smellylittlemonkeys

... talk about a scentgasm in the shower!

I want one too! LMAO!!

Ummmm... an oven thermometer. Not trying to be a wiseacre... they don't cost much (a few bucks maybe?) and usually hang on the rack or set on it... You can find 'em at WalMart or the grocery store in the kitchen gadgets area.

I'm in SE LA, so I feel ya on the heat and humidity. Many other great chandlers hail from Texas and they manage to make great candles, so I have no doubt that you will learn how to make things work here in the Hades region, too!

I tried to use a notebook when I started with candles, but I kept misplacing it. Someone here a while back said that they use index cards for notes, so I stole that idea before the pixels even got clear on the monitor!

It helps to download the NatureWax C3 Handling Sheet from their site. Many folks don't because before you can download it, you have to fill in personal information so a NatureWax rep can contact you.:rolleyes2

If you can manage to make candles with two 3 year old house monkeys running around, you have my complete respect! It's all I can do to keep my little dog from becoming a dipped critter!

On the thermometer, I will have to look for one. Cooking is not my favorite past time so I don't spend much time in that aisle. That is why I asked what kind, thanks for letting me know there is such a thing.

The heat, oh the heat. Somedays it is so miserable. We don't really have enough of a winter to warrant buying winter clothes.

You said you would misplace the notebook so you use index cards, I would misplace those! I am a computer/internet person so I am thinking I might have better luck with the jump drive, we shall see.

I will have to get in touch with them to get the handling sheet. I did not realize there was one.

Funny about your little dog being a dipped critter! These kids keep me hopping but I love them bunches. I am sure my brain will be SO tired come this Fall when school for me starts back up from summer break. So I stay at home with two kids, a household, trying to figure out candle making, and am in school full time, can I add anything else??

Sorry I don't know much about your wax, BUT I did want to comment on your wick placement.

I don't know if you've tested these yet, but in t he photos the wicks look a little close to the sides of the jar to me. As long as the glass isn't getting too hot, even on powerburns and even by the time you're burning at the bottom of the jar, it's probably fine. My rule of thumb is that if I can't physically hold onto the jar after it's been burning a few hours then it's too hot.

Personally when I double wick I place the wicktabs with about a 1/4-1/2" space between them depending on size of jar.

HTH!

I've tested burned a couple of candles with this wick placement. To me it was not too hot, but I think I have a higher heat tolerance than some. For these I was using 2 ECO 6's. Now if I move them in closer would I have to wick up to get a full melt pool? I tried 2 ECO 10's with the same placement but they seemed to burn too fast, no tunneling though, just the depth of the melt pool got pretty deep fast. So would you suggest going with an ECO 8?

Stella 1952 has some very good reasoning. Without her I would have not heard of USA or coconut oil, using it in C3.

Thanks again stella my candles have been coming out great.

I agree Beagle and hope to learn from her as well as all the other great people on here.

Here's my observations, thoughts, questions and suggestions.

1) When you say "warm" oven, what TEMPERATURE are we talking about there? Use a thermometer. One person's "warm" may be too hot or too cool and quite different from another person's "warm." There is no "magic" about putting candles in an oven. It CAN be used to keep the air temperature more even as the candles cool and it can be used to "salvage" a batch of candles whose tops sucked, but it isn't a panacea in and of itself. If you don't use a thermometer, you have NO IDEA of what's going on in there!

2) I have found that excessive heat is the number one factor with frosting, cauliflowering and other undesirable changes in the crystalline structure of C3, both in heating, pouring and storage.

3) Nothing will totally eliminate all frosting problems forever in every FO and every color under all storage conditions. Soy wax is polymorphic and that is a given. If you want it to behave, you have to do what it likes and avoid what it doesn't. Knowing WHEN to use certain techniques is important, not to employ all of them at once!

4) Tempering does not simply mean turning wax on and off, heating it up to a high temp, letting it cool off, heating it up to a high temp again, etc. That ain't gonna get you where you want to go. It involves stirring and paying attention to the thermometer. Things have to happen at certain temps to achieve the goal of reducing the number of undesirable crystals and promoting the growth of desirable ones. While this may sound complicated, it is NOT. It requires understanding what you are doing and what you are trying to achieve and keeping an eye on things to insure good results.

5) While FOs should be added at temps above 150° and stirred WELL to fully incorporate into the wax, there is no reason to heat the wax much higher than 165-175° for any length of time.

6) Add ALL your ingredients to the wax flakes initially (except FO & dye). This will insure the best incorporation into the wax. Actually, I have found that adding dye sooner rather than later produces the best results, but many people make such small batches, it is difficult to do so.

7) Realize that it's much easier to get good, reliable results with large batches of wax colored and fragranced the same than it is with small batches. Changes happen slower and are better tolerated by a larger volume of a substance than a small volume. People who are making big batches of wax have fewer problems than those who are making a little bitty batch! This is WHY your candles don't look the same as when a larger volume of wax cools in the Presto. The environment INSIDE the Presto is also more static and cooling more slowly without drafts than on the countertop in small, individual containers, some clustered together (warmer areas) and some with their sides exposed to the air (cooler area). "Even cooling" means all the way around each candle.

8) You will not eliminate any issues by employing every technique and additive you've ever read about all at once! You may even cause problems you didn't have initially! For example - I do not use CO and USA together. I use one or the other. I found I had overall better results with USA than I did with CO because it covers a wider variety of issues than does CO.

9) When you are ready to tear your hair, go back to the basics and record EVERYTHING you do, at what temp you did it, how long you did it, etc. Don't jump around and skip steps. Many folks just jump in without ever having tested their wax fully. Like a float in stormy seas, you'll get bobbed all over the place by this person's advice or that person's observations if you don't have an anchor of your own. Don't simply listen to my or anyone else's experiences: LEARN via your OWN.

10) If you do not have the patience to logically troubleshoot issues, leave out the dye, reduce the amount of FO used and plan on a second pour. Now that isn't acceptable to me, but it makes others quite content, so it all depends upon what YOU are willing to do and your goals for your candles. HTH

Stella,

Thanks for taking the time to help me out with your thoughts and such.

1.) About the temp of the oven, I did not use a thermometer. What kind of thermometer would you use in an oven? What I did was heat up the oven to the lowest setting, 175, put in the jars and warmed them. When I took the jars out I turned off the oven. I'm guessing that it stayed at least 150 by the time I put the candles in after they were poured. Possibly this is too hot, not sure, as I said I am still trying to figure it all out.

2.) I should be in for a battle if excessive heat is a problem since I am in southeast Texas, it is always hot here!

3.) You are right, I guess I thought "the more the better" and was trying to use both additives.

4.) I would really like to learn more about this. I have done a search about it but apparently did not get it. Do you have a good starting point for this so I can know what to look for at the certain temps? I am going to PM you about this, ok?

5.) I was doing 185 as a starting point because that is what I read on the C3 but will keep this in mind.

6.) I am thinking this could have been an issue since I added the USA after I melted the wax flakes. At first I did not think it would be a big deal but, once again, learning.

7.) That makes perfect sense, thank you for explaining it that way.

8.) I am def. agreeing on this one! My first candle I poured looked better, with just the circle crack on top then what these last two did with all the additives.

9.) I have been writing down what I am doing with each pour. I actually had a really good spread sheet going but the computer gods ate it when my hard drive crashed! I am buying a jump drive specifically for my candles so if my PC takes a dump on me I will still have my info.

10.) I know I want to keep the dye, and don't want to have to do a second pour, afterall that is why I picked the C3 to start testing. I've got patience, I'm a stay at home mom to a 3 year old girl and a 3 year old boy. Have to have patience for that!

Thanks Stella!

Since I am new I am not really sure how a co-op is done. I do have a tax-id number so that would not be a problem.

The warmers are really cute!

ETA: Can't host because I have not been a member for 6 months, sorry guys!!

I have never had a problem with frosting with the C3. Wetspots and cracking on the tops, yes, but no frosting. For me it was a one pour because I just used a heat gun to smooth my tops!

I never preheat my jars and I only heated to about 170, pouring at 150. I did use CO but no USA. How did your candles come out before adding USA and CO to your formula?

You know, no matter what wax I've used it always looks better in the presto pot when it hardens than in the jars. Very intriguing and frustrating.

Before adding the CO and USA, there was not the mushy looking stuff on the tops or near as much frosting on the sides. But I did have the circle crack on them. Its not like I have made a lot as I am still very new. I did however make some Margarita candles and they were the first ones I cooled in the oven, had some CO in it but no USA, and they had a worse looking top then the ones cooled on a wire wrack on top of the oven. Sooo maybe my problem is within the cooling in the warm oven?

I was trying the oven because I am a hot natured person and when I get hot, well I get witchy . After I poured I wanted to turn the AC down and cool off. I think my next try I will heat the jars with the heat gun, that way the oven is not warm, and will cool in the oven to protect from drafts and see what I get.

If only the tops could look like what it does in the presto we would be set! Im trying to convince DH to solve this problem he needs to buy me a candle cabin (red barn storage building from Lowe's). That way I can get all my stuff out of the house, can make the temp right out there and can leave them on a table without worry that 3 yr old or 2 yr old fingers won't get in trouble. It's not working though

....As far as what your candles look like on the tops I used to have that too. Now I don't...What is your procedure when you make your candles?

This is how I do mine and they now come out just about perfect everytime depending on the temperature in my house....

I melt to 185 and immediately add my uv stabelizer and fragrance oil and stir.......Then let it cool down a bit....

I pour at 175.....

I usually do have to do a cap off (2'nd pour)...depending on the temperature as I said in my house as I might have a slight crack or indentation......

I slightly warm my jars too.....but I don't put them in the oven to cure......as when I did, they came out just like yours.....

I love the c-3 and have just accepted the fact there there really is no perfect 1 pour wax with no frosting or wet spot issues....

Hope this clears your mind a bit...

Trappeur

As I said in my first post I melted the wax before with the UV in it then returned to solid form as I was getting some USA from JBN so I wanted to wait on pouring. I re-melted, added the USA and then returned to a solid as I did not have time to pour that day, kids were being a booger. Now yesterday when I melted it I did not get all the way up to 185, it was closer to 175.

On my second candle that I poured without the USA and coconut oil, it was a Cotton Candy. I heated to 185, added FO and dye around 160 and then poured around 150. It was cooled on a wire wrack outside the oven. It had a pretty nice top, except for the circular (sp?) on the top. It was not mushy or frosty at all.

The temp in the house usually is about 74-75. Is that too cool??

I don't really want to have to do a second pour, that is why I choose to start working with the C3 because of its one pour claim.

I wonder if the oven is too warm when I put them in there to cool??

So I poured two candles today and was hoping to see some pretty tops when I opened the oven, WRONG!!

They look awful. The tops are all a tad mushy and frosted and down the sides. I had high hopes for these as I used 1/2 tablespoon pp of coconut oil as well as 1 tablespoon pp of USA for the first time.

I am using C3 Nature Wax, used FO Sweet Pea from LS and FO Apple & Clover from JBN w/ liquid dye from LS. Jars were washed and dried and warmed in oven. After poured they were cooled in the warm oven.

I am not sure why they came out like that. I thought the coconut and USA were suppose to help with tops and frosting. I had already melted my wax and then it had hardened again, I re-melted it again and then added the USA as I did not have it before when I first melted the wax. I don't think this caused any problems though because I did not use all of the wax and once it went back solid in the presto it was nice and smooth and firm, unlike what my candles turned out to be.

I am attaching a link to pictues of what my results. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated!

http://s219.photobucket.com/albums/cc198/ambernricketts1980/candle/?albumview=grid

Personally being in Texas, keeping it as Hillbilly Homebrew would work. Like someone said it depends on your area and I guess your personal preference.

Your thought of different jars with different names would work though. Who knows a lot of times people might think they are two totally different scents due to reading the names and thier brains expecting to smell something different. Hope that made sense.

I am double wicking using an ECO-6.

I made a candle using C3, it cured for at least a week, used 1 oz pp of mango papya FO from Lone Star. It smells really good cold but once I light it I can smell a fuel smell. I also used same wax, same amount of FO using LS German Chocolate Cake and I can smell a tad of fuel smell.

I used the search and found out that citrus smells have a fuel smell to them sometimes and that adding a vanilla FO will help. How much vanilla would I add to one pound of wax to help without overpowering the mango papaya?

Now on the German Chocolate cake should there be a fuel smell there? Maybe my nose is just really sensitive and can pick it up where someone else would think I was crazy?

Can a wick cause this? Maybe it needs to be wicked down? If this is not in the right place please let me know as well so I can correct it. TIA!!

I meant to update yesterday, or edit my message but could not figure out how to edit it.

Robert was sweet enough to have me call him, or him call me to help me out. It needs to be snug and for some reason my apothecary jars are just a tad too small for the large yet too large for the medium. Robert told me about the clear tube trick and I will be getting some of that this afternoon. I am sure that will work just perfect.

The tools look great and I can't wait to use them!! I am sure it will cut down on my wick fustrations

Is the wick centering tool suppose to be snug, like clip on top of the jar or is it suppose to just rest there? I just got my samples and the med is to small but the large is a wee too big, I feel like Goldylocks *laughs* The large can slide back and forth on the jar.

Maybe I have weird jars??

Don't hesitate sending Rob an email about any questions. He will let you know the exact ones that will work for you. He and Steph are wonderful people to work with, very helpful.

E-mailed him and yes they are great!

Neither. He's looking for the wick centering tool that holds the wick centered in the jar.

Not being picky or anything but he is a she *laughs*

the ez wick setter at lone star is pretty good. it has a warranty on it, and it you need it smaller or larger, you can send it to the manifactor and they can adjust it for you.

The ez wick setter was not what I was asking about but I do agree it is good, I also got mine from Lone Star.

That's not what he's asking for.

Rob was awesome, if you need some custom made, you can also send the container down and he'll work with you to get you the exact size and they have new little tabs on them so you don't have to use clips/clothespins. He's very helpful and very willing to help.

I agree.. They will make what you need and are very knowledgeable about the jar sizes you will need.

Make sure you get the new WCT for you jars... THEY ROCK!!!

Rob emailed me back and he sent out some samples yesterday. I should be getting them soon, I am only about 2 hours from them. Once I get the size right I will be ordering them. I will be getting the new ones, he told me about them. I can't wait to try them!! Rob was very helpful!

I sent Rob an email last night but have not got anything as of yet. I am hoping to get them ordered either today or tomorrow. I would think I will need the large, but could be wrong.

I am looking to get some of these and think the large is what will fit my jars but want to be sure. I have all three sizes of the following jars.

http://www.lonestarcandlesupply.com/apothecaryjars.html#Apoth%20Metal%20Lids

Where is the best place for the price to get them? I am looking for about 50. I will also be trying to get wick pins from the same place if possible.

TIA!!

Their liquid candle dyes are GREAT! HTH

I use many of their FOs, their USA and their liquid dyes. Good folks!

PS. Oh yeah, and CDN wicks!

I have a good amount of liquid dyes that I got from Lone Star so I am good there. I am def. getting some USA to try. What FO's do you suggest trying that are TDF from them??

I am going to be within 45 minutes of JBN this weekend. I have never purchased from them. What are you must haves from them?

I am going to be within 45 minutes of JBN this weekend. I have never ordered from them. I am just starting out. What is your must have from JBN? I am thinking since I am just starting out maybe I need to start finding some fall and Christmas type scents so I can start testing. Also if you have any other must haves that are not FO, let me know about those too!

I happened to glance up as we were going down the interstate last night and saw this company called The Melting Pot. Has anyone ever ordered from them? They do not sell the wax that I am starting out with but I thought maybe I could get FOs from them.

There link is http://www.meltingpotcandlesupplies.com/productcart/pc/viewCat_L.asp?idCategory=125

Any reviews would be great!

I am sure someone with more experience will post later but thought I throw my 2 cents in there.

My husband made me 2 presto pots and I must say he did a great job, woohoo! I did not want to spend that amount on them on E-bay.

First, if yours has the spigot make sure it is always in the OFF position so when your wax starts to melt, it does not end up in the floor.

I just put my wax over in the pot and just barely turn it on, about the W on the Warm and it will start to melt, then I just use the them. to keep a check on the temp.

Then if you have a spigot, open it up and pour, or if you don't you will just have to pick it up and pour it over into your pots.

Firefox won't let me open it??

I have no idea what Firefox is, so I don't know why it won't let you open it?? Can you open other people's Photobuckets?

Dont change yet....try a 3rd 4 hr burn first. That may catch up. I cant remember what wicks I used when I tested apothocary jars....I gave up...I HATE to double wick.. .

I think an ECO 8 would be too big though. You may need a wick between the ECO 6 and ECO 8....anyone have any ideas??

tootie

I am going to try another 4 hour burn tomorrow, don't have enough time tonight. Is there a size between the 6 and 8? I think it did much better though than the 10's.

I want to say thank you to everyone who took thier time to look at my first test burn on my first candle. Y'all gave excellent advice! Since I had ECO-6's, I used them for a second test burn, same candle. It most def. burned slower.

If you don't mind could you take a peak and tell me what you think? Think I need to go up to an 8?

http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z225/ambernricketts/Candles/?albumview=grid

I love the flip tops(point AWAY from your face when closing!) because the FO always dribbles down the side when I pour.

On my 1 lb bottles here....

Interchangeable

Peaks

Aztec

JS _ may or may not leak, same size threads but JS has a taller neck

Interchangeable

Bitter Creek

Berts ( just bought a dozen lids)

Lonestar

Satin, I went to Bert's site to see about getting lids and I must be totally blind because I don't see where to order them, can you point me in the right direction?

Like one of you said I was thinking it would help with waste and it dripping down the side of the bottle. I had that happen to me, dripping. I am also just starting out so I am just doing little amounts at a time.

Do you know if the ones from Peaks will fit the bottles from LS? If not some that will, where I can just buy the tops?