Beli

was this it?

http://www.scottcrewcandlesupply.com/store/agora.cgi?page=Projects/PieCandle.html&hdr=projects

Cool. Glad the tequinque worked for you.. I may have to try this this weekend when I have more time and see what I can come up with.. I'll post the results if I do.

For cantainers try pooring at different temps.. when the first layer still has a thin skin etc.

this is how I do it

maybe this video might help give you ideas

http://www.ehow.com/video_12221944_marble-colored-candles.html

Obviously you don't want to use crayons to color your candle.

I'd be requesting some of my shipping money back... Amazon uses Endicia sometimes, and I can always track the package via Amazon, but I've never had it take 9 days for it to get to me. If I"m paying something to be sent via USPS Priority mail, that's what I expect it to be shipped by.

Right.. I think they are(CSN's).. but I have to do some double checking, however Eco candles are available Bittercreek (they might have them in their TX store.. I know they have different sizes here in their WI store)

I believe Candlewic also sells them as well(Eco's) As well as 464 I think, those are the two that I know, I'm sure there's a couple more but the names are escaping me at the moment. However, Candlewic is in Pa.

Have you tried CSN"s? According to CS wick guide(Course this is just a guide):

Golden Brands 464/3.5-4 Inch Diameter

Best: CSN 262nd Best: ECO 16Acceptable: LX-30

Golden Brands 464/4+ Inch Diameter

Best: ECO 10 Double Wicked2nd Best: LX-22 Double WickedAcceptable: CSN 14 Double Wicked

Never heard of a wax that's both for pillars and containers.. not that it doesn't exist just never heard of one. How does the wax feel? Usually veggie wax is softer then pillar wax.

You need a wax specific for container candles. Palm Feather pillar wax isn't. It's a much harder wax then container wax. Anyone who tells you that you can use Pillar wax for container candles I would not purchase from again. Container wax is softer generally speaking. However your palm pillar wax isn't useless you can make tarts out of them and use up the wax that way.

If you want to stick with palm than I suggest purchasing Glass Glow Palm wax. It's specifically made for containers and is a palm wax.

Here's what you need to make sure your wicks are centered. It is the EZ Wick Setter. http://www.candlescience.com/equipment/ez-wick-setter-single/

Also make sure your glass is squeaky clean. Glass right from the factory usually has a residue on it that may prevent the wick stick-ums or hot glue to stick. I use hot glue with a high temp glue gun and high temp glue sticks. They are stuck instantly and a bugger to remove. If any of the glue drips on you, you have a blister!

I'm curious where you get your FO's from that you can use only 3% and get a good HT? Mind saying?? Thanks

Reputable suppliers, AHE, NG, Peaks etc (are my main suppliers) I do add beeswax to my candles with 464, and noticed that it does help. I only use about a tablespoon per lb of wax. I do not call them Vegan candles tho due to the added beeswax. If I up the FO anymore then that I end up getting seepage when burning like I said. I've already tried the centering tool.. wick pins err not wick pins.. wick holders sorry something similar to this Bitter creek had them years ago when I first started. http://www.peakcandle.com/products/Wick-Holder-Bars__A1023.aspx.

However, I've also been using these lately http://www.peakcandle.com/products/SmallMedium-Wick-Centering-Tool__A1033.aspx. These work better for me then the centering tool to keep the wicks straight once in the jar. I'm using the right wick for the wax. I've tried CDN's, CD's and Eco's even according to CS wick guide Eco works better in 464, but no matter how much I up the FO load I get seepage even with the addition of beeswax, CO or Stearic. The hot throw is great.. it's cold throw that's a bit weak.

Maybe next candle I make tonight/tomorrow will be with that to see if that helps with the centering on the bottom with the stickums. Like I said last time I tried them years ago, it came off when I poured.. could be I poured too hot.. it's been years since I tried it (Till earlier this afternoon)will have to try and find my notes. The reasons you mentioned are one of the reasons I won't use glue guns... I've tried that too in the past and yes, you will get a blister if it gets on your skin and can't get it off your glassware.

If you would like to test one of my candles I can send ya one I'm not that way.. i'm always looking for a way to improve em

How can the wax secure the wick when you are burning wax?? The wax melts and wicks float. Very dangerous.

OR maybe I am misunderstanding your post ???

So please tell me what happens to your wicks when you candle gets to the bottom of your jar? How do they stay secured?

I am curios as to what wax you currently can use .5oz of FO with??

Nothing happens to them they don't move etc, it stays in place. As far as Wax it's 464 .5oz per lb of wax is a little over 3% well within the safety limits for that wax as I've previously said. I did try stickums again(just a bit ago), but the bottom looks uncentered to me, but at least this time the wick stayed in place.

I hoping I've misunderstood, but you surely are securing the wick with something if not with hot glue, I hope. Please say yes! If not you are creating a huge fire hazard. An unsecured wick, (to be clear, I'm talking about an unsecured wick to the bottom of the container) will float around the jar when it has been burned down to the last and the wax is liquid. Then your wick will probably end up next to the side of the container, trapping all the heat in one spot, cracking the jar.

Wick stick-ums are available from many suppliers, or 3M mounting tape works too, plus there are other adhesives, and I'm sure you'll be hearing more about that soon.:tiptoe:

Its secured with wax. Wick stick-ums nor hot glue work for me. Wick stick-ums just come off the glass when wax is poured. I've been making candles for 10+yrs and never had a problem this way, and I tested candles for 3-4yrs before that before even selling them.

That's because it isn't recommended to add stearic acid to NatureWax C3... now to their votive and pillar waxes (V1 and P1, respectively), the manufacturer suggests adding stearic up to 10%, but NOT to C3.

Oil droplets when burning is not necessarily an indicator of overwicking. What it means is that the oil is being forced out of the wax. This can happen for many reasons. If you are having this problem with both 464 AND C3, the cause may be related to your technique (the temp at which the FO is added; how long and well the wax is stirred after adding FO) rather than a problem with the wax. It's also possible that there is a problem with the FO you are using. When the seasons change - both from cold to warm and from warm to cold - syneresis is a common complaint as well as wet spots on containers. Soy waxes are very sensitive to temperature and humidity changes. I can't speak for 464, but I do know how C3 reacts. Even in the deep Gulf south here (syneresis country), I seldom see any problem with this at higher levels of FO than you are using.

Perhaps a little more information can help pinpoint the cause. To what temp did you heat both waxes? What additives and amounts did you use? Are you weighing your FO or measuring? What FOs are "seeping"? At what temp did you add the FO to the two waxes and how long did you stir? What size (diameter) container are you using and what wicks? At what temp did you pour? What's the ambient temperature where you are burning the candles? How much "seepage" are we talking about? A few droplets or a pool covering the surface of the candle?

I add my FO at around 170-180 as per CS suggestion on their website. I don't wait to pour, I usually poor enough to secure the wick that's held up by the wick pin & then let let the wax cool a bit till cloudy, stir again and then poor once I've secured the wick. By this time the wax has hardened enough to secure the wick. (I don't like glue guns or glue dots.. as I can't seem to center the wick that way) In the winter it's about 65ish generally speaking in the apartment. Where I'm burning same thing.. living room.. 65 it's a one level two bedroom apartment. And it's not just that one FO it's all of them I've tried, and from Reputable suppliers such as Ahe, NG etc. The oil droplets usually tend to cover the whole candle, tho sometimes it just around where it's burning depends on the FO. I also stir the FO for the full 2min (I time it with my stove timer) I haven't experimented with heating the jars yet tho either.

Pam, I don't... which is why I was going to try the C3 and see how good the cold throw is at my usual .5oz pp.

I have used NatureWax C3 for many years. It has a good hot throw and cold throw. It does not need stearic acid nor beeswax and often misbehaves when either is added. One can either use it from the box or with some added USA (1 Tbsp. per pound). I use 1 oz. FO PP and seldom have trouble with seepage except in certain environmental conditions (high humidity, warm weather or high humidity, cold weather).

I sure wouldn't switch soy waxes based on rumors of better COLD throw... Have you tried using 1 oz. PP in your 464?

Yes, I've tried upping to 1oz pp. I seem to get a better cold throw, but I get terrible seepage when burning even after curing for almost a month. (Oil droplets when burning.. so the wick is too hot at 1oz pp). I haven't tried different wicks at 1oz pp though. I suppose I could try that. I've used both CDN's Cd's and Eco's in 464, and the Eco's tend to work really well for me. Also when upping to 1oz pp, some scents seem to be way too strong burning at 1oz pp.

I'm not "switching" just yet.. I'm just playing around and testing. I will not switch again unless I know for sure the wax will be the right fit.

Alright... I read most of the previous threads on this wax (at least the ones I can find with the new search feature.. can't find any new posts.. 2010) At what percentage do I start adding 3%? I can't seem to find that info.

I'm pretty happy with 464, which is the wax I currently use, but I love testing new waxes to see if I can find something better and I heard C3 has an incredable cold throw (something my 464 is lacking a bit in.. even with the stronger fragrances). So I brought 10lb of it to play with. I can't seem to go up more than .5oz per lb of wax without getting seepage when burning and that's with adding beeswax/stearic. And at .5oz per lb of wax, it gives an amazing hot throw so that's a plus.

KY warehouse was GREAT!!! And even better since I'm in KY. Never once had a single problem when I got it from KY, but, had MANY problems just about every order when they closed that one. I've moved on to other suppliers. I always end up missing something when I am making an order. I'll forget about something when I place an order and not even realize it till I get my order and then I must smack the forehead and say DUH!!!

Yup.. I do that too lol. I wish I could get Candle/Wax/Wicks all in one place and I useto when I ordered from CS.. but now that they stopped carring my jars..sigh.

I still may entertain the idea of switching jars.. but I don't think my customers would be too thrilled since the ones I'm thinking, i'd have to rase my prices... and I already changed jars about a year and half a go after a year of testing before they hit the market, and the launch of the new website.. Maybe I'll pick up a case and send them to testers and see what they think if they'd go with the website design, and my over all theme.

Alabaster only ships from Alabama now as they closed the KY warehouse over a year ago or so. It's the Alabama warehouse that all the problems you've seen were from.

Ahhhh thanks.. I couldn't remember if it was KY or Al.. but they were out of stock anyway so I ended up ordering from Peak.. I'll just be a day or two late on shipment and will email the customer today letting them know when the order will ship. I know Peak will at least ship my order out today so I should get it Thursday... sometimes I get it a day before.. but that hasn't happened for quite a while. I don't know how I missed I needed another case ugh I'm pretty good with inventory.

Lonestar has them

http://www.lonestarcandlesupply.com/products/candlecontainers_victorian-jar-12.7oz.html

How long is shipping from TX to WI? I forgot... it's been a while since I ordered anything from a supplier in Tx...

That's one of the reasons I can't order from Peaks this time.(normally I plan my orders ahead but some reason I thought I had another case here)... It usually takes 4 days for shipping when I order from Peaks, I kinda need them a bit sooner then that... lol.

Okay looks like either Pa or Tx is gonna be three days.. hmmmm you'd think Pa would be quicker lol.

and lonestar says it's out of stock.. soooo looks like Pa it is..

Okay apparently 3-4 days processing time.. ugh, scratches Candles and supplies out. How's Taylor Concept these days? They have the jar in stock too... and it would be three days shipping to me, too.. but it looks like their website hasn't been updated since 2010? I checked out their top 20 fragrance oils and it only lists them from November 2010?

Anyone know other than Midwest Candle Supply, Peaks and Alabaster that carries this jar? It's getting harder and harder to find. Candle Science use to carry it, and when I changed jars a few years ago, I got it from them because I could also get my wax from them within three days. Candlemakers store use to have the 12oz size too now they only have 9oz. I really don't want to change jars again.. and to think of all the testing ARG!

I was looking for someplace close to me(Wi) Candle Cocoon also no longer has that jar which was in Madison.. Alabaster is in KY but I heard they aren't doing so well in shipping stuff lately.. maybe it's just the wax part? I suppose I could call on Monday and ask.. and there is nooooooooooooooo way in heck I'm ordering from Midwest Candle Supply.

Ohhh, I just found Candles and supplies in Pa.. I had forgotten about them...

Hmmmm... well like I said, it's not tunneling, so that's a good sign I think at least. I really hate to switch waxes because I really like this one.

I've been using GB 464 for well over 3yrs now, usually get it from Candle science along with Eco wicks. I noticed this time around however the Eco wicks were stiffer then from previous purchases.

Well, now I'm getting a small crack around the wick when burning. It's a bit down further from the wick. I've never had this happen in all three years that I've been using this combo of wax/wicks. So far it doesn't seem to be tunneling. Would it be the wick is too hot for the wax? I was using CDN's but switched to Eco wicks because seem to burn more consistent tthen CDN's for GB 464.

I've posted a picture what it looks like. I blew the wick out because I couldn't take a decent pick of it while burning.

Not sure if this is your company as well but there is already a company name that has yours that sells candle supplies.

http://www.palmbeachcandles.com/

Did you use mold release spray? Or Powder that you also melt w/ the wax to help release from the mold?

I haven't had this in a long time, and can't find my notes on it. I'm making a pillar order, used my normal wax load/steric and wax. Let it cool. (Btw, making rustics) and when I unmold them, they have what looks like pinholes/dots on waxes. I'm remelting..but can't for the life of me remember what they are from? I tried doing a search, and couldn't find any answers, unless i'm searching the wrong terms...

TIA

kathy

I am using 4045H. Normally I don't have an issue with wicking, however i'm trying my hand at a three wick pillar. i know flat out 24inch flat braid (what I normally use) will blow out the candle. I do have square braid wicks.. what other wicks can I try?

thanks