UrbanFool

Thank you very much for this! I got busy and didn't have a chance to respond back... didn't want you to think I'm an ingrate.

Thanks again!

Kelly

Well, this one's been burning for a few days with a medium flat braid cotton wick. It's not a test, it's just cuz I keep a candle lit when I make jewelry for lighting the torch. If I don't move it around, it doesn't drip but burns itself off cleanly.

(This wick needs to be trimmed, but I'm lazy. It's been going about 3 hours so far this morning. It spilled when I carried it over to the photo table.)

Y'know, my nose isn't the greatest, but I would say that yes it does.

I just got a sample from Aroma Haven, called ClothesPins and I really like it. I also get tired of the clean cotton smells.

Well, I use no mold release at all, but the molds are clean. The first thing I checked was to make sure there were no crusties left over in the corners of the mould after dumping the candle out.

I've heard it's a poor choice, but I use Yaley's premium (I live across town from Yaley'), and add Stearix, Vybar, and UV.

One of these days I'll get brave enough to add some soy, but not until I've mastered this corner thing and can make perfect black candles.

Thanks!

Kelly

It is infinitely worse I think to get a perfect candle, and not really be sure what you did to it because you remelted and added to it so many times.

I used the CandleChem black TOMurray suggested in my other black complaint thread (took 20 drops), but then after the 3rd remelt ended up adding a black diamond chip (I have no idea if that makes any difference) and it really may have enough Vybar 103 to sink a ship. I'm pouring at 200* with warmed molds.

My usual cotton wicks aren't working for this. Although they don't smoke in general, once they're in the tall glass container, the glass turns black as pitch. It's also impossible to trim the wick (which is a portion of the blackening problem.) I haven't seen a wick specifically for this purpose.

Also, aside from beeswax, are there additives I can add to make the candles longer burning? I tried using a normal 2x6.5" in an empty container, and it's not really doing the trick. Or, is it just that the wax has to be poured directly into the container as opposed to an insert?

Anyone know?

Thanks,

Kelly

Well, the 200* isn't doing it. I've made several solid candles today, all with the same problem. I'm beginning to wonder how in the world I got such clean candles earlier. Is it possible the 200* is too high?

I think I was pouring at 175* before.

Kelly

Okay, well I use magnets to hold the wicks on my pillars, so those are magnetic. So they're tin I guess. Thing is, I never expected any more shine than usual in my candles, so was happily shocked at the high gloss this time, and wanted to make sure of what it was that did it.

I'm using Yaley's Premium wax (which is a change from Superior) with UV, Stearix and Vybar, but I'm testing black candles (AGAIN), and I poured some votives and put them in the fridge and they're shinier than I've ever seen. Those are the Octagonal votives (not sure what they're made of, but it's different than the round votives.) When I pour my actual candles, they'll be in a round 2 x 6.5" metal mold (is that tin? They're magnetic, and I thought tin wasn't magnetic.)

Wow. Could that be more convoluted? At least there are a couple of periods and commas in it.

Thanks!

Kelly

I'm wondering what makes the shiniest candles? Something is eluding me here.

Kelly

Scented, is that just for votives or also for pillars?

Today I just got my gazillion wick pins, so this will be my first use of them. Also my LX-12 pre-tabbed wicks for soy votives, so I gotta lot of new things happening this weekend.

Kelly

To be real honest, I buy spools of cotton wicking, and I don't prime them. I've seen people do it, and I know how to do it, but hopefully someone can explain the necessity of it. (I get the idea of priming the wick) but it hasn't seemed to affect my candle burns.

I figure once my wick is tied into place, and I've poured my wax, it basically primes the wick right there, except for the short part that you burn. And that is pretty much primed anyway from the bit of wax that seeps out of the wick hole.

The mold is 2" across. My additives are from Cierra Candles and carry their label, so I'm not sure of their origin. The molds carry either the Yaley's label or the Cierra label, but I'm fairly certain that they're all moldman.com molds (although I can't swear to that.)

It's frustrating because I'm dealing with the crunchiness on one hand, but then am dealing with the color graduation on the other. Hopefully they're mutually exclusive.

The first pour (white) is about 3 inches. Then I add the dyes to the remains of the 1 1/2 pound of wax to pour. I'm currently noting my times to get exactly what I want. This was 5 minutes and not enough, and 10 minutes is too many, so today's pours are going to be 7 minutes and I'll go from there.

On these blue candles, the first pour was 190 (which is my norm) and after 5 minutes, the wax had cooled to 175 and I poured over the 3 inches of wax in the mold.

It's a Cierra Candles mold, but yesterday I bought 2 more from Yaley's, and if I'm not incorrect, there is a master moldmaker (www.moldman.com) and those are made here too, and I'd bet my next paycheck that all of these molds are made by moldman.com

Also, I've haven't had this problem with this mold before. It's a 2x6.5. I finally decide to make a farking normal candle and end up with all these problems.

Kelly

One thing I'd like to add about picking up wax rather than having it delivered, our nearest place (aside from Yaley) is in Sacramento which would be about 5 hours round trip. Usually no prob --we've often done it just for fun.

My mom figured it out (she has the best car for road trips --ours has over 200,000 miles) and we realized it would cost $70 to go to Sac and pick up wax. So we'd better be taking advantage of Sacs, the bead shops, and whatever else we can take advantage of while we're at it, because it is NOT a money saver.

Right now, I'm buying high quality additives and sticking with Yaley's wax.

I'm at my wit's end! This is my first time trying to attach a file, so I hope it works. Basically, the corners are crunchy but the rest of the candle is smooth and perfect. It's only on the top. I might attribute this to a dirty mold, but my molds are clean and this happened on two different molds.

I've gone through my "problem/solution" files, and can't figure this one out.

The color change is MY doing... it's not part of the problem. I'm not trying to get a solid color.

There is no fragrance in the candle (something I very often forget and it ticks me off!)

Has anyone attempted to use any of the metaphysical oil blends in candles? I'm fairly certain they aren't EO's, and have no idea of the quality of FO they are. I was just wondering if anyone's tried.

Thanks!

Kelly

I am SO lucky to have a husband who loves doing the grunt work.

Those are just awesome... how big are they, anyway?

Wait.... my husband hasn't made the mold, but he's made a 7-part candle of wood FOR a mold.

And I'd be happy to send it to someone to make me a couple molds for a decent price.

I want the seven-part candle. (It's called... a spool candle?) My husband has made a great mold, but I don't have the patience and all to make a damn mold.

Pourette has been a mystery for several months now - the two month time line has never changed in two months. Who knows if/when they will ever be back in business. They haven't exactly been communicating w/customers which they've had for years.

OH!

I can't speak to that. I found what I wanted and then counted on what the page said. In that case, can I find someone on this board to make me a mold or two out of a wood form? With no rights to sell it to others.

Kelly

Well, I don't do grubby or electric candles. Can anyone suggest another mold maker in my line? They look great though!

Kelly