notes say no discoloration.

They look wonderful!

You can always try placing all the base in a double boiler, melting it and keeping it melted and heated for at least 1/2 an hour. I have had some success with this method for curing grainy shea. Not guaranteeing it, but it would be worth a try. You could also add some oil such as SAO or Sunflower oil while it is melted.

The shrink bands are 35x90. WSP sells 50 for $1.65. Elements has them also. I can't remember where I had gotten mine, but the WSP ones have the perforation down the side instead of across the top.

I use these from online labels. OL5125WX - 2" x 1" Labels. I use the clear laser ones and then put a shrink wrap over the top. The shrink wrap is perforated at the top, leaving the shrink band over the label. I also use the same label for lip balms.

That's why co-ops were created. 7.95/lb and free shipping to the hostess.

Try 2.33" (2 and one third). That will make them less than 1/4" smaller than your regular bars. :smiley2:

My suggestion is to check for extra line feeds. If you have an extra 'return', it might cut your one line in half.

Sadly, it's been discontinued. Any suggestions, please? Thanks!

KY has my favorite OMH that turns cp a light tan color. It's a best seller for me, both in cp and other B&B.

Absolutely stunning and breathtaking. Good job. Keep 'em coming girlie!

I've used cosmetic glitter with the fragrance oil. Very tiny stuff, never tried the bigger stuff. It worked very well.

I've always used water soluble food colorings. Salts go in a ziploc with a couple of drops of color or a dab of paste...knead and shake in the bag.

I've had that happen to me recently. I just dumped it all back into a stainless steel pan......and placed it in a 200 degree oven and basically hot processed it.

Chunk up the hard stuff, dump in the oil and stir. Melt in the oven and stir every 1/2 hour or so, until it turns translucent and thick (about 3 hours for my 10# batch). When it's all melted/mixed just repour into your mold. Hope this helps! Good luck!

Mine didn't turn dark...and the smell is totally awesome.

Applicious

Sweet Apple Medley

I have an older Upland with cut lines. No matter how careful I am, the bars are not uniform. If I had it to do over, I'd go with the no-lines.

I just got my Kelsei mold and I can't wait to do my first batch. All I need is distilled water - I can't believe I forgot to get some and it is snowing like a banshee here tonight, so it will have to wait until later this weekend. That's OK - it will give me time to re-read everything I read a month and a half ago that got me so excited to make CP soap! Can I have the dancing babies too when I get mine done? lol

Why not make snow soap? (That way you don't have to wait!)

WOW! I need to test some of this!

My first log molds were from old sewing machine drawers. They held a perfect 3# batch. I got 3 of them at an auction for $1.00. I used them ALOT.

Does your send out a blank sheet from the inner tray every time sometime is printed from tray 1 too? Mine keeps doing that.

This is a setting. Blank sheets between jobs is a spacer. It should be able to be turned to off on the printer, but may have to be turned off on the print menu (software) as well.

I dissolve my lye in 50% water. Any less water and the lye mixture will become a gel.

If you want to add the lye to the cold milk, you could use your stick blender on the milk before and after you chill it, I don't know that the random butterfat will resolidify.

Did you add the lye to the cold milk? I doubt if it is ruined, perhaps a bit cosmetically challenged. When I make my sour milk soap, I add the cold milk to the room temperaure oils and stick blend. When it's smooth, I add my room temp lye water. Seems to work well.

You are very welcome and I wish you much luck in your quest.