heidijo

Did they say where they were made, i.e. China?

Try cooling them slower by covering them with a cardboard box and see if that helps.

If you don't mind it.... adding lard whitens mine.

It is the metal at the bottom of the wick that goes at the bottom of the candle. Called many names: wick tab, sustainer base, assembly or clip. They make them for votives and jars, too. Here's what they look like: www.wicksunlimited.com/wick_clips.php

HTH

Bought some but never tried as my experience with putting wicks in is that the wick can lean to one side or the other.

I give my votive cups and wick pin assemblies a shot of silicone spray before pouring to eliminate sticking. I noticed that the sticking is worse on the older wick pins where the finish is turning color.

love, love, love them!

I use Accusoy24 or C-3/V-1 and use LX-16 successfully.

Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences!

I'm starting to wrap some V1/C3 and Accu-soy 24 votive candles that I've had stored for about a year. Some of the candles have developed a moderate bloom, or frosting, on them and I'm wondering if anyone has discovered a method to remove it. Of course, this is just for aesthetic purposes. Any success stories? Thanks!

Very nice, I didn't know M&P could swirl so much! And the little pumpkins are so cute with their yellow eyes!

I haven't had too much luck with the wickguide, usually have to wick up so also I buy the next size or two. Can't go wrong with Candlescience's 99 cent sale!

What is a tureen? Metal? May just be holding the heat if it is?!?

Very nice! Did you use a pattern or just wing it?

Stupid question, but what is an INCI name?

Gorgeous!!!

MiniB, nice votives, love the colors! I too fill my votive molds with the chunkies all the way to the top and then, pour the wax.

Dee, I also use V-1 but always use ratio of 3 oz. of C-3 to 3 oz. V-1 and never have any cracks. Wicking... I always have to use much larger wicks than recommended for soy. My standard for V-1 and C-3 votives isLX-16.

Thanks Meredith!

I would have never guessed this was a result of overheating, felt sure it had to do with not bringing it to a full trace. I can search the issue now that you have both helped me identify what it is.

I too was very hesitant about the crayons, but the Millersoap.com website didn't seem to portray it as a bad thing except for the coloring not being strong enough. I'm unemployed now and am definitely putting soap colorants on my Xmas list if anyone asks:)

I like the CB Advanced qualities, nice smooth pour though the C-3 has better throw for me than the CB Advanced.

Thanks Scrochet!

After 10 hours, a little more liquid absorbed and the blue crayon coloring magically appeared....

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/nippera/IMG_1311.jpg

Can you or anyone explain what physically happens with the lye water and fats at trace that makes it so critical?

To rebatch, just chunk, melt on stovetop, and repour?

My fourth batch of OHP soap and the first learning-by-mistake. This coconut, palm, canola, and castor oil batch suffered from the onset. First, the lye wasn't very well dissolved (did without my glasses-mistake), then I hand stirred for close to an hour so I could pick out 6 to 7 very small pieces of lye crystals, and put in oven slightly before trace. Cooked at 175 degrees for an hour and all I got was separation, so got the stick blender out and mixed until creamy. Cooked another 15 minutes before having to move to mold and wrap with towels (needed oven to make dinner). Checked it an hour later and while bottom is getting hard, a layer of oil is on top and this is what it looks like. Thanks for all pointers!

1) What is this strange mess and which error caused it?

2) Can it be saved?

3) What happens at trace that makes it crucial to the process?

Great job and your soaps look very nice!

Would silicone candle release spray work, or vaseline?

Found the old post on Miller website and it was Vo-Pop. No mention of a buttery smell:cheesy2: The price has gone up $8 dollars though, not sure when the original price ($25) was posted.

I found the Rooto lye crystals at a local Ace hardware store. No, I haven't made my first batch yet, but seems like it's all I can think about these days (was laid off last month and jobs in my field are not to be found). So have the time and need to read up and compare prices on equipment and materials. Can't seem to get a crockpot at any of the thrift stores, so Big Lot is the best price so far. May try a 1 lb. batch in the next day or so in the oven before purchasing crockpot, but not sure whether I want to give up my ss stock pot to soaping:cheesy2:

I have olive pomace and castor oils so far, and hope to buy 1 gal of coconut oil tomorrow on 20% off day for $20. Though saw a 25-lb container of Vo-Pop popcorn oil for $35 that had coconut oil, artificial butter flavor, and color added with beta carotene. I think I read on the Miller Soaping site that people use this, get lovely yellow color, but not sure if everything is going to smell like butter. Anyone ever use butter flavored coconut oil?

Beautiful!!!