Babean28

Hello Everyone!

I'm having problems with circular cracks and sinking with my soy container candles. I've tried every pour temp (in 5 degree intervals even). I've tried pre-heating jars, not pre-heating jars, room temp variations, etc. I haven't even added FO or dye yet and I can't get it to provide a smooth top! UGH!

I've decided that the only means to having a spectacular top is to do a re-pour...which I'm not against, but I don't know where to begin either. Before I give it a whirl, I thought I'd engage my CT family for advice and input. So bring it!

I do have some questions though...

1.) What temp should the wax be for a repour?

2.) I use a Presto Pot, but keep it free or dye and FO. What is the best way to save left over wax for a repour the next day? Or do I have to create a fresh batch for a repour?

3.) Is there a rule regarding how much wax you top off with or is it just enough to make the surface smooth?

4.) How long do I have to wait until I do a repour?

Thanks everyone - appreciate your input! Everyone is always so helpful!

-Faith :smiley2:

Thanks much. I'll check it out.

Hey Everyone,

I did a search on this FO throughout the forum and while there were a lot of posts about the FO dupe, I wasn't able to locate any threads which talked about the best FO dupe in soy wax. I currently use Ecosoya CB-135 and PB, and Cargill's C-3 and P-1.

So my question is this: For those who use soy wax and have tried this FO duplication, which FO supplier offers the best duplication for use in soy wax? I recently tried Wellington's dupe and it was lame. No throw whatsoever - I'm not surprised really. I only tried Wellington so I could form my own opinion and so far, it's not a favorable one! (sigh) Lessons learned!

Thanks,

Faith

How depressing . Hope our clients understand what seems to be our inevitable price hike. - That is for those of us who can hang in there.

Kathy

You are right - It is depressing

Especially for those who are new to soy candlemaking - not to mention all the small business owners.

I did a search online one day for the stuff that's in Febreze and the like, it was called something like Neutroleum Alpha, its most common use is in commercial skunk remover.. like what you would use if you got sprayed.. not to make skunks themselves disappear...

----

Libby

Now that's what I've been looking for - an explaination of WHAT exactly make it an "odor eliminator". I'll have to do some research on "Neutroleum Alpha" - never heard of it before. Thanks for the info! :smiley2:

Because he's a supplier. Blue names on here are suppliers.

Ah, well that explains alot - I just learned something new! Thanks for the tip! :smiley2:

Well I won't pretend to know everything. But I still think that if people panic and start running out to purchase larger than normal quantities that prices will increase because of this as well.

Okay, I'm fairly new to candlemaking and this message board, but I can't help but wonder why this person seems to know that prices WILL double. I mean, I have no inside info, and surely I can assume that prices COULD double. But it's when people start panicking and start racing out to purchase items that will drive cost up beyond the normal market value. A good example is gasoline. Two years ago Gasoline (in my neck of the woods) was $2.75/gal. There was word of the price per barrel going up and everyone panicked and decided to run out and fill up their gas tanks. The price of gasoline did go up, sure, but it went up higher than it normally would have because people panicked and raced out to get it before prices increased, not knowing that their doing this would inevitably increase prices higher and beyond what the normal increase would have been.

Essentially what I'm saying, and at the risk of upsetting people on this board, is that demand is part of the problem - there is "realistic demand" and "unrealistic demand"...and if we all start panicking and begin ordering soy in vast quantities, larger than the market is accustomed to, sure the prices will double.

Just my two cents. I'll get off my soapbox now...

http://bertsheavenscent.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41

You know you have a wax, glass, wicks, and fo supplier in NH right? You can pick up orders and save on shipping if you live close enough. http://www.thenaturalartisan.com/default.asp

Thanks for the link to Berts. I'll check it out.

I did know about the natural artisan, but they don't have the wax, wicks, or jars I use. Beyond that, I haven't found a significant cost savings on their FO for the scents I'm looking for.

Oh well! (sigh) :undecided

Thanks everyone for the help!

I just got a sample from CS and it has a hint of spice to it. I thought it would have been more clean smelling (not that it's a bad thing by any means!). I have yet to try it in wax though.

So you didn't find that the sample from CS smelled like bubble gum out of the bottle? I was so surprised by the scent which is what prompted me to place this thread on here.

If you place it in wax, be sure to let me know how it works out for you. I'm going to wait on it for a little while myself - I have too many other delicious scents to test out right now!

What kind of wax do you use?

I mentioned this a few times now in here. I used Bert's Clean Cotton in a candle and that thing cleaned the air so well it amazed me. The scent even ligered much longer after I blew it out. If you're cooking something like cabbage, that scent seems to take care of those smells pretty well. I'd guess it's just the scent that does it so you might have the same results with any brand clean cotton, but the one I used was Bert's.

Hi Vio,

Do you have a link to where you found the clean cotton? I've never heard of "Bert's" before, but I'm also somewhat of a newbie. Thanks!

I use Ecosoya Pillar Blend (PB) for my tarts and I love it. The only negative is the hefty price tag right now.

I get my soywax from www.candlescience.com

There's also a sticky at the top of this forum with information on which soys people use, etc. Check it out.

I've heard that citrus is the best odor eliminator, but the two samples I ordered for odor eliminators both smelled like bubble gum to me (OOB) anyway...I haven't tried them in the wax yet.

Does anyone have any recommendations on odor eliminators they have used and marketed as such? Don't be shy!

Hey Everyone,

What makes a fragrance oil eliminate pet or smoke odors? Or better yet, what scents and FOs are proven for this? Thanks.

Just scents spiced muffins is similar and there was something from natures garden that was really close. It had nothing to do with a muffin or morning but I know it smelled like Yankee's Good morning. Now I am going to drive myself crazy looking for the bottle.:undecided I will get back to you on it when I find it.

Oh, yes, please do let me know if you find the name of that FO from Natures Garden. I'm so eager to find a similar scent. I wonder how I could put a request in with some suppliers to see if they can add this to their list...

Here's the Heinz website, where Stabilo (formerly CD) and Stabilo KST (formerly CDN) are manufactured.

http://www.heinzverhaegh.com/

The following companies both have great info on many kinds of wicks, but sell in large quantities.

http://www.wickit.net/index.html

http://www.wicksunlimited.com/candle_wicks.php

I get mine from JBN, but other suppliers have them also. They are not as easy to find as are CDs. HTH:)

Thanks, Stella! As always, a wealth of information!

I use liquid dyes from thecandlemakersstore.com they are wonderful!!! They don't have any smell and never clog my wicks when using them in containers.

I highly recommend them, plus you won't use near as much color with the liquid and you can measure for exact color each bath!

BLESSINGS

Thanks for the input on liquid dyes. I was actually starting to dig around for liquid versus using the dye chips. I'll definitely check out the link you provided. :smiley2:

If ya like CDs, you'll love CDNs.

Hi Stella, tell me more about the CDNs...where do you get them? I take it that you use them with success.

Thanks for the info on the CD Wicks - I'm going to order a sample pack and give them a whirl. Will let everyone know my thoughts after I test.

Everyone has been very helpful - thanks so much.

I've used CB135 since starting back. I do get some wet spots, never had shrinkage. I think they bother me more that anyone. I get great h/c throw w/CD wicks. I've used Eco wicks and the throw is really good, but most of the time w/the mushrooming, they're torches if I want a decent MP.

Kathy

Kathy, am curious to know which CD wicks you've been using and for which containers. I've been using LX wicks based on CS.com's recommendation in the wicking guide. I'm getting mediocre HT and the wicks are mushrooming like crazy - hence I'm also getting torches after over 2 hours of burn time. They aren't creating a full melt pool for me either!

Would love to learn more...thanks.

...and warm/cool environments. The glass expands & contracts at a different rate from the wax...

I didn't really think about the fact that glass expands and contracts, but that makes sense. This whole time I thought only the wax would expand and contract.

I'm trying to not get frustrated but it's been difficult not to when I keep getting different results in the same batch.

As an FYI to all those who've posted on this thread, I decided to go back to the basics and only use a wick and the CB-135 and follow NGI's instructions on their website. The wax still isn't performing normally. I'm going to try going up and down in pour temp to see if that makes a difference.

I put my wax in a plastic container to weigh it before adding it to the presto post. My question is.... okay it may sound stupid, anyway I need to add the weight of the container I am weighing my wax in to the total weight correct? Another words if my container weighs let's say 8.4 oz and I want a lb of wax then the scale should say 1 8.4oz. correct?

Kelsey

No worries - I'm asking what I think are stupid questions every day myself! I'm new to this too! But to answer your question, you have it correct. If your container weighs 5 ounces, and you add 16 ounces of wax to it, you will have 1 lb. and 5 ounces on the scale...or 21 ounces. I use a scale with a tare button - so this helps to do the math for me.

-Faith

I use it and get great glass adhesion with great hot and cold throw.

Well then, any chance you'd be willing to share your secrets here?

I've tried all sorts of methods. But, what's confusing me is that for the same batch, same jar, same temp, same everything, I get different results.

Here are some questions I have.

1.) What is the room temp when you're making candles?

2.) What is your pour temp?

3.) Do you heat your containers?

4.) Do you wash your containers?

5.) What % of FO are you using pp?

6.) What is the temp of the room where you let your candels set up?

Am eager to learn your secrets!

Thanks for the response!

I've already been to their site and done all the reading. I haven't asked them a question though...I'll do that

Do you use CB-135? I'm hoping to get some feedback from other users on what their experience has been.

Thanks!

Okay, at the risk of sounding stupid, what is the ultimate goal with this wax?

- Is it to have it adhere to the glass container perfectly?

OR

- Is it to have it shrink entirely away from the glass?

I ask because I'm clearly confused by this. I've been testing CB-135 for a while now and I can pour two 8 oz jars at the same time and get completely different results. One jar, great glass adhesion whereas the second has shrinkage, and/or wet spots.

Looking forward to know what people think...

Thanks,

Faith