Molly

I've tried the remelting and adding yellow thing, if they're like mine they'll look good for a couple days and then turn a pretty light tan color.

Good luck!! Let us know how it works out.

You poor thing! You deserve hugs and cookies or something like that. It's funny, we've a couple ladies here that got sick from FO when pregnant, but most of them haven't, or maybe just one or two like you. Guess it varies from person to person.

I either use wire whisks or else lengths of wire coat hanger that I've bent a loop into on the end that goes into the pot.

I'm not Candleman, but I know, I know!! *bounces up and down and waves hand* You crimped it too hard. There's a very fine line between getting it crimped enough and crimping it so much that the tab bends. Trust me, I know this one by heart!

Candleman.. When I used the straight edges ones, the wick tab bent just enough to not lay flat on thebottom of the glass. What in the heck did I do wrong?

And Mystical.. That's what I was talkin about! "Answer with care" my butt!

We let the wax get hotter than that, anywhere from 210-220 f., and do not heat up the pouring pots. If needed we will put the pouring pot in a pot of boiling water on a burner to get it hotter again after blending.

*edit* if you do this though, and are keeping the wax for several days make sure you turn it down lower for overnight or when you aren't using it.

I've never had it affect the wicking/burn either.

Star shaped floating candles in a cute bag tied with a ribbon or raffia. One red, one white, one blue

The biggest difference as far as candlemaking goes is that a very low melt point wax will NOT work for a pillar candle as it will fall apart when you burn it.

You _can_ use a high melt point wax for a container candle, but you probably won't get as good a burn OR as good a scent throw as you would with a lower melt point wax. A rule of thumb which doesn't always work totally perfectly, would be that the higher the meltpoint, the harder the wax, but that's a generalization.

Even if you don't see anything on the web page, try e-mailing them. They're super nice!

Try www.waxmelters.com Sometimes they have used ones.

Usually that's caused by too much vybar!

I was going to say try fixing it with some JB Weld, but I see Bruce beat me to it!! If your hubby is reasonably handy, he can do it, it's no different than using epoxy glue really. I've used this on regular wax melters that were leaking water out, works great!

I'm curious as to what should I add to a pillar blend to knock the meltpoint low enough to use it in containers. I buy candlewic's 4045h in 50 lbs cases, so I have plenty to experiement with.

You could try adding mineral oil, but I'm not sure with the wax that you have that it would work very nicely. Try adding about 5% of your wax weight and then scent the weight of both the wax AND the oil since the oil becomes part of the wax. But again, I'm not totally sure if this will work with your wax.

If it's just a thin film, rubbing alchohol works pretty darn well!

Doh! Wished I would of seen that this weekend. Ran out of Black and coudln't come up with a good solution. Had a lady at the Craft Store tell me that no one uses black in candles. I had to laugh at her. Couldn't help it. Went to ten different Craft stores in the seattle area and not a one stocked black. I can't remember making a black candle, but I sure do use a lot of it to deepen other colors. Of course this was the weekend my wife wanted to make some marbled black & gray saturns. Spent hours lurking on line for a color mixing chart and couldn't find one and it was here the whole time.

If you're looking for black powdered dye or dye chips in Seattle, I've never known Pourette to be out of those. I don't know where liquid dye is to be found around here though. Poruette is in Ballard.

I've used it before, it's really really spendy, and it's also very brittle and hard to work with.

Yay! Nothing better than new stuff to play with, no matter what time of year it is!

silicone mold release might work a tiny bit better than the PAM does, but don't know if it would be enough to be of real help.

I only use square braid cotton for pillars, but I can tell you right off, with it being 4" diameter it's going to need a largish wick. Um, if I were going to guess what tabbed wick I use to try I'd probably first try my 44-36-18 and if that didn't work, go up to a 60-44-18. But I use paper core tabbed wick for containers and I honestly don't know how these compare to a zinc or cotton core wick which I believe are both more commonly used than paper core.

I have 2 scents that I have to heat, and another scent that has to be SHAKEN and then heated.... those are exceptions though, I've got over 70 scents total and those are the only 3 like that.

Yay!!! That's such a cool feeling!

A nice Mint or a Lemon Mint mixture is also nice for spa stuff.

You just have to be careful what you put in there. If it's metal, make sure any paint on it doesn't burn. I've done ones with pretty marbles and little glass ornaments in them before. I've done some with metal (not real silver charms), but had to try two types because the first one had the paint that caught on fire when it was directly in the flame.

Are you meaning that after you've poured them but before you've burned them they sort of sink down in the middle around the wick? If that's what you mean you probably need to pour the candle, poke a couple small holes on either side of the wick once it's set up and then when it's still warmish pour one more small amount to fill up the holes and give you a hopefully smooth level top.