KevLuvAng03

Well I didnt have anything in the jar when I heated it up, it went in bare, as I usually put my tabbed wicks in when the wax has cooled a bit. As for the garbage in garbage out, yea.... the credit card is a big issue I have, (line of credit is too tight to purchase online currently, but ordering Peak's stuff will be my reward for paying it off) but as far as Yaley is concerned, I have had good success with the hot throw. As for supplies, its all Yaleys (as mentioned before as to why) and it was the glass wax that they have, and my thermometer was at about 150 Deg. when I added dye, I stirred approximately 3 min. then added scent at 140 then stirred, then poured at about 135. No Vybar was added. I guess its back to the drawing board as far as getting a good look to it, but I have heard from the person I gave it to ( a trusted co-worker) that the hot throw was off the charts better than Y...... and he was overly pleased with how far away he could smell it. Well I will print the instructions that you linked up for the container and try that with the next one I make. Never realized that adding dye last would be better to make sure everything is mixed in, when it is mixed in properly will it all look like regular melted wax or will it lok differently somehow? Thanks for the help. And to the last poster, no it wasnt over-heat that brought that appearance on, I think the container wasnt warm enough and I didnt really do it properly, but it adhered well. Kevin

Hey everyone, just a quickquestion. I would like some advice when pouring into a glass container. I just got done making one and instead of the finish of the candle beingcrisp, it looks like its funky (will attach pic) I heated the container in the microwave for about 2 minutes so it wasnt hot wax going to a cold container, so some help is needed, maybe too much F.O.? Not entirely sure, thanks for the help couldnt ind much in the help of the search function. Kevin

The wax is regular glass jar wax, and I heated the glass in the microwave for about a minute to ensure the color didnt do what it did but for some reason it still frosted or whatever its called (mottled?? maybe??) Well anyways, yea the most success I've had so far is the Yaley Crystallizing wax because its one pour. Not sure about why the color did that, any suggestions would help, all materials used in the making are Yaley brand (not much wiggle room with Credit Card to buy Peaks stuff which I would LOVE to do but just cant afford it) so Yaleys it is :undecided for now. Well any auggestions on why the wax would do that in a pre-heated jar let me know, I would love to get the regular smooth look, possibly too much liquid scent? I did see a speck or two on the outside of the candle on the jar wall that could be scent, and the adhersion to glass wasnt very well either, no idea whats going on there. Well thanks for any info you can give Kevin

It is a brown dyed cinnamon scented candle. It is 16 ounces in weight. Kevin

Thanks soapinthecity, I will have to check it out. I gave it to my co-worker and told him upon delivery that the paint will scratch off if scraped, and I cant guarantee that when the candle melts down and warms up, that it will stay on. I will def. check out the glass etching stuff, I was looking at it before but delayed on trying it, but if this idea takes, it'll be well worth it. If for some reason I start getting more orders whats the best way to make multiple colors and scents? I know it is off topic to this area but just asking what the best way to go about going from one color and scent to the next? I currently have the Presto Pot which I do everything in but if need be, I can probably buy another when I get enough $$ from it. Ideas welcome. Kevin

Ok guys here the other 3, let me know what you all think of it, i did the decorating by hand with stencil and a sharpie paint pen. Kevin

Hey everyone, extremely long time lurker but a little bit experienced candle maker. I just got done making one for a family friend and he wanted a Dachshund type theme to it, so after a few days of reading about hurricanes and stuff like that I decided to do someting different... I will let the pics speak for themselves Kevin P.S. Going to make a second post for the other 3 pics of it

Awesome, thank you very much, back to lurking again for now I guess

Hey guys, I do alot of searching on the boards just to get peoples thoughts and opinions and post once ina great moon. My last post I was writing about my Presto Pot and how it leaked, well I recently sanded off the non stick coating all around the outside, then plastered it with JB Weld. I waited about 8 hours that night filled it with water and cranked it to about 250 degrees with no leaks. I have not used it since, but I have purchased 2 pounds of gel wax. My main question is when I am done pouring the gel, will there be a repour? Stupid question I know but just want to know. Thanks

I did seal it on the outside and it peeled right off when I turned it on and wax dripped out. It peeled right off due to the teflon surface that may need to be sanded off possibly? I dont know, when I put it on, i put water in it and filled it halfway, then let it sit overnight and nothing, so I decided it was good to go, turned it on, melte the wax and poof, off it peeled. Let me know if you guys think sanding off the teflon or non slip coating will be beneficial. Thanks

Hey guys, I got a presto pot and did the mod on it. I havea small leak around the piece that goes into the pot and want to use jb weld, will i have to sand off the teflon finish?

Hey guys, I had some left over wax that I havent touched yet and some left over liquid scent from a candle I made and used a votivo mold to make it into a tart. I got it on the tart warmer right now and it smells great. For anyone that knows about the problems I have had, would anyone agree that it is a wicking issue? My mother smells it from downstairs in her tv room which is a good distance so maybe my problem is wicking? Thanks guys,

I just want a plain pillar with the wax melting leaving maybe a slight wall so it doesnt drip over the side. As for fragrance I love peach and apple, apple pie and types such as that. I just want a good scent throw so all the adviceI can get will be greatly appreciated. I believe wicking is my problem from the start (except for the dozen roses candle I made for the co-worker) but that candle was done with all Yaley product. Getting to the point of frustration, but feeling on the brink of getting the gist of making a good scent throw, just feel like I am missing an important factor or two in the grand scheme of things. Thanks Kevin

Hey everyone Im totally not giving up on candles but there is a quick backstory as to why Im writing this post. Last year I decided to make candles and bought a starter kit from Michaels that had 1 lb wax, the pouring pot, scent blocks and dye. Did as the instructions said to make votives and got no aroma. Not a problem, since I was a rookie its ok, decided to try a different scent block and bought it. I used the whole block for like a half pound of wax and got nothing (again making votives), came to the conclusion that scent blocks suck (Yaleys). So I decided why not try the liquid scent ad see if its any better and bought 2 ounces of Dozen Roses liquid scent (Yaleys). I made a triangular shaped candle (about 15 ounces in weight when solid) and used all of one bottle and almost all of the 2nd one. I decided to give it to a co-worker to try it out for scent throw and she said its great. Now in July my wife and I were in Hershey, Pa for our anniversary and saw a candle supply store on the way there and on the way home decided to stop. I got 2 ounces of Apple and 2 ounces of Peach FO. I made a pillar candle with the machine from Candle Creations and the mold stand at 7 inches high and when melted is about 14 ounces. I used about 1.5 ounces of FO to 15 ounces of wax and got no hot throw at all. This brings me to why I am posting now..... The mold I'm using is 7 inches tall and takes about 15 ounces of wax. I want to order everything I need from Peak's with some expertise from the masters at this site and from their personal experience what I need to do to make a good smelling candle, so here we go: 1- What type of wax is preferred for making pillar candles? 2- What type of wick is preferred for good melting? 3- What temp. is ideal to add in F.O so when burning the candle it has good scent throw? 4- Should I let the wx cool down alot after it is melted then add F.O, so when I light the candle the throw is good? That is all for now and if my questions dont cover everything I need to know please add whatever else I may need to know. I know test test test and read read and read some more, someday somehow I will get it good

Yea One at a time is ok for now, not really pushing it with the Presto Pot I have because I bought one, did everything the way it was supposed to be done and it was a little leaky around the outside of the threads so...... When the need to make more hits, then I will buy more molds or something, they have different types of molds for it so not too worried about that but who knows, maybe I can sand off the non stick of the teflon then JB Weld it???? Let me know Thanks

Hey everyone, just coming out of long time lurking for a rare post here and there that I am usually good for. Since I have been making candles ( about 8 months now) my wife found something by a company called nsi innovations called Candle Creations. It is basically like the Presto Pot except that I believe its easier to use, because the mold is under the pot and you just turn the swith (like the Presto) although the downside is if the base of the mold is too wide it wont fit, but for rookies like myself that want to start small its perfect. Here is a link http://www.nsiinnovations.com/innovat.candle.html I have used it with the polycarbonite mold and granulated paraffin wax it came with and used some Apple fragrance oil I have and made a candle. The cool thing with this mold and the molds that this company makes is the bottom of the mold is the top of the candle so its pretty cool that the repouring you do with this is done on the bottom of the candle so keeping fragrance strength in the last pour for evening it out can be minimal if any at all and can flatten the surface. I havent burned the candle yet but when I do I will post the results. If anyone else has used it let me know if you like it.... back to lurking Kevin:p

incorporate air as in stir slowly correct? To let the wax cool to 10 do you let it cool in Presto or pouring pot? If I cool it in thepouring pot, just let it sit there for a few min till it cools correct?

Cool, so I definately got way over enough so that wont be a problem. Another question I have is when I melt the 1 pound of wax and add the dye and FO, what can I mix the FO with? Will it be like mixing oil and water where it wont mix or is melted wax and FO different and that it will. What temp should I add the FO at?? Hopefully I can post tomorrow or monday and say I got it done, thanks.

Hey everyone, i know the Presto Kitchen Kettle is $20 but I would like to know how much for the fittings and stuff. I have a crescent wrench, just need to buy the 3/8" nipple, full-port ball valve, and the elbow. I have a power drill, crescent wrench, just need to purchase small drill bit (does size matter or just alot smaller than the 19/32??) a center punch, thread tap and teflon tape. I have saved up about $70 all togehter so just need to know for sure if its enough. One last question are all of these available at Home Depot or Lowes?

Thanks for the responses, I want to go to a presto pot even though Im still in my early days of candle making (just bought some Fragrance Oil from a candle supply shop in Pennsylvania called Colonial Candle Crafters) The major reason for the presto so early is because when I first started ( I stopped for a while because of frustration) I only wanted to make Votives till I get a better handle on things, but with the pot and thermometer that came with the kit, it doesnt reach down as far as I need it and next thing I know, the wax is melted but its like 190 because I cant keep the pot tipped to get the thermometer to get a heat reading from the wax. So with the Presto, I believe I can get a better reading with the thermometer and a more consistent heat source so I will probably always be within the needed temps. Thanks for the help, maybe I can do my own Presto and post a pic of it for you guys when its done. Another question, when I get it all setup and ested with water, then actually use it for melting wax, and everything is done, how do i clean the spicket out so it doesnt clog?

I was wondering if using a presto kettle pot, do you melt the wax in it directly then go to the pouring pot or put the pour pot into the presto? Or if you have the right accessories go from presto to mold? Thank You