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Scentedmoon

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Posts posted by Scentedmoon

  1. Hello Everyone!

    I'm usually a lurker on this forum...but I have been wanting to make some tealights and wasn't sure if the wax that I have would be compatible. I know from reading this board that people usually mix votive wax with a container wax to make tealights. My question is can you mix a soywax with veggie wax, and get a decent tealight?

    The wax I would like to mix are Cargill Votive Soy wax with Astorlite 223 Container Wax.

    Has anyone mixed these two waxes before? If not, would you suggest it?

    The Cargill has a melting pt of 134-140 F and the Astorlite has a melting pt of 124 F.

    Should I go for it? What do you'all think???

  2. Those are beautiful! But, I was wondering, I am new to the candle business and was thinking of using champagne glasses. I just want to know how costly is the glasses and is it worth it in the end. Looking at the wholesale prices of glasses, It just doesn't look like it is cost effective. And where can I find a places that sale wholesale items like champagne glasses?

    I saw those same glasses at walmart...4 for $3.97 or something close to that!

  3. Hello Everyone!

    First of all, it's been a while since I read this board, its nice to be back!

    Secondly, I have a problem and I need some help....

    I moved earlier this year and I lost my notebook where I kept my wax information, so I have been struggling to collect this information again. So far, I have been somewhat successful.

    I'm missing the working/pouring temptures for Astorlite Q, PQ, and F waxes. And I have looked everywhere on the web, and can't seem to find any information that I need. (And yes, I am aware they do not make these waxes anymore, thus the reason I haven't been so successful in finding the information that I need.)

    So , I was hoping that someone might have this information written down and would be kind enough to share it with me. I just need to working/pouring temptures for each wax.

    And also, does anyone know if you can make pillar candles from the F wax? Isn't F usually used for voltives?

    Thanks santa big

    ~Scentedmoon~

  4. These were done with IGI 1343 using stearic and vybar 343 for increased fo retention..scented with *Apples and Maple Bourbon* at 6%

    eta: pic 2 - same candles from a little different angle

    I love the colors! Is the scent your own creation as well? Sounds yummy!

  5. Here ya go. Get yourself apiece of angle iron, 3 x 3 x 6 inches long. Take a pot or frypan, put a folded paper towel on the bottom (to soak up wax) put on burner on stove. Hold the angle iron steady and place the candle on the towel against the angle iron (sometimes I rotat it slowly) if your stove is relatively level, you can level a candle in seconds. Good luck, make sure your angle iron is cut square of course. I picked mine up at a welding shop (cost me $5.00)

    Hey Tucker! Can you post a pic, so I know what I need to ask the sales person for or would they know what I'm talking about? Where else could I go to get this contraption? And of course I'm stumped on how such a contraption could help level a pillar candle....thanks!santa roll

  6. Are you using stearic? I've seen a post on here a long, long time ago (I think by Alan) who tested different percentages of stearic and showed a candle made by each percentage. I used 3% stearic for even mottling - I think above or below that might give you uneven, if that's what you want. Maybe someone else remembers the thread...

    Of course, if you want solid, there's always vybar...

    HTH

    Okay I suppose I'm math illiterate tonight, but what does 3% come out to in tbs per pound? Or on a scale? (Did I mention how much I hate math?):rolleyes2

  7. I was having problems with pin holes in my votives and some pillars, and topofmurrayhill advised me to clean my molds by spraying generously with wd40, let sit for a minute, then wipe out, them spray generously with mold release or PAM, let sit for a minute, then wipe out. Ever since then, I havent had any problems with pinholes. You might want to try that, because the pouring different temps did nothing to help me with my problem. So good luck! :wink2:

  8. For some reason nobody ever believes me when I advise this...

    Spray a generous coat of WD-40 in those cups, let it sit for a minute, and wipe them out squeaky clean with paper towels. Then give them a good coat of mold release, let it sit for a minute, and wipe that out too until there's no visible trace of it.

    Then go pour some votives (without pillar wax!) at 175 and report back on the results.

    Your an absolute genius! It worked like a charm. Not only on my votives but my pillars as well. Thanks so much for sharing! Your the MAN or WOMAN! :wink2:

  9. For some reason nobody ever believes me when I advise this...

    Spray a generous coat of WD-40 in those cups, let it sit for a minute, and wipe them out squeaky clean with paper towels. Then give them a good coat of mold release, let it sit for a minute, and wipe that out too until there's no visible trace of it.

    Then go pour some votives (without pillar wax!) at 175 and report back on the results.

    Hey! I'm totally gamed for anything! I use PAM for mold release, will that be a problem? And thanks for the tip! I'll let you know of my results....

  10. Actually, I have been having problems with this wax. I keep getting pin holes (sides only) in my finished votives. I have tried pouring at 175, 170, 165, and 160, and I'm still getting them, although there are less pin-holes. Anyone else have the same problem? And oh- I have also added a few ounces of pillar wax, that sorta helps.

    Does anyone know I how I can fix this? (I don't heat my molds) Is this typical for this wax? People keep saying I'm pouring to fast, but I swear I have tried pouring them slower. Would anyone mind describing how you would go about pouring your votives slower?

    Anything suggestions would really help. Thanxs. :)

  11. I love using the candle making techniques page. www.candletech.com

    Can anyone tell me who might be in charge of updating this page? I would love to put in a request to have more techniques added....like mottle candles, crackling, and the swirl techniques.

    Can someone pass this request to the person in charge? I'm sure they are very busy bees, but it would be a nice thing to have when they have a chance to work on it.

    And I think I'm not alone in this request or maybe I am? :)

  12. I'm still new to candlemaking, but I hope my answers will help you.

    1. Preblended wax: Paraffin wax with additives added.

    Such Additives are vybar, universal additive, and stearic acid.

    Vybar is a wax additive used to eliminate bubbles, prevent mottling, increase opacity, and enhance frangrance-oil capacity of wax.

    Universal Additive inhibits mottling, wax hardness, prevents bubbles, increases opacity, minimizes the occurance of surface pits in molded candles.

    Stearic Acid increases the hardness and opacity of wax.

    Check out Peaks page on additives for recommendational use:

    http://www.peakcandle.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PCMS&Category_Code=ADT

    2. You can make candles with paraffin only, but if you want to have a good fragrance load, then you will need to add vybar. And another good additive is UV inhibitor, this is used to prevent the fading of colors due to ultraviolet light exposure. Again check out Peak's additive page.

    3. Yes you can make pillar candles with Veg wax and soy wax. Please check Peak's page on waxes:

    http://www.peakcandle.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PCMS&Category_Code=WAX

    And I know some veg waxes can result in getting crystalized texture effect, but I haven't really played with them to be able to tell you more.

    4. "Clogging the wick" is caused by using to much dye, which can cause the candle to not burn. But if you follow the directions from most suppliers then you should be fine, and I would recommend peak for a great dye supplier.

    I heard you can use crayons, but I wouldn't recommend it, again by using them you have an increase chance of clogging the wick. And if the wick does not burn, then you can't enjoy the candle.

    I hope this helps you. You should also check out Peak's instructions page:

    http://www.peakcandle.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PCMS&Category_Code=INSTR

    I've got all the above information definitions from Peak's web pages. I just hope Alan won't mind me using his definitions to help you out.

    Also, you should read all the boards on this page to help you with your candlemaking:

    http://www.candletech.com/forums/

    Just remember, enjoy and have fun! :)

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